If anyone is interested, I have put up a 1/35 set of M35A2 dome lights and I had to remove the 1/144 dio base. Turns out it was about 100% too small but unfortunately, when scaled correctly, it was way too expensive to be viable.

How about a modern "weapons pole" pintle mount such as those mounted on the bed of the HMMWV or FMTV "War Pig" and with the triangle legs?

That way, one doesn't have to buy a model kit just to swipe that one part, and one can convert their 1/35 HMMWV, FMTV, F350, Land Rover, MTVR, technical, etc. into a guntruck.

I think one would have to print many U-brackets in order to mount the 1/35 MK-19, M2HB, M240, and M249 though.

I'll take a look into it as well. Have an overall height, height of the pole and diameter of the pole?

I plan on grabbing couple these up when I return home. I'm out of pocket for week or so, which means zero progress on any builds at moment.

Sure. I had ordered a couple more designs that should ship July 12th or so. I'm also on track to becoming a sponsor of a Facebook group, which is pretty simple... I reached out to a few forums for help with the SINCGARS design. I've yet to hear back with anything that really helps. So if anyone watching this thread has experience with the some SINCGARS amplifiers and mounts or has access to them, I need your help so I can finish this model at some point. I've finished the VIC-2 pre-SINCGARS model. I just need to render it and post it. The M35A2 model I need to render.

If there's anything more anyone would like to see, I encourage you to post it.

I've recently put the scale modeling modeling away temporarily to concentrate on a cell phone case. Currently designing it as one of those "tough" cases, although I'm not sure how tough it could be.

Also, here's a rendering of the M35A2 dome light set:

Unfortunately Photobucket is screwed up so all of the links have been broken. I'll try to find out what's going on but for now you'll just have to wonder and I'll just have to be pissed off at Photobucket even more for being a useless pile of you-know-what.

Please make the dome lights clear.

Here are a couple of ideas, M125 mortar mount.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/35904172@N02/sets/72157616815866721/

periscope in clear
http://www.uni-scope.co.il/products.php?product=19

I would include Russian or any tank gun breech for that matter.

I don't think you could make helmets, but I think you could make male helmets for vacuforming.

I can't make them clear because the material Shapeways prints these in is Frosted. One trick I learned for is to put a thin layer of CA or superglue over the area you want clear. It won't make it completely clear but it makes it much more translucent.

The picture you see is gray just because that's the color I rendered it in. It's gray for visibility. If you want I could render it instead in a clear or translucent color.

Future floor clear acrylic also makes the Shapeways frosted material more clear.

Yep. And if there are print lines, I think that a good layer of Mr. Surfacer could help as well.

I finished the iPhone case model and uploaded it. Unfortunately it's over $90 I can't really do much about it.




I will be starting on a set of 1/35 flat-screen tvs I'm various sizes soon.

My LS-671 and VIC-1 sets arrived. They are stunning, they will add a level of detail to my kits that was unexplainably (by kit manufacturer) missing.

I also got my hands on a C-11291 and can begin measuring that contraption out. It will be a lot easier than that speaker was! The VIC-2 system is nearing realization.

Thank you for the comments on the sets. If you or anyone could do some "in-bag" reviews on the sets they get, I'd be grateful. I forgot that the VIC-2 pre-SINCGARS is ready, I think. I'll post up some renders of it to be judged here. Also, that 1/144 dio base is actually pretty good as a small sci-fi base. To me it looks kind of like the surface of a moon, asteroid or exoplanet.



As you can see, there are elements from the VIC-1 set not present here and the entire length has been shortened.

I also want to point out that the legs on the VIC-1 set are EXTREMELY fragile. I kept breaking some off when I handle them. I'll thicken them a bit to make them a bit more resilient. The VIC-3 legs are a bit less fragile but still break. The VIC-5 legs are by far the strongest. So far none of them have broken. Also, the engineers at Shapeways recently kicked back the VIC-3 Basic Set that someone bought. They thought the legs were too thin to print (even though that set has printed before). I've been contemplating removing that set from the storefront as the full set is also available. I think the price difference between the two is negligible and my markup (the money that I actually make; most of the money out of the price goes to Shapeways) is about the same; it's only about $4-$5.

