Armor/AFV: Modern Armor
Modern armor in general.
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Australian LAV (ASLAV) (Renamed Topic)
ppawlak1
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Posted: Wednesday, September 24, 2008 - 09:45 PM UTC

Quoted Text

Gents,


......one suggestion re the colour coding discussion currently under way. I recently purchase the Tankograd Australian Army 1st Brigade book No 7012. It’s pretty good. Of the 64 pages 11 are ASLAV themed photos. I plan to use this book as my primary reference at the colour mixing stage as it has a good selection of vehicles with very little weathering (brand new bushmasters and other vehicles fresh from a rebuild) hence you can get the colours right. Ordered it from the below company and it arrived in 1 week.

http://www.ianallanpublishing.com/product.php?productid=62084&cat=0&page=1

Cheers

W



Got the book above in the mail yesterday. Great reference that will be very handy. It also has good shots of the Aussie Abrams & Bushmaster Infantry Mobility Vehicle.

Paul

jasmils
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Posted: Friday, September 26, 2008 - 12:02 AM UTC
Team,

MA13?? ASLAV MEAO Antenna

Available 2nd week September



Cheers Jason
PS Sorry about the crap photo. I will try to do a better one tomorow.
Tankleader
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Posted: Friday, September 26, 2008 - 12:42 AM UTC

Quoted Text

G'day,
Nice photo hey!
It’s not Barracuda (also known as MCS). MCS has a normal cammo net stitched to a backing that is then attached to the car to reduce the heat inside and reduce its thermal signature.
The way this is done is just a layer of hessian, then a layer or two of some old normal every day cam net followed by strips of hessian again. All of it is wired in place or zip tied to the car.
We have been doing this for years. It’s mostly a Recon thing. Mostly.

Cheers Jason




Looks like a Ghillie suit for LAV's.

Tanks
Andy
Boggie
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Posted: Friday, September 26, 2008 - 04:07 AM UTC
Jason
This looks very good. Did you mean second week in October instead of September because it is now September 26th. I'd be very happy if you meant September because that means I'll have it before I head north again.
I bought the Tankograd book from Blast and found it very helpful as well. I'd like to see something more along the lines of Wings and Wheels book devoted to modern Aussie armour.
What's next then Jason, I can't wait.
Regards
Bill
RomeoKilo
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Posted: Friday, September 26, 2008 - 10:19 PM UTC

Quoted Text


MA13?? ASLAV MEAO Antenna

Available 2nd week September



Awesome work Jason. It seems as soon as i begin to scratch something you show us a completed product!

Can you include the lights and siren box in that set, considering they are part of the MEAO fit out?

You are going to send me broke!
RomeoKilo
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Posted: Friday, September 26, 2008 - 10:26 PM UTC

Quoted Text


Looks like a Ghillie suit for LAV's.

Tanks
Andy



Now this is a lav Ghillie suit.


Frenchy
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Posted: Friday, September 26, 2008 - 10:47 PM UTC

Quoted Text


Quoted Text


Looks like a Ghillie suit for LAV's.

Tanks
Andy



Now this is a lav Ghillie suit.





Looks like the crew doesn't fear hay fever

Frenchy
ppawlak1
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Posted: Saturday, September 27, 2008 - 04:27 PM UTC
Gotta love that Camo Jason, Ray.

Thanks for the photos !

I've cleaned up the upper hull on my '25' ( lots of knocking bits off, sanding & puttying) and am about to add the other MH bit and a few scratch builts (when the stryrene bar arrives).

I'm at a little bit of a loss as to BEST way to 'scribe' the power panel using the MH guide that comes with the PE.

Do I :

1. Cut the panel out and scribe around it ?

2. Cut the square section outside the panel out and scribe in between that and the panel shape ?

Which method have you used team ?

How have you attached the PE guide to the hull to keep it in place ?

Thanks in advance,

Paul

RomeoKilo
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Posted: Saturday, September 27, 2008 - 07:15 PM UTC

Quoted Text


Cut the square section outside the panel out and scribe in between that and the panel shape ?

How have you attached the PE guide to the hull to keep it in place ?




Thats the most accurate way to go mate.

