If I may give you some feedback so you don't feel like you blew a bunch of money on an airbrush you're not happy with...
1. Whenever starting a new job, don't start on your project! Spray onto some cardboard or junk plastic (milk jug as an example) so get the brush dialed in before going to your model.
2. Put a drop of dish soap in your mixture. You've got a pretty bad surface tension problem that you need to fix. That's what's causing the odd spray pattern.
3. The paint isn't close to drying as it hits the model. You need to get the mixture more volatile. I don't have a lot of experience spraying Valjeo, but at least with Tamiya, adding some rubbing alcohol drys out the mixture and gets rid of the excess 'wetness'.
4. Have you ever torn down your brush and really cleaned it? Are you sure the needle isn't sticking?
Nobody wants to see a modeler get frustrated. Best of luck!
Campaigns
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The Marine Corps Campaign ( Official Thread )
pseudorealityx
Joined: January 31, 2010
KitMaker: 2,191 posts
Armorama: 1,814 posts
Posted: Tuesday, December 20, 2011 - 05:40 PM UTC
Buckeye198
Joined: May 02, 2010
KitMaker: 596 posts
Armorama: 265 posts
Posted: Tuesday, December 20, 2011 - 06:48 PM UTC
Hey Jesse, thanks for the advice. Ready for my counterattacks? 
1. I am sure not to begin spraying on the subject, but the "good sprays" seem to always be right when I begin, so I try to move on as soon as possible. Crappy excuse, I know, but if I always wait, then I'd never get any spraying done!
2. I assume that only works for acrylics? I should not add dish soap to enamels? Not that I would need to...I've never experienced a pattern like that with enamels anyway.
3. That's a good idea. Would isopropyl also act as a thinner in this case? If so, that could help me out tremendously...thinning while reducing moisture!
4. The needle does not stick. I have cleaned it out pretty thoroughly, though I was having problems like this as soon as I opened the brand new AB. That really shook my confidence in it and it's been downhill ever since.
I really appreciate the help, from you and everyone else too. I'm sorry if my ranting gets too frequent or repetitive, but it's just so confusing trying to figure out why I seem to be the only one with this issue!
1. I am sure not to begin spraying on the subject, but the "good sprays" seem to always be right when I begin, so I try to move on as soon as possible. Crappy excuse, I know, but if I always wait, then I'd never get any spraying done!
2. I assume that only works for acrylics? I should not add dish soap to enamels? Not that I would need to...I've never experienced a pattern like that with enamels anyway.
3. That's a good idea. Would isopropyl also act as a thinner in this case? If so, that could help me out tremendously...thinning while reducing moisture!
4. The needle does not stick. I have cleaned it out pretty thoroughly, though I was having problems like this as soon as I opened the brand new AB. That really shook my confidence in it and it's been downhill ever since.
I really appreciate the help, from you and everyone else too. I'm sorry if my ranting gets too frequent or repetitive, but it's just so confusing trying to figure out why I seem to be the only one with this issue!
Buckeye198
Joined: May 02, 2010
KitMaker: 596 posts
Armorama: 265 posts
Posted: Tuesday, December 20, 2011 - 06:57 PM UTC
You know, here's a thought. I spray in the garage, and it's been in roughly the mid-40's and 50's lately. I know that that can cause problems with airflow, but would that affect either the paint adhering to plastic or the paint flow? Would my troubles go away if I bought myself a spray box for the holidays and painted indoors?
vertigo
Joined: November 11, 2004
KitMaker: 388 posts
Armorama: 113 posts
Posted: Tuesday, December 20, 2011 - 09:50 PM UTC
If I could offer a small tip about Vallejo paints; I've never used Model Air but I've been brush painting Model Color for a while now and I've found that Vallejo paints will not adhere to bare plastic, they'll come off with the slightest rub.
But if you put down a coat of primer first they adhere very well. I don't know anything about airbrushes I'm afraid so I can't offer any advice on the problem there.