Well, because they kicked the design back, they've set the model as "unprintable." I responded to their emails about this and I hope to have it resolved. It's printed successfully before with no problems. There's no reason for them to mark it down as unprintable.

I also just uploaded the VIC-2 pre-SINCGARS set.

I’ve checked several times but shapeways has not made it available yet.

Here are the measurements for the C-11291 SINCGARS control monitors. I still need to measure out the selector knobs and volume control knob but ran out of steam last night. If needed I can post images of the actual item. However, the components I acquired look as if they spent the last five years in the surf zone followed by feint attempts at restoration with a mallet. Good enough for basic shapes but poor for any detail markings.

Thank you. I'll get on that. I've started a s set of flat screen TVs and a set of SU-233/PVS illuminators commonly known as the Insight M3X. If you'd like to follow my Facebook page, here it is:
https://m.facebook.com/mikesmsproductions/

Picture of the M3X/SU-233/PVS set:

And if you're thinking that they are small... Well, you're right. Length of one is about 2.7 mm. These are the long rifle version, meant for such as the M4 carbine, M16, etc etc. I'll be making a pistol version soon.

Michael, I'd love to see full scale (1/1/) Russian tank marker lights - These are already available as 1/35 and 1/16 items on Shapeways so should be simple to model:

http://www.shapeways.com/product/3P9A8M3W4/1-16-t55-set-of-16-hollow-position-lights?optionId=56032018&li=marketplace

If it were produced in hollow halves people could put a USB LED type lamp inside and have a unique lamp...

Do you have any pictures of the light itself?

Also, I see that the M3X picture link is broken so here it is again:


There's also another version I made based around a cylinder. I'm testing it out to see which is cheaper than the other.

This is the cylindrical version:

It turns out that the cylinder version is cheaper by a little bit.

Something for the classic car/truck/military guys:

These horns are on all sorts of cars and trucks from the 30's thru the 80's. (The photo is of a 1948 Diamond T.) The ONLY way to correctly reproduce these complex shapes in scale IS to digitally print them!

They would be marketable in both 1/35th and 1/25th scales. (Every Mirror Models 1/35th Diamond T cargo, dump and wrecker truck out there, while very nicely detailed under the hood, still is missing two of these.*)

I do not have access to one of these horns at the moment but if interested I WILL track one down and take measurements!

Mike


Mike Koenig photo - 2015 Keeneland Concours d'Elegance, Lexington, KY. - 1948 Diamond T Pickup

*Apparently at least Diamond T had a left and a right style horn (surely with two different tones.) but making a mirror image of the horn I assume, could be easily done digitally.

Well it is definitely interesting.

Re Horns:

In 1/35th we have beautifully molded round, flat German diaphragm horns and we even have some US full trumpet style horns in both 1/35 and 1/25 but no one, not even the model car manufacturers, do these horns correctly!

Due to the limits of injection mold making, the stubby, tri-form trumpet part of these horns are almost always molded solid leaving the model car builder to try and drill and carve out the trumpet tube or just accept them as is.


German horn seen below truck bumper. Tamiya makes a beautiful one in 1/35th plastic b/c it is easy to mold.
(Mike Koenig Photo)

Re Horns:

Fair warning; the underside of the horn is much more complex as in this set of restored Sparton Roadblasters:


Since this detail is on the underside I would not care if it were greatly simplified but it might matter a lot to others as these horns could be mounted in almost any position.

You may notice the horn on the left is marked "LO" and the one on the right says "HI". They were intended to harmonize but often one would go out and then your car would become either be a "squeaker" or a "bass boy".