Dioramas: Buildings & Ruins
Ruined buildings and city scenes.
Hosted by Darren Baker
An ambitious project
olivato
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Distrito Federal, Argentina
Joined: August 16, 2005
KitMaker: 127 posts
Armorama: 107 posts
Posted: Thursday, September 26, 2013 - 11:19 PM UTC
Hi!


Quoted Text

Victor,
Any idea when you are going to be able to sell the furnature kit??????
Tom



Yes Tom, after lots of tests, I have solved problems and even changed some masters I can say the sets are going to be ready by 1st of november, and you are going to be the first to know about it!


Quoted Text

If you make your own P/E you could make detail for your details. For instance, make tiny P/E spirals for the heat elements on the electric stove, etc.



Biggles2, probably in the future I will make some PE but at firts I will try to set up the resin business.

Jose, my friend, you know that Iīm really thankful for your support!
trahe
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Virginia, United States
Joined: April 03, 2006
KitMaker: 1,158 posts
Armorama: 950 posts
Posted: Thursday, September 26, 2013 - 11:44 PM UTC
Victor, this is absolutely amazing! Can't wait to see more!
bronzey
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England - South East, United Kingdom
Joined: January 06, 2012
KitMaker: 300 posts
Armorama: 256 posts
Posted: Friday, September 27, 2013 - 04:04 AM UTC
Damn I forgot how good this thread is! Really inspiring!

Bronzey
olivato
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Distrito Federal, Argentina
Joined: August 16, 2005
KitMaker: 127 posts
Armorama: 107 posts
Posted: Friday, September 27, 2013 - 03:09 PM UTC
Hi!
Alex and Thomas: Thank you so much for your nice words!
See you soon!
SovietBoy22
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Scotland, United Kingdom
Joined: September 04, 2011
KitMaker: 461 posts
Armorama: 452 posts
Posted: Saturday, September 28, 2013 - 11:31 AM UTC
I'm guessing that you've probably already answered this question but, what brand of resin and equipment do you use and how do you cast your resin? I understand if you have little time due to the fact you are busy making this
superb diorama
Thanks
Euan
olivato
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Distrito Federal, Argentina
Joined: August 16, 2005
KitMaker: 127 posts
Armorama: 107 posts
Posted: Sunday, September 29, 2013 - 04:44 AM UTC
Euan: Thank you for seeing my project.
About the resin, I use two types of resin. An epoxy resin (Grey, in fact it is transparent and I dye it grey) and polyurethane resin (The beige one. This is the original color, but you can dye it too)

I started using the epoxy, but it is very aggressive with the molds, so you can make very few copies (8-10) before the molds start to get destroyed. The time to extract the piece from the mold is about 4-24 hs, depending on the atmospheric temperature. I use the one with the lowest viscosity. On the other hand, it is very hard and it doesn't have any contraction, so the copy is exactly the same as your master. At the moment I am using this one to make copies of things like doors, drawers, etc, that will be masters, but not to produce.
To produce Iīm going to use the polyurethane resin. Itīs super fast (About 15-60 min) to extract from the mold (again, the temperature is the key) but itīs not so hard as the epoxy. It has a little contraction, but itīs insignificant. It has very low viscosity, so itīs like water.

The equipment I use is this.
A pressure pot: I bought this one from a company that produces them for paint, but the idea is the same. Some resin companies produce their own. I recommend that you look for a serious company and not try to make your own, remember the pressure is very dangerous and the pot can explode.

A compressor: Mine has 25 lt. so with the tank full of air, I can fill the pressure pot in less than 1 min and reach the 80 lbs of pressure.

A vacuum pump: I use it to make the molds. The viscosity of the silicon rubber depends on the hardness (the harder it is, the more viscosity, but you can make more copies before the mold breaks), but when you mix it with the catalyzer you introduce a lot of bubbles, so with the vacuum pump you extract all this air, and your mold will be perfect.

A vacuum chamber: If you have the pressure pot, you can easily convert this one into a vacuum chamber, like mine (making vacuum is not as dangerous as making pressure, nothing is going to explode)


To cast the resin, I mix the component (the mix ratio depends on each resin, so look in the specification sheet) I fill the mold and put it in the pressure pot with about 80 lbs. (I read only 40 lbs are necessary to compress the bubbles). As the epoxy resin takes more time to cure, itīs very simple to make the pieces, because with the pressure and the long time, in almost all the cases, the mold is completely filled in.
With the polyurethane resin itīs different. Itīs so fast, that if air is trapped inside the mold when you fill it in with resin, not even the pressure will help. I add some channels to help the air go out of the mold and a mix of vacuum and pressure.


First make vacuum to help the air go out, and right after that change the top of the pot and make pressure... all of this in 5 min... if you see the movie "Over the edge", I look very similar to Hammy in this process...
All of this is based on my experience, with the materials I find in Argentina, but Iīve seen there are much better materials for example in USA (www.alumilite.com), so I recommend you find out what you can find in your country and see how it works.
Iīm not an expert, so surely some of the things I do are wrong, Iīm learning all the time. Make your own tests, ask to other people too.

