Armor/AFV: Modern Armor
Modern armor in general.
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Australian LAV (ASLAV) (Renamed Topic)
ppawlak1
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Posted: Monday, September 29, 2008 - 02:22 PM UTC
A few dodgy looking pics (sorry) of where I'm at.

Upper Hull cleaned of all those extra's not on the ASLAV (including those crappy LAV exhaust brackets). Excess holes have all been filled, as well as the side vision ports, and the power panel hatch is scribed on the LHS. The suspension bumps are now rounded - a bit of scraping and sanding involved there !

The Hull is pretty clean - I'm pretty happy with it

The scribed panel came up Ok (after 3 attempts). I put an light acrylic wash in the recesses so I could see that it was straight and consistant before I glue the hinges etc onto it.





I'm working on the muffler ATM.

Paul
RomeoKilo
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Posted: Monday, September 29, 2008 - 03:05 PM UTC
Hey mate, she is looking good. Nice and clean build.

I hope you dont mind me using your photo.

The forward lifting eye is further forward on ASLAV (marked in blue) than on LAV-25, hence the fill on the kit points. Also the long step along the edge needs to be filled. The smaller vent on the kit is not on ASLAV, and dont forget to remove the LAV-25 drivers hatch hinges.
ppawlak1
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Posted: Monday, September 29, 2008 - 03:34 PM UTC
I really appreciate your feedback Ray. Your expert advice, and that of others, will hopefully make this one as accurate as possible.

The hull came up really clean. A lot of wet sanding (even with a 'nail sanding stick') helps make the areas removed as smooth as the original surface - even when a big blob of plastic has been removed.

I had plans for filling the edge - I think I may use a strip of styrene and fill any gaps with putty.

I didn't know about the other changes needed, so your observations help alot !

Thanks Mate !

Paul



RomeoKilo
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Posted: Tuesday, September 30, 2008 - 02:23 AM UTC

Quoted Text

Paul
The way I did the continuous tie downs was to draw a line where I wanted them, no mean feat but you can do this part, erase and do it again, until you get it right. I then got out my calipers and tried to determine the exact spacing of those pins and then I drilled tiny holes along my line at the correct distances to accept the pins. This didn't work. Somehow the pins and the holes never lined up properly so I glued one and then drilled again and filled and drilled until the end, a bit of a mess. If I had my time back I'd have used Gaitor glue instead of cyano so the mess I created could be cleaned up easily with water on an old brush.
Once the tie downs are removed from the sheet there is no way to have them straight until they are glued down so measure the pins on the fret before you remove them, it'll be more accurate that way. I would have determined the dimensions between the pins with dividers and then drill the holes larger than necessary to afford some wiggle room knowing that I could fill the holes later. If you glue just the pins in the holes you'll then be able to go back after and take the wow out along the course, then glue down the sections to ensure they are straight. This is place I wish I'd known about Gaitor glue. Apply it, straighten the course and wipe off the extra and you have a clean secure join.
Can you tell this was an issue?
I am sold on the Mouse House tie downs, just bought 4 more sheets of their new continuous tie downs for a few other project I have like my Canadian Bison and hopefully an ASLAV 25 sometime soon.
My last thought on this that it would be nice for Mouse House to tell you what the distance is between pins, that would help a lot.
Regards
Bill



Gaitor Glue?? Never heard of it before you mentioned it. So its as strong as CA but washes of with soap and water? That would make life much easier indeed. It would make a good gap filler as well...

As for attaching the tie downs, I did the same thing. I drew a line, but then i removed the Tie downs from the PE fret . I taped them flat against the surface with clear tape, aligned with the line i drew. The i just drilled the holes along the line where the pins were located.

I hope that makes sense? I ended up with a nice straight line and the holes were in the perfect position. I havnt actually attached them yet, but they snap in there and look the goods.
Boggie
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Posted: Tuesday, September 30, 2008 - 02:52 AM UTC
Ray
Excellent solution to aligning the continuous tie downs, why didn't I think of that.
I heard about Gaitor Glue on this forum and thought to check it out. It would work real well for the tie downs. Once you have them in place dry fitted you can brush the glue in and around where the tie downs touch the surface and the drilled holes and then clean your brush with water and repeat the brushing until only the glue in the holes and attachment points have the glue there. You have time as well to readjust and then leave it to set up.
http://www.gatorsmask.com/gatorglueorder.html
It is great news that Mouse House now sells a fret of nothing but continuous tie downs as well, for those extra places that tie down are needed.
http://www.mheaust.com.au/MHE/Photoetch/MHPE.htm
Photobucket
Too bad the promotion picture of the PE shows a damaged specimen, they are really perfect when you get them.
Thanks for your insights Ray
Bill
ppawlak1
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Posted: Tuesday, September 30, 2008 - 04:14 PM UTC
Thanks for the Gator glue info Bill, and the link. I've ordered some.

