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Tamiya T-55A with CMK resin interior kit
Posted: Sunday, June 26, 2011 - 05:08 AM UTC
This build just keeps on getting better. You're a nutcase Matt, definetly !
bison126
Correze, France
Joined: June 10, 2004
KitMaker: 5,329 posts
Armorama: 5,204 posts
Joined: June 10, 2004
KitMaker: 5,329 posts
Armorama: 5,204 posts
Posted: Sunday, June 26, 2011 - 05:47 AM UTC
This is some brilliant job Matt.
Concerning the Friul tracks, I guess you used the metal wire issued in the box. It is to thin so there is some void in each link. Try to use larger pins, this should solve your excess of sagging.
If you still want to change the tracks you can get a set of the new Miniarm RMSH tracks for T-55/62 that comes with the correct sprockets. The drawback is they are of the workable type.
Olivier
Concerning the Friul tracks, I guess you used the metal wire issued in the box. It is to thin so there is some void in each link. Try to use larger pins, this should solve your excess of sagging.
If you still want to change the tracks you can get a set of the new Miniarm RMSH tracks for T-55/62 that comes with the correct sprockets. The drawback is they are of the workable type.
Olivier
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gibbs_
Haut-Rhin, France
Joined: June 27, 2011
KitMaker: 8 posts
Armorama: 6 posts
Joined: June 27, 2011
KitMaker: 8 posts
Armorama: 6 posts
Posted: Monday, June 27, 2011 - 06:59 PM UTC
great work!!!
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spiritwalker
England - North, United Kingdom
Joined: February 20, 2009
KitMaker: 99 posts
Armorama: 97 posts
Joined: February 20, 2009
KitMaker: 99 posts
Armorama: 97 posts
Posted: Tuesday, June 28, 2011 - 10:18 AM UTC
Hi Matt
Dont get me wrong, i applaud anyone trying to get the details correct on any build....particularly T-54/55 maybe a point to look at is how Tamiya depicted the ribs in the rear fenders....they orientated them the wrong way...maybe scrape off, drill through and recess them?..would be a shame to ruin all this excellent research and work you have put in. I see you are in the UK, i will be attending Telford later in the year and have a few models with me maybe a chance to meet..
Regards
Andy
Dont get me wrong, i applaud anyone trying to get the details correct on any build....particularly T-54/55 maybe a point to look at is how Tamiya depicted the ribs in the rear fenders....they orientated them the wrong way...maybe scrape off, drill through and recess them?..would be a shame to ruin all this excellent research and work you have put in. I see you are in the UK, i will be attending Telford later in the year and have a few models with me maybe a chance to meet..
Regards
Andy
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spiritwalker
England - North, United Kingdom
Joined: February 20, 2009
KitMaker: 99 posts
Armorama: 97 posts
Joined: February 20, 2009
KitMaker: 99 posts
Armorama: 97 posts
Posted: Tuesday, June 28, 2011 - 11:20 AM UTC
yes, front indentations incorrect too..., Life is always hectic here too, self employed in building trade. Well maybe see what happens , i will be there with a few mates . May have a build displayed on ADH Publishing[Tamiya stand], if i can get something finished.....
Regards
Andy
Regards
Andy
Spiderfrommars
Milano, Italy
Joined: July 13, 2010
KitMaker: 3,845 posts
Armorama: 3,543 posts
Joined: July 13, 2010
KitMaker: 3,845 posts
Armorama: 3,543 posts
Posted: Tuesday, June 28, 2011 - 06:05 PM UTC
Quoted Text
I dont think the hatch face detail is totally accurate (I shall check it out), but I liked them so much I fitted them anyway
Real one seems to be a little bit simplier than yours. But details can be different on different exemplars
Quoted Text
Yep, Tamiya got the fender strengthening ribs wrong on the front portion of the fenders as well, that little bit of fender just before the mudguard, they show it raised, when it should be recessed.
Yes, unfortunately that's it...but in my opinion is a minor flaw. Correct that mistake could be difficult, boring and "risky". If I were you I wouldn't touch it
Anyway, as i told you, this is one of the best T-55 which I ever seen
Congrats again and thanks to share with us your job
I've found other references about polish t-55. (with interior pics)
If you'd like to get them I'll send you
cheers
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Spiderfrommars
Milano, Italy
Joined: July 13, 2010
KitMaker: 3,845 posts
Armorama: 3,543 posts
Joined: July 13, 2010
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Armorama: 3,543 posts
Posted: Wednesday, June 29, 2011 - 03:33 AM UTC
Quoted Text
Well, this picture reminds me that I need to make a Snorkel Tube, and I like the way this one has dust covers on each end, a nice little feature, so I might do it with dust covers.