But if you put down a coat of primer first they adhere very well. I don't know anything about airbrushes I'm afraid so I can't offer any advice on the problem there.
pseudorealityx
Joined: January 31, 2010
KitMaker: 2,191 posts
Armorama: 1,814 posts
Posted: Wednesday, December 21, 2011 - 01:55 AM UTC
Quoted Text
You know, here's a thought. I spray in the garage, and it's been in roughly the mid-40's and 50's lately. I know that that can cause problems with airflow, but would that affect either the paint adhering to plastic or the paint flow? Would my troubles go away if I bought myself a spray box for the holidays and painted indoors?
I spray in my garage as well. I actually find it easier to airbrush in the cooler weather because it's less humid, so I run into less issues like you're seeing. Not the adhesion, but the puddles, and paint not drying.
pseudorealityx
Joined: January 31, 2010
KitMaker: 2,191 posts
Armorama: 1,814 posts
Posted: Wednesday, December 21, 2011 - 02:01 AM UTC
Quoted Text
Hey Jesse, thanks for the advice. Ready for my counterattacks?
1. I am sure not to begin spraying on the subject, but the "good sprays" seem to always be right when I begin, so I try to move on as soon as possible. Crappy excuse, I know, but if I always wait, then I'd never get any spraying done!
With many acrylics, you can get tip clogging. Once it's clogged, you have to pull the trigger back further to get paint, and that can definitely cause puddles to show up like your photo... Have a stack of Q-tips handy that you can dip in thinner and then rub the needle point gently to get rid of build-up. You may have to do this pretty often.
2. I assume that only works for acrylics? I should not add dish soap to enamels? Not that I would need to...I've never experienced a pattern like that with enamels anyway.
The dish soap is for anytime you use water. Water has a lot of surface tension, which is what the dish soap fixes. It lets the water "flatten out" easier on the subject, rather than bubble up.
3. That's a good idea. Would isopropyl also act as a thinner in this case? If so, that could help me out tremendously...thinning while reducing moisture!
Yup, works as a thinner too. I use it with Tamiya paints all the time. If the paint is coming out too wet, I use alcohol. If it's coming out too dry, a couple drops of water makes the solution dry slower.
4. The needle does not stick. I have cleaned it out pretty thoroughly, though I was having problems like this as soon as I opened the brand new AB. That really shook my confidence in it and it's been downhill ever since.
I really appreciate the help, from you and everyone else too. I'm sorry if my ranting gets too frequent or repetitive, but it's just so confusing trying to figure out why I seem to be the only one with this issue!
Understood about the frustration. See my responses above in bold. Good luck!
Providing photos of the results really helps people to diagnose the problem.
I've actually got some Valjeo I need to spray in the near future, so when I get it to, I'll try and remember what I do that works vs. doesn't work.
melonhead
Joined: July 29, 2010
KitMaker: 662 posts
Armorama: 457 posts
Posted: Wednesday, December 21, 2011 - 12:58 PM UTC
although, i have never used valejo myself, i would have to agree that there is probably something more causing the issue. From the looks of the photo, it seems that there is too much thinnner. Mainly because you stated that if you dont thin it enough, it wont come out at all.
i was having a similary issue but it was because the nozzle was clogged. it also caused bubbles in the cup. so, you may want to check for that the next time you spray.
it it happens when you change paint types, there is definately an issue with the brush. But, the brush should work even if it is cheap. mine is a cheapy as well and works fine if i keep it maintained.
i was having a similary issue but it was because the nozzle was clogged. it also caused bubbles in the cup. so, you may want to check for that the next time you spray.
it it happens when you change paint types, there is definately an issue with the brush. But, the brush should work even if it is cheap. mine is a cheapy as well and works fine if i keep it maintained.