It sounds like it's water soluble before its dry from your description above.

I wonder how strong it is. I guess time will tell.

Paul
ppawlak1
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Posted: Friday, October 03, 2008 - 05:55 PM UTC
Not much time for modelling this week.

I've finished the exhaust / muffler, it's blue tacked onto the hull - I'll glue it on after the other bits are attached. And clean it up very slightly for a few burrs.

I used lead sheet (courtesy of my modelling buddy William Bradley - Onya Bill !!!), some of that good old Evergreen styrene, and those nice little Mig PE Rivets which were reviewed here recently (they're great).

The basic muffler shape from MH was used, but I chopped off all of the resin shields and brackets and made those myself. Here are the results:








The lead sheet doesn't look as cool as PE (or brass plate), but it is soooo much easier to work with and shape !!

Cheers,

Paul

William_Bradley
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Posted: Friday, October 03, 2008 - 08:29 PM UTC
Paul,
Nice bit of fabrication there, very nice and clean indeed. And what's up with your photos? New camera? Great photos as well.
Bill
ppawlak1
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Posted: Friday, October 03, 2008 - 08:42 PM UTC

Quoted Text

Paul,
Nice bit of fabrication there, very nice and clean indeed. And what's up with your photos? New camera? Great photos as well.
Bill



Hey Bill.

Thanks for your kind words.

Your scratch building has inspired me. Especially the boxes on the back of your sIG in the Eastern Front Campaign. This lead sheet is really very flexible in it's use !

The Camera ? I've learned that if I set it to Macro and switch off flash etc, I can get the camera to focus on a specific area much better. This camera will do, it's not worth spending mega bucks on a new one.

My next task is to scratch build the turret baskets. Evergreen will be ideal for that as you suggested. I'm making the templates at the moment for the frames.

Paul

RomeoKilo
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Posted: Saturday, October 04, 2008 - 12:32 PM UTC

Exhaust looks good mate. I havnt tried tackling that yet.


Quoted Text

and those nice little Mig PE Rivets which were reviewed here recently (they're great).




Where did you get those from?

ppawlak1
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Posted: Saturday, October 04, 2008 - 12:43 PM UTC
G'day Ray.

I got the rivets direct from MIG Productions:

http://www.migproductions.com/news2.htm

I think Southeast Hobbies may be getting them soon:

http://www.southeasthobbies.com.au/catalogue/mig-productions/

Paul
ppawlak1
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Posted: Tuesday, October 07, 2008 - 09:47 PM UTC
Hi Guys !

Can anyone tell me if the rear turret basket on the ASLAV 25 PHIII is the same size as the LAV25 ?

Looking at Ray's picture above they look the same length wise.

HOWEVER the MH resin casting is significantly longer than the Trumpter LAV 25 kit basket. If I add the ASLAV side sheetmetal to the Trumpeter basket it looks like ray's picture.

Any ideas ?

Some feedback would be VERY much appreciated

Cheers,

Paul
Boggie
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Posted: Wednesday, October 08, 2008 - 12:13 AM UTC
Paul
Have you been following the LAV III build? There is some talk about turret baskets but since I have never dealt with them, I can't say.
This quote from Jason Bobrowich


Quoted Text

Andy,

Very nice update...keep it going.

Mouse House Enterprises do make resin side turret baskets for their ASLAV 25 conversion....I do believe they are the same as on the LAV III and Coyote.

With Trumpeter's LAV III and ASLAV 25.....hopefully eventually coming down and out of the pipe.....there should be some opportunites for plastic turret baskets.


https://armorama.kitmaker.net/forums/121594&page=2
Bill
PS
I changed the mounting attachment points on my ASLAV (right hand side of box) the other day. I was able to reuse the shaved off attachmnet points and attached them with Gator Glue, no problem.
ppawlak1
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Posted: Wednesday, October 08, 2008 - 07:41 AM UTC
Thanks Bill.