And I was rooting around in old threads and found this very nice little Polish snorkel, made by Mauro
Thank you
Very nice, looks spot on.
Thank you But I'm sure you can do it better than me
Be careful that Polish snorkels are simplier than the Russian ones
...and unfortunately Tamiya snorkel isn't good
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Spiderfrommars
Milano, Italy
Joined: July 13, 2010
KitMaker: 3,845 posts
Armorama: 3,543 posts
Joined: July 13, 2010
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Armorama: 3,543 posts
Posted: Wednesday, June 29, 2011 - 06:09 PM UTC
Quoted Text
I hate Milliput, it's one of the best products on the market, you can smooth it with water, BUT, you end up covered in the stuff, your hands, your blades, your table
Yes, that's it It dirties all your tools and your workbench with a stcky white mush...
I've also noticed that you can smooth it with water or alcohol, but if you need very plain surfaces you can't avoid to apply on them a coat of Gunze Mr surfacer 1000 or 500 (and of course, after that, you have to sand down with a fine sandpaper)
But anyway, to thicken that rounded shape, you didn't have many other possibilities, I think...
Posted: Thursday, June 30, 2011 - 03:24 AM UTC
Matt- ever tried Magic-Sculpt? Its not as sticky as Milliput. If I'm using either I always coat my hands with talcum powder- stops the gunk sticking.
The rear of the build is awesome by the way! So many added parts- perhaps you shouldn't paint this- you know, just show it off !
The rear of the build is awesome by the way! So many added parts- perhaps you shouldn't paint this- you know, just show it off !
Removed by original poster on 05/13/19 - 21:02:32 (GMT).
Spiderfrommars
Milano, Italy
Joined: July 13, 2010
KitMaker: 3,845 posts
Armorama: 3,543 posts
Joined: July 13, 2010
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Armorama: 3,543 posts
Posted: Thursday, June 30, 2011 - 04:33 AM UTC
Hi Karl
I've never tried magic sculpt because unfortunately i can't find it here in Italy
I've tried the talcum trick....so now my workbench is dirty with milliput and talcum
Joking aside, is a good trick but in my humble opinion is not too effective.
Dirtiness is the drawback of Milliput
I've never tried magic sculpt because unfortunately i can't find it here in Italy
I've tried the talcum trick....so now my workbench is dirty with milliput and talcum
Joking aside, is a good trick but in my humble opinion is not too effective.
Dirtiness is the drawback of Milliput
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Posted: Thursday, June 30, 2011 - 06:06 AM UTC
I always use the talc over some grease-proof paper and a towel to stop it getting everywhere, which can be rather annoying!
Magic Sculpt hardening time would be fairly similar to Milliput. It will start to harden off after about two hours but sometimes it will be workable a while after that. Full cure takes about 24 hours. A bit of water helps smooth it out and keep it supple. It sands very nicely too. I usually use it for repairing gaps in figures and adding little bits of detail. I first tried it on a vehicle to create angular shapes on a BTR hull and it worked a treat.
Magic Sculpt hardening time would be fairly similar to Milliput. It will start to harden off after about two hours but sometimes it will be workable a while after that. Full cure takes about 24 hours. A bit of water helps smooth it out and keep it supple. It sands very nicely too. I usually use it for repairing gaps in figures and adding little bits of detail. I first tried it on a vehicle to create angular shapes on a BTR hull and it worked a treat.
Spiderfrommars
Milano, Italy
Joined: July 13, 2010
KitMaker: 3,845 posts
Armorama: 3,543 posts
Joined: July 13, 2010
KitMaker: 3,845 posts
Armorama: 3,543 posts
Posted: Thursday, June 30, 2011 - 07:21 AM UTC
Quoted Text
I always use the talc over some grease-proof paper and a towel to stop it getting everywhere, which can be rather annoying!
Magic Sculpt hardening time would be fairly similar to Milliput. It will start to harden off after about two hours but sometimes it will be workable a while after that. Full cure takes about 24 hours. A bit of water helps smooth it out and keep it supple. It sands very nicely too. I usually use it for repairing gaps in figures and adding little bits of detail. I first tried it on a vehicle to create angular shapes on a BTR hull and it worked a treat.
Last time i used Parchment paper. Probably I wasn't careful enough
Next time I'll try to improve
Thanks for the advise
Removed by original poster on 05/13/19 - 21:03:12 (GMT).
Spiderfrommars
Milano, Italy
Joined: July 13, 2010
KitMaker: 3,845 posts
Armorama: 3,543 posts
Joined: July 13, 2010
KitMaker: 3,845 posts
Armorama: 3,543 posts
Posted: Thursday, June 30, 2011 - 08:06 AM UTC
Quoted Text
You guys are very organised and professional
Professional? Who? Me?