ltb073
Joined: March 08, 2010
KitMaker: 3,662 posts
Armorama: 3,078 posts
Posted: Wednesday, December 21, 2011 - 01:07 PM UTC
Hi All, this will be my entry for this campaign that I hope to start over my Christmas vacation
I read somewhere that these 4 digit Italeri kits are actually re-boxed old Dragon kits, can anyone confirm that
I read somewhere that these 4 digit Italeri kits are actually re-boxed old Dragon kits, can anyone confirm that
Buckeye198
Joined: May 02, 2010
KitMaker: 596 posts
Armorama: 265 posts
Posted: Wednesday, December 21, 2011 - 06:34 PM UTC
Jesse(s): Rebuttals, Vol II
1. While this is a good habit to get into and I will certainly take a stack of them over to my airbrush area, I'm actually not sure if this is the problem. I started another thread for my AB troubles, and I described one of the odd occurrences like this. Let's see what you think about it:
"I noticed that the only way that paint came out was if I started the air flow, pulled the trigger all the way back (still no paint flow though), then with the air flow still going, pushing the trigger forward. I guess that this caused the needle to push a tiny drop of paint into the air flow and get a faint split-second color burst. That being the case, I don't know if the needle is the problem. Wouldn't that process still be impossible with a clogged needle?"
2. Another idea to put into the tryout-bank!
And while we're suggesting things to spray, what about using Future to thin? I've read a few people use that instead of thinner/isoprop/water/etc.
3. That sounds easy enough. I should really get some medicine droppers to help me out with all these drop-wise additions. Also, this raises another question: do you mix your paints in the color cup? I've usually been doing this, since I feel like mixing in an external container and pouring in would result in most of the paint ending up still in the container and not making it into the cup. Any thoughts here?
I know that any time I spray, plain water/isoprop/thinner/etc will go effortlessly, but not the paint. And though there is no paint spray (I held sheets of paper in front of the AB...no coloring), there also are no bubbles in the cup. So when I sit down to really think about the problem, this one gets me all the time. What's the diagnosis now?
Again, sorry for turning this thread into "Airbrushes For The Lobotomized," but I really appreciate the help you all are giving me. This is why I love the KM network!
1. While this is a good habit to get into and I will certainly take a stack of them over to my airbrush area, I'm actually not sure if this is the problem. I started another thread for my AB troubles, and I described one of the odd occurrences like this. Let's see what you think about it:
"I noticed that the only way that paint came out was if I started the air flow, pulled the trigger all the way back (still no paint flow though), then with the air flow still going, pushing the trigger forward. I guess that this caused the needle to push a tiny drop of paint into the air flow and get a faint split-second color burst. That being the case, I don't know if the needle is the problem. Wouldn't that process still be impossible with a clogged needle?"
2. Another idea to put into the tryout-bank!
And while we're suggesting things to spray, what about using Future to thin? I've read a few people use that instead of thinner/isoprop/water/etc.3. That sounds easy enough. I should really get some medicine droppers to help me out with all these drop-wise additions. Also, this raises another question: do you mix your paints in the color cup? I've usually been doing this, since I feel like mixing in an external container and pouring in would result in most of the paint ending up still in the container and not making it into the cup. Any thoughts here?
I know that any time I spray, plain water/isoprop/thinner/etc will go effortlessly, but not the paint. And though there is no paint spray (I held sheets of paper in front of the AB...no coloring), there also are no bubbles in the cup. So when I sit down to really think about the problem, this one gets me all the time. What's the diagnosis now?
Again, sorry for turning this thread into "Airbrushes For The Lobotomized," but I really appreciate the help you all are giving me. This is why I love the KM network!