It's really the REAR turret basket. The MH basket looks very different to the Trumpeter basket, which looks the same as Ray's picture above.

I'm confused

Ray any ideas ?? Can you check your MH and Trump baskets ?

Paul

Boggie
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Posted: Wednesday, October 08, 2008 - 09:32 AM UTC
Paul
Sorry about that. This is going to be THE thread when it comes time for me to build my 25, good luck resolving the rear basket.
Bill
RomeoKilo
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Posted: Wednesday, October 08, 2008 - 10:17 AM UTC
Not sure mate. Im not using the bustle bins with mine so i havent even looked at them. In fact i cant even find where i put them...

If in doubt id go with the one that looks closer to the photo. That definatly doesnt lie!
ppawlak1
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Posted: Wednesday, October 08, 2008 - 10:37 AM UTC
Thanks Ray,

so those Phase III's in Afghanistan have the same bins as your picture do they ?

If they do then I think the Trumpeter Bin is more accurate.

Paul
ppawlak1
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Posted: Wednesday, October 08, 2008 - 06:43 PM UTC

Quoted Text

.
I changed the mounting attachment points on my ASLAV (right hand side of box) the other day. I was able to reuse the shaved off attachmnet points and attached them with Gator Glue, no problem.



Looking forwrad to seeing pics Bill. I'm waiting for my Gator glue to arrive ATM.

Paul
RomeoKilo
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Posted: Wednesday, October 08, 2008 - 11:52 PM UTC

Quoted Text

Thanks Ray,

so those Phase III's in Afghanistan have the same bins as your picture do they ?

If they do then I think the Trumpeter Bin is more accurate.

Paul



No change to the construction of the bin.

Only difference being the mounting points you can see on the right hand side of the rear bin has a bracket for the Gas bottle bolted to them. But this can be removed and has been on many. Also these can have empty 25mm or the larger 40mm liners bolted to them.
ppawlak1
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Posted: Thursday, October 09, 2008 - 08:03 AM UTC
Thanks Mate !

The Trumpeter Bin is the go then !

I still have to scratch the other bins though. I'm trying styrene rod ATM but may go to copper wire.

Paul
WayneB
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Posted: Saturday, October 11, 2008 - 05:14 AM UTC
Hi guys,

Wanted to post a few images of my ASLAV PC.

I decided to try to add a little interior detail in the drivers and commanders stations so that I could leave these hatches open. Reference pics were hard to come by for the inside of an ASLAV PC’s so I had to make do with pics of Bison’s and LAV 25s. I used the AEF designs LAV Mortar interior kit as a base. A bit of work was required as I think the AEF kit was not designed for the Trumpeter kit, but it does give the coarse shapes you need....... Mold quality could be better but I guess you get what you pay for and given the absence of reference pics I did not want to try scratch building the whole thing..... One thing I do know is that the instrument panel is wrong for an ASLAV. Anyway figured this might help anyone who's trying a similar approach.

Can anyone help me by telling me where the DVR and CDRs F88C's are stowed? I can see where Ray has put his on his ASLAV-25 but not sure what the layout is on a PC. https://armorama.kitmaker.net/forums/116228&page=1

Ray really looking forward to seeing you finish off your ASLAV25, it’s a fine build. You should look into building masters for Jason and John at Mousehouse. I know I'd buy an ASLAV-25 interior kit like the one your scratching.




Boggie
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Posted: Saturday, October 11, 2008 - 05:23 AM UTC
Wayne
Well done, you raised the bar. Are you going to have the top removable so you can see inside or are you going to seal it up? If you're going to seal it up all that work will be lost unless you put a tiny LED light down in there so you could at least see into those tiny hatches.
Can't wait to see yours all painted up.
Regards
Bill
ppawlak1
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Posted: Saturday, October 11, 2008 - 10:01 AM UTC
Nice work Wayne.

I agree with Bill, it would be a shame to seal that all up - it would be lost.

Looking forward to more updates.

Cheers,

Paul
jasmils
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Posted: Saturday, October 11, 2008 - 03:41 PM UTC
G'day Wayne,
Not bad at all mate. Where did you get the warning and mod decals from?

Cheers Jason
Austmouse
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Posted: Saturday, October 11, 2008 - 03:58 PM UTC
External ASLAV 25 stowage bins
The Mouse Armour turret stowage bins are based on actually measurements. There is a difference between the USMC LAV 25 rear bin and the aust version.

JM