Here is the answer to the winch question. My Military TM on the White has nothing about the winch but somehow the Tankograd publication still had this reproduction photo none-the-less.
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White 666 Semi-Tractor
165thspc
#521
Joined: April 13, 2011
KitMaker: 9,465 posts
Armorama: 8,695 posts
Posted: Tuesday, September 08, 2015 - 04:28 PM UTC
WOW, thanks for all the comments and info during the night!
Here is the answer to the winch question. My Military TM on the White has nothing about the winch but somehow the Tankograd publication still had this reproduction photo none-the-less.
Here is the answer to the winch question. My Military TM on the White has nothing about the winch but somehow the Tankograd publication still had this reproduction photo none-the-less.
165thspc
#521
Joined: April 13, 2011
KitMaker: 9,465 posts
Armorama: 8,695 posts
Posted: Tuesday, September 08, 2015 - 04:29 PM UTC
Sorry I added the toe-out on my front wheels but no camber!
M4A1Sherman
Joined: May 02, 2013
KitMaker: 4,403 posts
Armorama: 4,078 posts
Posted: Wednesday, September 09, 2015 - 02:19 PM UTC
Quoted Text
Thanks guys! Back home again now, feeling much better. Still have a small drain installed where my gall bladder used to be. Also I am now on a ten day regimen of out-patient visits to an Infection Clinic for IV antibiotics every day.
I can empathize with you, Mike- I had to have my gall bladder removed back in the winter of '92. Three holes in my belly, complications with prostatitis, and a month down before I could go back to work... The doctors told me that I'd be in and out of the hospital in three days. Umm, yeah...
M4A1Sherman
Joined: May 02, 2013
KitMaker: 4,403 posts
Armorama: 4,078 posts
Posted: Wednesday, September 09, 2015 - 02:21 PM UTC
Quoted Text
Could still do a covered .50 which to me makes more sense - (but it wouldn't look near as nice!)
Besides, I've done the covered version of the .50 cal already!
Referring to your photo of the "covered" .50- I've used the same resin "covered" .50 on several of my builds. it's a good little piece, and I think it lends a nice "candid" touch to any US/Allied model mounting a .50...
I really LIKE your Mack No!!! Still haven't started mine. Maybe you remember me mentioning it to you quite a while ago... That's a project for the future...
M4A1Sherman
Joined: May 02, 2013
KitMaker: 4,403 posts
Armorama: 4,078 posts
Posted: Wednesday, September 09, 2015 - 02:31 PM UTC
Quoted Text
Sorry I added the toe-out on my front wheels but no camber!
Hi, Mike! In looking at the photo of your steering assembly, several pages ago, and looking from underneath the axle, before you added your Toe-out on turns, it looks like you might even have a bit of NEGATIVE Camber. If you're REALLY careful, you might be able to bend (VERY GENTLY and CAREFULLY) your axles by exerting pressure inwards at the bottom of your tires in order to give your White a bit of Positive Camber- Up to you, of course...
165thspc
#521
Joined: April 13, 2011
KitMaker: 9,465 posts
Armorama: 8,695 posts
Posted: Thursday, September 10, 2015 - 04:51 AM UTC
If this were a Model A truck or an Opel Blitz with thin front axles I might try to torque the camber a little but the front axle on the White is massive. If I were to try and bend some camber into that axle I am fairly sure something would break!
Also the large ball style CV joints make the spindles inaccessible so there is no option to tweek the camber there either. As I say the front axle structure on the White is massive!
Also the large ball style CV joints make the spindles inaccessible so there is no option to tweek the camber there either. As I say the front axle structure on the White is massive!
165thspc
#521
Joined: April 13, 2011
KitMaker: 9,465 posts
Armorama: 8,695 posts
Posted: Thursday, September 10, 2015 - 05:38 AM UTC
The revised cable end for the Tulsa winch.
M4A1Sherman
Joined: May 02, 2013
KitMaker: 4,403 posts
Armorama: 4,078 posts
Posted: Thursday, September 10, 2015 - 03:11 PM UTC
Quoted Text
If this were a Model A truck or an Opel Blitz with thin front axles I might try to torque the camber a little but the front axle on the White is massive. If I were to try and bend some camber into that axle I am fairly sure something would break!
Meant to say "Spindles" instead of the axles themselves. Anyway, the Positive Camber is not that noticeable, especially when there are fenders in the way of seeing it... I take care of all that stuff as I'm building the front suspension assembly, and make my "adjustments" accordingly. Saves headaches later on...
jrutman
Joined: April 10, 2011
KitMaker: 7,941 posts
Armorama: 7,934 posts
Posted: Thursday, September 10, 2015 - 05:54 PM UTC
Really nice work going on here and a very cool subject!!! Can't believe I missed it.
J
J
165thspc
#521
Joined: April 13, 2011
KitMaker: 9,465 posts
Armorama: 8,695 posts
Posted: Saturday, September 12, 2015 - 05:49 AM UTC
Going to need some air brake glad hands for the White (and the trailer) very shortly. These metal castings are actually intended as O Scale (1/48th) model railroad details. (Getting the angle cocks as well is just an extra bonus.)