Buckeye198
Joined: May 02, 2010
KitMaker: 596 posts
Armorama: 265 posts
Posted: Wednesday, December 21, 2011 - 06:41 PM UTC
Oh and Sal, from what I've read the kit you have IS a rebox, but not Dragon...it's from Italeri's "M4A3 Late Sherman w/Calliope," box number 288. Sorry to burst your bubble there, but it should still be a pretty solid piece!
steph2102
Joined: April 23, 2011
KitMaker: 735 posts
Armorama: 606 posts
Posted: Friday, December 23, 2011 - 06:46 PM UTC
Hello, someone could tell me if the USMC use the Bantam BRC 40.
thank you steph
thank you steph
Buckeye198
Joined: May 02, 2010
KitMaker: 596 posts
Armorama: 265 posts
Posted: Friday, December 23, 2011 - 07:51 PM UTC
Quoted Text
Hello, someone could tell me if the USMC use the Bantam BRC 40.
thank you steph
Hey Steph. I would say no. According to olive-drab.com, it sounds like Bantam started the idea and general design for the scout car, produced a few thousand BRC-40's in 1941, before US involvement, mainly for lend-lease to the UK and USSR but some for US Army testing and trials. Meanwhile, Willys and Ford also started producing recon car designs, and in the Fall of 1941, when it was obvious that the US would be dragged into the conflict, the Willys design won the bid, Ford manufactured them, and Bantam got left in the dust.
Bottom line, although I can't find any evidence to say conclusively that the Devil Dogs did NOT use the BRC-40, there's no evidence to say that they did either.
steph2102
Joined: April 23, 2011
KitMaker: 735 posts
Armorama: 606 posts
Posted: Friday, December 23, 2011 - 08:53 PM UTC
thanks, your answer robby. so I'll start a willys.steph
Buckeye198
Joined: May 02, 2010
KitMaker: 596 posts
Armorama: 265 posts
Posted: Friday, December 23, 2011 - 09:18 PM UTC
Sounds like the safest bet...glad I could help!
ZloyZebr
Joined: February 03, 2009
KitMaker: 14 posts
Armorama: 13 posts
Posted: Saturday, December 24, 2011 - 08:02 PM UTC
Hello to all!
I`m make for this campaign PT-76B amphibious tank . One and only tank in soviet naval infantry.
Merry Xmas
I`m make for this campaign PT-76B amphibious tank . One and only tank in soviet naval infantry.
Merry Xmas
steph2102
Joined: April 23, 2011
KitMaker: 735 posts
Armorama: 606 posts
Posted: Monday, December 26, 2011 - 08:33 AM UTC
hello, here is my entry with the tamiya jeep.
steph
steph
ltb073
Joined: March 08, 2010
KitMaker: 3,662 posts
Armorama: 3,078 posts
Posted: Monday, December 26, 2011 - 03:39 PM UTC
Hi Guys, as Robby said it was a decent kit, well better then the last Italeri kit i built 
lets just hope it turns out as nice 
I stated building Christmas eve OOB while diner was cooking and I got the boggies completed
then sat and built all day while Christmas company was over
For those that dont know me my work bench is in between my kitchen and dinning room so while everybody was eating and drinking i was drinking and building
and next thing I know
its built mostly the wood planks I will add after painting it was primed today and I should get a coat of OD on it tomorrow
lets just hope it turns out as nice I stated building Christmas eve OOB while diner was cooking and I got the boggies completed
then sat and built all day while Christmas company was over
For those that dont know me my work bench is in between my kitchen and dinning room so while everybody was eating and drinking i was drinking and building
and next thing I know
its built mostly the wood planks I will add after painting it was primed today and I should get a coat of OD on it tomorrow
AgentG
Joined: December 21, 2008
KitMaker: 1,109 posts
Armorama: 1,095 posts
Posted: Monday, December 26, 2011 - 06:14 PM UTC
Holy Moly LT, that was one quick build!
I need one of those kits for that water tank on the engine deck. I'll cast them as needed then.
I'm switching up and building the DML M4A2 Late I've had for a few years now. It will be a tank on Peleliu.
In the box photos taken tonight, so I'll post pics and begin tomorrow.
G
I need one of those kits for that water tank on the engine deck. I'll cast them as needed then.
I'm switching up and building the DML M4A2 Late I've had for a few years now. It will be a tank on Peleliu.
In the box photos taken tonight, so I'll post pics and begin tomorrow.