I just put a drop of CA glue on the back and stuck it down. Its strong enough to stay in place when you are grinding the line, then you can just prise it off when done. Then all you need to do is free hand the small sections where the PE frame is attached.
ppawlak1
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Posted: Saturday, September 27, 2008 - 07:23 PM UTC

Quoted Text


Quoted Text


Cut the square section outside the panel out and scribe in between that and the panel shape ?

How have you attached the PE guide to the hull to keep it in place ?




Thats the most accurate way to go mate.

I just put a drop of CA glue on the back and stuck it down. Its strong enough to stay in place when you are grinding the line, then you can just prise it off when done. Then all you need to do is free hand the small sections where the PE frame is attached.



Thanks Ray that's a great help !!

What did you use to scribe ?

Paul
RomeoKilo
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Posted: Saturday, September 27, 2008 - 10:11 PM UTC
Nothing fancy mate, just the rear edge of a blunted xacto blade. Just start very lightly around the corners and it will be easy.

I figured since im going so far with the interior i might as well open it up anyway, so i scribed the whole way through.
ppawlak1
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Posted: Saturday, September 27, 2008 - 10:35 PM UTC
Thanks Ray.

I tried a compass tip. I think the grooves may be too deep !!

I may putty it up and try again.

Great tooling interior you've done there !!!!

Paul
RomeoKilo
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Posted: Saturday, September 27, 2008 - 10:53 PM UTC
Yeah its an easy error to make mate. Thankfully, its also an easy error to correct. I did it a few times before i was happy with the depth and the position on my PC.
jasmils
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Posted: Sunday, September 28, 2008 - 12:12 AM UTC

Quoted Text

Did you mean second week in October instead of September because it is now September 26th


Yeah, second week in October sorry Bill. I had a minor brain fart the other night.


Quoted Text

Awesome work Jason. It seems as soon as i begin to scratch something you show us a completed product!
Can you include the lights and siren box in that set, considering they are part of the MEAO fit out?
You are going to send me broke!


Thanks for the kind words Ray. Good idea on the siren etc, I will get back to you on that one.
You might need to do another trip to pay for all the new stuff mate?


Quoted Text

Now I'm counting down to the ASLAV crew, Late September release right ?


That was the plan Paul, but now it looks like late october. Sorry.


Cheers Jason
ppawlak1
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Posted: Sunday, September 28, 2008 - 12:36 AM UTC
Depth much better now Ray. It looks much more realistic

It's a little high but I didn't want to scribe on the putty - probabably 1.5 - 2mm high.

It looks Ok though and it'll do for this first build.

Edit: No I've moved it again to the place where it should be !! I couldn't look at it - as the hinge line must be adjacent to the corner of the suspension bump. It would look a little weird to me if I left it where it was. I now have two puttied hatch marks ont he unpainted hull, it looks weird put will paint up ok.

Paul
Boggie
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Posted: Sunday, September 28, 2008 - 04:33 AM UTC
Jason
Just tried to order your antennas from Mouse House and I was told, as you confirmed, that it will be next month. Oh well I'll have something nice on my return mid November when I return, maybe some figures too then.
Great work.
Regards
Paul, hows about some pictures of your build, you too Ray it's been a while ;o)
WB
ppawlak1
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Posted: Sunday, September 28, 2008 - 12:23 PM UTC
Hi BIll.

I'll try to get a pic up in the next day or so - no new camera yet

Upper Hull cleaned up and puttied. Lower Hull complete. Not much more I can do until the Styrene Rod and Sheet arrives in the next few days.

I won't add any of the smaller hang ons until the main scratch built bits are complete. ie: camo basket etc.

Although the PE tie-ons will probably go on tomorrow. Any tips on attaching them please team ???

It'd be great to have a donor kit with a nice clean hull - this one has taken a couple of days to clean up with all the extra moulded accesories that are not on the ASLAV.