The source for these great metal castings is Wiseman Model Products available on eBay or check them out at:
http://wisemanmodelservices.com/
The source for these great metal castings is Wiseman Model Products available on eBay or check them out at:
http://wisemanmodelservices.com/
165thspc
#521
Joined: April 13, 2011
KitMaker: 9,465 posts
Armorama: 8,695 posts
Posted: Saturday, September 12, 2015 - 07:41 PM UTC
Gino/HeavyArty in a related blog mentioned the glad hands offered by Shapeways - I must admit they are very impressive! However given the small size of the part in question AND the high quality of the Wiseman metal castings I already have in my possession I think I am going to stay with them. (Not to mention the very modest price of the Wiseman parts.)
p.s. Here is a rendition of the Shapeway part. Their glad hands are so perfect they look like they would actually connect together if needed. Outstanding!
Learn more about these high quality digital parts and many others at the Shapeways site:
http://www.shapeways.com/product/UDFYMRSYN/air-brake-gladhands-1-35-scale?li=search-results-1&optionId=56711621
p.s. Here is a rendition of the Shapeway part. Their glad hands are so perfect they look like they would actually connect together if needed. Outstanding!
Learn more about these high quality digital parts and many others at the Shapeways site:
http://www.shapeways.com/product/UDFYMRSYN/air-brake-gladhands-1-35-scale?li=search-results-1&optionId=56711621
165thspc
#521
Joined: April 13, 2011
KitMaker: 9,465 posts
Armorama: 8,695 posts
Posted: Sunday, September 13, 2015 - 10:34 PM UTC
Anyone have any info on how to pose/attach/display the brake cables and glad hands on the pre-Sterling modified White semi-tractor?
Unfortunately the one easy to find photo is of the Sterling modification and they seem to have just piped the air lines up to the top of that tool box (or whatever it is) and put fixed glad hands there.
I am considering just running piping up the back side of the cab wall to two fixed glad hands but that would force the operator to get to them by reaching over the winch. I have a feeling that was NOT how it was done?????
Unfortunately the one easy to find photo is of the Sterling modification and they seem to have just piped the air lines up to the top of that tool box (or whatever it is) and put fixed glad hands there.
I am considering just running piping up the back side of the cab wall to two fixed glad hands but that would force the operator to get to them by reaching over the winch. I have a feeling that was NOT how it was done?????
Frenchy
Joined: December 02, 2002
KitMaker: 12,719 posts
Armorama: 12,507 posts
Posted: Monday, September 14, 2015 - 12:54 AM UTC
I'm not sure this picture will help you much, but here it is anyway... 
H.P.
H.P.
165thspc
#521
Joined: April 13, 2011
KitMaker: 9,465 posts
Armorama: 8,695 posts
Posted: Monday, September 14, 2015 - 01:18 AM UTC
I cannot seem to find a reference as to what standard practice is or was. Did both the trailer AND the tractor have glad hands with an "extension hose" connecting between them?
Or are the tractor hoses semi-permanently attached to the tractor with only glad hands on the trailer end?????
I suspect it is the second method but do not know for sure!
It poses a problem because as of right now I do not know weather to model only hard piping and glad hands on the back of the tractor or hoses long enough to reach back to the trailer????
There ARE fixed glad hands mounted on the trailer - that much I do know!
Or are the tractor hoses semi-permanently attached to the tractor with only glad hands on the trailer end?????
I suspect it is the second method but do not know for sure!
It poses a problem because as of right now I do not know weather to model only hard piping and glad hands on the back of the tractor or hoses long enough to reach back to the trailer????
There ARE fixed glad hands mounted on the trailer - that much I do know!
HeavyArty
Joined: May 16, 2002
KitMaker: 17,694 posts
Armorama: 13,742 posts
Posted: Monday, September 14, 2015 - 01:45 AM UTC
I don't know if this helps, but the M26 tractor (same vintage, different manufacturer - Pacific Car and Foundry)had fixed glad hands on the rear bumper w/extension hoses going under the 5th wheel and up to the trailer, which also had fixed glad hands.
Frenchy
Joined: December 02, 2002
KitMaker: 12,719 posts
Armorama: 12,507 posts
Posted: Monday, September 14, 2015 - 01:53 AM UTC
Sorry for posting the same picture twice in the same thread Mike 
H.P.
H.P.
165thspc
#521
Joined: April 13, 2011
KitMaker: 9,465 posts
Armorama: 8,695 posts
Posted: Monday, September 14, 2015 - 08:55 AM UTC
No problem on the duplicate photo H.P. I was just still trying to make out any details on the brake hoses, etc.
165thspc
#521
Joined: April 13, 2011
KitMaker: 9,465 posts
Armorama: 8,695 posts
Posted: Tuesday, September 15, 2015 - 08:44 AM UTC
Finished the trailer but still a bit to go on the White semi-tractor. I should be able to finish both vehicles in time for the Dayton Model Show this weekend.