G
windysean
Joined: September 11, 2009
KitMaker: 1,917 posts
Armorama: 735 posts
Posted: Tuesday, December 27, 2011 - 03:55 AM UTC
Quoted Text
Hello to all!
I`m make for this campaign PT-76B amphibious tank . One and only tank in soviet naval infantry.
Merry Xmas
I really like that idea. The Willys jeep and wood-uparmored Sherman too.
I'm excited to have gotten my Mercedes for Christmas, to convert into a USMC IFAV. Two or three more campaigns to wrap up, but each is very close!
-Sean H.
ZloyZebr
Joined: February 03, 2009
KitMaker: 14 posts
Armorama: 13 posts
Posted: Tuesday, December 27, 2011 - 06:42 AM UTC
Continue making pt-76. Ready for primer today.
AgentG
Joined: December 21, 2008
KitMaker: 1,109 posts
Armorama: 1,095 posts
Posted: Tuesday, December 27, 2011 - 08:31 AM UTC
Here we go!
The beginnings of an M4A2 Late model on Peleliu.
G
The beginnings of an M4A2 Late model on Peleliu.
G
melonhead
Joined: July 29, 2010
KitMaker: 662 posts
Armorama: 457 posts
Posted: Tuesday, December 27, 2011 - 05:18 PM UTC
the base completed-
Buckeye198
Joined: May 02, 2010
KitMaker: 596 posts
Armorama: 265 posts
Posted: Tuesday, December 27, 2011 - 07:09 PM UTC
Back after a nice time away to collect my thoughts. Tried the Airbrush From Hell again with some of the advice I got over the forums. Thanks again, but still no joy. Here are the pictures so I can show you guys what's going on.
The left half of this shot is Vallejo thinned with rubbing alcohol. At least it adhered to the primer (reliable Testors enamel spraycan), but it looks like it sprays in GIANT flakes, which is how every Vallejo color I bought seems to dry, assuming it will spray at all and stick to the model, which is a very rare occurrence.
In the middle is Vallejo thinned with distilled water and a drop of dish soap. It sprayed okay, but as you can see, the paint is freckled pretty severely. There is absolutely NO evenness to the coats it lays down and the overspray is tremendous; as I sprayed over that little circle, the paint reached and passed the rightmost post (an air vent maybe? Sorry I don't know the complete anatomy of an AAVP
).
The leftmost spray in this shot is by far the best spray I've gotten from the Revolution, but frankly that single patch is not worth the time, money, effort, effect on my blood pressure, etc. to me. On the right is where I tried that "rocker-trigger" technique I talked about earlier. Again, an uneven coat that would take forever to sloppily cover that hatch, let alone the entire freaking model.
A quick comparison shot: in the foreground is a Yak-1B, handpainted with Testors enamels. In the middle is a BTR-70 sprayed with Testors enamels using a single-action siphon-feed Badger brush. In the back is my truly fantastic AAVP-7A1 with its abomination of a paint job using Vallejo acrylics through an Iwata Revolution. If I can find the patience to make masks for the AAVP, then I'll probably break out the Badger and spray the Toxic-Testors, otherwise I'd like to take a stab at handpainting again. Maybe Vallejo's Model Air can be handpainted, since it obviously isn't meant to be sprayed.
The left half of this shot is Vallejo thinned with rubbing alcohol. At least it adhered to the primer (reliable Testors enamel spraycan), but it looks like it sprays in GIANT flakes, which is how every Vallejo color I bought seems to dry, assuming it will spray at all and stick to the model, which is a very rare occurrence.
In the middle is Vallejo thinned with distilled water and a drop of dish soap. It sprayed okay, but as you can see, the paint is freckled pretty severely. There is absolutely NO evenness to the coats it lays down and the overspray is tremendous; as I sprayed over that little circle, the paint reached and passed the rightmost post (an air vent maybe? Sorry I don't know the complete anatomy of an AAVP
).The leftmost spray in this shot is by far the best spray I've gotten from the Revolution, but frankly that single patch is not worth the time, money, effort, effect on my blood pressure, etc. to me. On the right is where I tried that "rocker-trigger" technique I talked about earlier. Again, an uneven coat that would take forever to sloppily cover that hatch, let alone the entire freaking model.