Cheers,

Paul
Boggie
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Posted: Sunday, September 28, 2008 - 02:02 PM UTC
Paul
The way I did the continuous tie downs was to draw a line where I wanted them, no mean feat but you can do this part, erase and do it again, until you get it right. I then got out my calipers and tried to determine the exact spacing of those pins and then I drilled tiny holes along my line at the correct distances to accept the pins. This didn't work. Somehow the pins and the holes never lined up properly so I glued one and then drilled again and filled and drilled until the end, a bit of a mess. If I had my time back I'd have used Gaitor glue instead of cyano so the mess I created could be cleaned up easily with water on an old brush.
Once the tie downs are removed from the sheet there is no way to have them straight until they are glued down so measure the pins on the fret before you remove them, it'll be more accurate that way. I would have determined the dimensions between the pins with dividers and then drill the holes larger than necessary to afford some wiggle room knowing that I could fill the holes later. If you glue just the pins in the holes you'll then be able to go back after and take the wow out along the course, then glue down the sections to ensure they are straight. This is place I wish I'd known about Gaitor glue. Apply it, straighten the course and wipe off the extra and you have a clean secure join.
Can you tell this was an issue?
I am sold on the Mouse House tie downs, just bought 4 more sheets of their new continuous tie downs for a few other project I have like my Canadian Bison and hopefully an ASLAV 25 sometime soon.
My last thought on this that it would be nice for Mouse House to tell you what the distance is between pins, that would help a lot.
Regards
Bill
ppawlak1
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Posted: Sunday, September 28, 2008 - 02:10 PM UTC
Thanks Bill.

Now if mouse house created a template on the PE sheet for the tie-downs - that would be perfect

What did you use for the anti slip paint again ? Are you happy with the result ?

You don't think it ended up being too grainy did you ?

Paul
Boggie
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Posted: Sunday, September 28, 2008 - 04:03 PM UTC
Paul
Great idea about the drilling template, could be on the etch fret kind of like the panel template, I thought that was very clever when I saw it.
I used Rustoleum textured here in Canada, I'm sure it's available in many brands in rattle cans. I got grey so I could see it easily and I think it worked very well, especially after it was painted. It would be hard to get it finer, it would not be visible.
Good luck
Bill
ppawlak1
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Posted: Sunday, September 28, 2008 - 06:27 PM UTC

Quoted Text




Quoted Text

Now I'm counting down to the ASLAV crew, Late September release right ?



That was the plan Paul, but now it looks like late october. Sorry.


Cheers Jason



Thanks Jase.

I can wait for the crew, this '25' will take quite a while - I'm pluggin away quite slowly. The Ph III 'want to do' has slowed me right down.

I'll do your Ph III '25' also when it comes out. I'll be interested how you handle the turret slat armor if you include it in the kit.

That could be tricky. I'd rather a get a bag of PE and plastic and assemble it if that's what you're thinking. It'd be a lot sharper.

Do you have pics of a '25's' rear turret basket or one in one of your builds ?

I'm confused as to what to do with the molded antenna mounts at the back of the Trump turret and what to put on them, chop them off or not ? The GPS antenna obviously will go in between them (right in the middle) on a resin mount.

Cheers,

Paul

RomeoKilo
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Posted: Sunday, September 28, 2008 - 08:44 PM UTC
Hey mate. Hack the moulded ones off. Here is mine. Only tacked on and very rough, but you get the general idea of the layout.


Not much more done on my PC. Recieved the corrected cupola today. Fit is much better.
ppawlak1
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Posted: Sunday, September 28, 2008 - 09:03 PM UTC
Ray do you reckon yours has those antenna posts the same as this one ?

This is 16303 in the 'Ghan' in 2006 ( the one I'm doing)











I'm making the muffler shields out of lead sheet ATM

Paul








RomeoKilo
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Posted: Sunday, September 28, 2008 - 09:18 PM UTC
I can 100% guarantee it mate.

This is a Ph2 but no change to the actual welding of the turret on Ph3.
ppawlak1
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Posted: Sunday, September 28, 2008 - 09:31 PM UTC
Thanks Ray you're a legend !

Great pic that last one

More bits to take off the kit. OMG

I have the day off today and I've done a fair bit of sanding - I think that's enough for now.

Also the shield on this muffler is giving me the sxxts !!! I'll leave it for now before I throw it out the window It'll come up fine when I try again tomorrow I think.

Thanks again Ray !

Paul