165thspc
#521
Joined: April 13, 2011
KitMaker: 9,465 posts
Armorama: 8,695 posts
Posted: Tuesday, September 15, 2015 - 08:49 AM UTC
However getting the Billdozer 100% finished by this weekend might be a challenge!
165thspc
#521
Joined: April 13, 2011
KitMaker: 9,465 posts
Armorama: 8,695 posts
Posted: Tuesday, September 15, 2015 - 08:42 PM UTC
When I ordered these lenses from SKP Model I thought I would just be using the red safety reflectors but the headlight and taillight lenses are BEAUTIFUL! They really bring a new dimension to these areas of a model.
My only complaint regarding the SKP set for the GMC Deuce and a Half is that two of the safety reflectors (parts # 7 ) should be amber and NOT red.
My only complaint regarding the SKP set for the GMC Deuce and a Half is that two of the safety reflectors (parts # 7 ) should be amber and NOT red.
165thspc
#521
Joined: April 13, 2011
KitMaker: 9,465 posts
Armorama: 8,695 posts
Posted: Wednesday, September 16, 2015 - 03:25 AM UTC
A fairly nice detail shot of how the SKP headlight lenses look installed:
As you can see they are much more realistic looking than just a clear smooth lens glued over a painted silver reflector behind. These headlight lenses start with a disk of etched metal with a grid pattern emposed upon then. Then they are chrome plated and finally a perfect drop of clear resin is allowed to harden on them to form the "glass" lens.
As you can see they are much more realistic looking than just a clear smooth lens glued over a painted silver reflector behind. These headlight lenses start with a disk of etched metal with a grid pattern emposed upon then. Then they are chrome plated and finally a perfect drop of clear resin is allowed to harden on them to form the "glass" lens.
165thspc
#521
Joined: April 13, 2011
KitMaker: 9,465 posts
Armorama: 8,695 posts
Posted: Wednesday, September 16, 2015 - 05:19 AM UTC
Above are the reshoots of the photos I promised.
165thspc
#521
Joined: April 13, 2011
KitMaker: 9,465 posts
Armorama: 8,695 posts
Posted: Friday, September 18, 2015 - 04:10 AM UTC
Archer has added a new wrinkle to their dry transfers that I didn't know about!
White dashboard with Archer gauge decals applied.
I have never been able to successfully rub an Archer Transfer directly onto a model. However when they started including the blank wet decal material with their dry transfers everything improved. I was then able to rub the transfer onto the decal paper, soak it in water and then apply it like a regular decal - but now they have a new product:
Wet Media Paper: Rub the transfer onto the mildly sticky surface of the MediaPaper, then soak the Media Paper with the transfer briefly (3 to 5 seconds) in water, wait a moment and the transfer itself will float off the Media Paper to be placed (like a decal) onto the model. Blot off the excess water, let dry completely and then clear coat over the transfers later.
Beautiful stuff, if just a little bit fiddly.
White dashboard with Archer gauge decals applied.I have never been able to successfully rub an Archer Transfer directly onto a model. However when they started including the blank wet decal material with their dry transfers everything improved. I was then able to rub the transfer onto the decal paper, soak it in water and then apply it like a regular decal - but now they have a new product:
Wet Media Paper: Rub the transfer onto the mildly sticky surface of the MediaPaper, then soak the Media Paper with the transfer briefly (3 to 5 seconds) in water, wait a moment and the transfer itself will float off the Media Paper to be placed (like a decal) onto the model. Blot off the excess water, let dry completely and then clear coat over the transfers later.
Beautiful stuff, if just a little bit fiddly.
165thspc
#521
Joined: April 13, 2011
KitMaker: 9,465 posts
Armorama: 8,695 posts
Posted: Friday, September 18, 2015 - 07:14 AM UTC
Laying down the decals: First a brush coat of Future floor wax, then position the wet decal, blot off the excess moisture and then another final coat of Future. After allowing for thorough drying, add to that an air brush coating of matte clear and you're done.
I was a total failure at proper decaling until someone taught me the Future floor wax trick!
I was a total failure at proper decaling until someone taught me the Future floor wax trick!
DocEvan
Joined: August 09, 2014
KitMaker: 180 posts
Armorama: 180 posts
Posted: Friday, September 18, 2015 - 07:14 AM UTC
it was standard then and now for the air hoses to be on the tractor, with glad hands, and couplings on the trailer to receive the glad hands. If you look at any big rig today, you'll see that the parts are essentially unchanged sine the 1940s.
Quoted Text
I cannot seem to find a reference as to what standard practice is or was. Did both the trailer AND the tractor have glad hands with an "extension hose" connecting between them?
Or are the tractor hoses semi-permanently attached to the tractor with only glad hands on the trailer end?????
I suspect it is the second method but do not know for sure!
It poses a problem because as of right now I do not know weather to model only hard piping and glad hands on the back of the tractor or hoses long enough to reach back to the trailer????
There ARE fixed glad hands mounted on the trailer - that much I do know!
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