A quick comparison shot: in the foreground is a Yak-1B, handpainted with Testors enamels. In the middle is a BTR-70 sprayed with Testors enamels using a single-action siphon-feed Badger brush. In the back is my truly fantastic AAVP-7A1 with its abomination of a paint job using Vallejo acrylics through an Iwata Revolution. If I can find the patience to make masks for the AAVP, then I'll probably break out the Badger and spray the Toxic-Testors, otherwise I'd like to take a stab at handpainting again. Maybe Vallejo's Model Air can be handpainted, since it obviously isn't meant to be sprayed.
Buckeye198
Joined: May 02, 2010
KitMaker: 596 posts
Armorama: 265 posts
Posted: Wednesday, December 28, 2011 - 06:51 PM UTC
I decided to handpaint my AAV and bypass all of the hardships due to my ignorance of airbrushes. I didn't want to wast my Vallejo's so I'm using them, but I guess I'm still not proficient at using acrylics in any setting. I do have a few questions, but since a picture is worth a thousand words, here are my shots to share.
I can paint along wide, flat surfaces just fine, but when the model gets textured, it seems as though the paint doesn't want to cover the edges (look at the protruding bars and no-slip texture). I've never had an issue like that for enamels, so what causes it, and how do I prevent it?
Similarly, I'm having issues painting the two grids towards the bow of the AAV. Because of the issue I described above, the paint doesn't seem to flow into the corners and edges of the grids nor on the frame tops. Notice, though, that only the green appears to be having this problem; the brown paint "congealed" better than the green and was able to stay in one place and resist flowing as well as stick to vertical surfaces and into crevices.
Green-paint mishaps aside, this is looking mighty fine now So my new question of the day is as follows: is there a way to thicken paint? Vallejo Medium Green may now be both unbrushable as well as unsprayable right out of the bottle for me. Oy...
I can paint along wide, flat surfaces just fine, but when the model gets textured, it seems as though the paint doesn't want to cover the edges (look at the protruding bars and no-slip texture). I've never had an issue like that for enamels, so what causes it, and how do I prevent it?
Similarly, I'm having issues painting the two grids towards the bow of the AAV. Because of the issue I described above, the paint doesn't seem to flow into the corners and edges of the grids nor on the frame tops. Notice, though, that only the green appears to be having this problem; the brown paint "congealed" better than the green and was able to stay in one place and resist flowing as well as stick to vertical surfaces and into crevices.
Green-paint mishaps aside, this is looking mighty fine now
So my new question of the day is as follows: is there a way to thicken paint? Vallejo Medium Green may now be both unbrushable as well as unsprayable right out of the bottle for me. Oy...
grayghost666
#021
Joined: August 02, 2007
KitMaker: 2,458 posts
Armorama: 656 posts
KitMaker: 2,458 posts
Armorama: 656 posts
Posted: Wednesday, December 28, 2011 - 11:56 PM UTC
Hello Robby,
I live above 6,000 feet and it gets cold fast up here, Did your acrylic paint get cold or do you store/paint it in a cold area? I have had problems with acrylic paints and some glues that have gotten cold and I had to replace them. I even had them turn bad if I order them in the Winter so I always order acrylic paints/glue in the summer and store them in a very warm space ( my furnace area ).
Just a guess,
Cheers,
Bruce
I live above 6,000 feet and it gets cold fast up here, Did your acrylic paint get cold or do you store/paint it in a cold area? I have had problems with acrylic paints and some glues that have gotten cold and I had to replace them. I even had them turn bad if I order them in the Winter so I always order acrylic paints/glue in the summer and store them in a very warm space ( my furnace area ).
Just a guess,
Cheers,
Bruce
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