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StuG.III Ausf.G Late Production Dec.1944

Brushes to the forefront

Now that we've got all the sub-assemblies done, it's time for some more painting; as I mentioned earlier, I paint as I go wherever possible. I'm using Vallejo paints and primers, and both Model Color and Game Color with the exception of testing AK Grey Primer for the interior and a few repair coats (AK's grey covers better than Vallejo's and is sandable). If you've never used acrylics, or think they don't work well, let's go over a few basics first.

There seems to be a misconception that you need to prime with a solvent based paint, or to base coat from a spray can etc., to get the acrylics to stick. This is not true. While it is true that solvent based paints will stick to bare plastic more easily, acrylics will do just fine on their own, they just need a little more encouragement. What I mean is that water and plastic don't like each other very much, similar to oil and water. When you first apply acrylics, you may notice the paint doesn't want to stick to anything, and will just sort of pool and puddle in corners and so on. That's surface tension. To overcome this, you can add flow enhancer, or even regular liquid soap to reduce the tension, but this alone won't do the trick. You will need to pull the paint around a little at first. Each time you make a pass with the brush, a tiny amount of paint will stick to the surface, each subsequent pass adds more, and so on, and so on until it covers completely. Don't be tempted to smear paint all over the place; the paints do self-level nicely, but only up to a point. You will need patience and a bit of practice. Several light coats work better than one heavy coat, though that applies to all paints, not just acrylics.

Acrylics offer a few advantages to enamels. First off, they dry very quickly, so no need to wait hours to add the next coat or colour. You can add better looking translucent layers (in my opinion), they clean up and thin with water, and lastly, don't stink up your modeling area. The only thing they don't do as well as enamels or oils, is wet blend. They dry too quickly for that, even when you add retarder. However, as I mentioned, they produce lovely translucent layers, so it's just a matter of practicing a new technique. Brush selection plays an important part too. For general coverage, flats or blunt rounds are best. Don't overload the brush either, work in small sections, and remember to swish your brushes every minute or so to keep the paint form drying on the bristles. Wash them thoroughly after each session and preserve the points of detail brushes by pulling them between your lips.

I base coated with Dark Yellow with a touch of Light Grey Vallejo primer. The Dark Yellow looks a little too green to me. Vallejo's primers are quite nice to work with, they coat well for the most part, the lightness of the colour is the biggest factor, and are quite durable when cured. One thing they don't do well is sand or react well with super glue. This is probably due to the polymer formula used. When applied properly, the paint actually forms a skin, and this is an added bonus; it helps to keep photoetched pieces in place. The paint levels well on its own, and really gets into nooks and crannies. Two to three coats is usually plenty for good coverage, this just being a base coat, remember.

For the top coat I used Dark Yellow, and then applied some thinned, lightened layers to high points and various protrusions to achieve a modulated affect. I prefer this technique to dry brushing, it’s a little more subtle and provides a more random feel. Some pin washes and a filter with pigments and voila, one dunkelgelb StuG. Weathering is kept to a bare minimum as I wanted a new vehicle just delivered to the unidentified unit on the Eastern Front that Dragon is so fond of providing as a marking option. Speaking of marking options, there is a plethora of dearth with this kit. Four options, two of which are adorned with, well, nothing. Seriously?