Hope this answers your question, but if there is any other thing I can help you with or, if any of the explanations arenīt clear enough, please ask me. I am very happy to share what I have learned in this process.
meowmonster
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Alabama, United States
Joined: September 30, 2013
KitMaker: 27 posts
Armorama: 18 posts
Posted: Tuesday, October 01, 2013 - 02:59 PM UTC
Your work is inspirational. I've been planning a similar diorama (fighting in the streets during Cast Lead) and I'm gonna have to save up for some of your stuff. Are you planning on selling stuff like the brick molds or the decorative wall? With you having made accurate master, the molds I'm sure would sell well too. It would help me a lot, as I want to try to cover something the size of a city block or so.
Cowinacape
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Canada
Joined: December 21, 2010
KitMaker: 11 posts
Armorama: 9 posts
Posted: Wednesday, October 02, 2013 - 09:01 AM UTC

Quoted Text

Damn I forgot how good this thread is! Really inspiring!

Bronzey



Absolutely, some amazing work going on here, very inspiring!
olivato
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Distrito Federal, Argentina
Joined: August 16, 2005
KitMaker: 127 posts
Armorama: 107 posts
Posted: Wednesday, October 02, 2013 - 02:30 PM UTC
Edward: Welcome aboard and thanks for your kind words. At the moment it's not my intention to sell molds. Because of some modelers' interest, I am planning to make a set which will include windows, air conditioners, satellite dishes and decorative bricks (between 20 and 30 pieces) but it will be ready for next year (as long as the first sets sell well)

Dan: Thank you for your compliments. It makes me really happy and proud to know that some modelers have been inspired by what I do, as when I started with this hobby the internet didn't exist and it was hard to get in touch with other modelers and see their work. Thank you for seeing my project.
zorrolobo
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Distrito Federal, Mexico
Joined: May 31, 2013
KitMaker: 1,457 posts
Armorama: 1,440 posts
Posted: Monday, October 07, 2013 - 03:05 AM UTC
Felicidades amigo, que proyecto tan impresionante!
SovietBoy22
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Scotland, United Kingdom
Joined: September 04, 2011
KitMaker: 461 posts
Armorama: 452 posts
Posted: Monday, October 07, 2013 - 04:45 AM UTC

Quoted Text

Euan: Thank you for seeing my project.
About the resin, I use two types of resin. An epoxy resin (Grey, in fact it is transparent and I dye it grey) and polyurethane resin (The beige one. This is the original color, but you can dye it too)

I started using the epoxy, but it is very aggressive with the molds, so you can make very few copies (8-10) before the molds start to get destroyed. The time to extract the piece from the mold is about 4-24 hs, depending on the atmospheric temperature. I use the one with the lowest viscosity. On the other hand, it is very hard and it doesn't have any contraction, so the copy is exactly the same as your master. At the moment I am using this one to make copies of things like doors, drawers, etc, that will be masters, but not to produce.
To produce Iīm going to use the polyurethane resin. Itīs super fast (About 15-60 min) to extract from the mold (again, the temperature is the key) but itīs not so hard as the epoxy. It has a little contraction, but itīs insignificant. It has very low viscosity, so itīs like water.

The equipment I use is this.
A pressure pot: I bought this one from a company that produces them for paint, but the idea is the same. Some resin companies produce their own. I recommend that you look for a serious company and not try to make your own, remember the pressure is very dangerous and the pot can explode.

A compressor: Mine has 25 lt. so with the tank full of air, I can fill the pressure pot in less than 1 min and reach the 80 lbs of pressure.

A vacuum pump: I use it to make the molds. The viscosity of the silicon rubber depends on the hardness (the harder it is, the more viscosity, but you can make more copies before the mold breaks), but when you mix it with the catalyzer you introduce a lot of bubbles, so with the vacuum pump you extract all this air, and your mold will be perfect.

A vacuum chamber: If you have the pressure pot, you can easily convert this one into a vacuum chamber, like mine (making vacuum is not as dangerous as making pressure, nothing is going to explode)


To cast the resin, I mix the component (the mix ratio depends on each resin, so look in the specification sheet) I fill the mold and put it in the pressure pot with about 80 lbs. (I read only 40 lbs are necessary to compress the bubbles). As the epoxy resin takes more time to cure, itīs very simple to make the pieces, because with the pressure and the long time, in almost all the cases, the mold is completely filled in.
With the polyurethane resin itīs different. Itīs so fast, that if air is trapped inside the mold when you fill it in with resin, not even the pressure will help. I add some channels to help the air go out of the mold and a mix of vacuum and pressure.


First make vacuum to help the air go out, and right after that change the top of the pot and make pressure... all of this in 5 min... if you see the movie "Over the edge", I look very similar to Hammy in this process...
All of this is based on my experience, with the materials I find in Argentina, but Iīve seen there are much better materials for example in USA (www.alumilite.com), so I recommend you find out what you can find in your country and see how it works.
Iīm not an expert, so surely some of the things I do are wrong, Iīm learning all the time. Make your own tests, ask to other people too.

Hope this answers your question, but if there is any other thing I can help you with or, if any of the explanations arenīt clear enough, please ask me. I am very happy to share what I have learned in this process.




WOW, thanks so much for taking the time to explain in such detail, mush appreciated and extremely helpful. Looking forward to seeing your dio finished!
Thanks again!
Euan
olivato
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Distrito Federal, Argentina
Joined: August 16, 2005
KitMaker: 127 posts
Armorama: 107 posts
Posted: Wednesday, October 09, 2013 - 03:02 PM UTC
Hi everyone!

Marcos:Thank you for seeing my project and for taking the time to give me your impressions about it. Un abrazo desde Argentina!

Euan: No problem! If there is anything else I can help you with, just let me know. Thanks for following my project.

Now that the resin sets are in their final stage, I can go back to my original "ambitious project". I will start with the furniture on the first floor. This is a piece that will turn into three different ones, with a few changes in each.
As usual, here is the drawing:


See you tomorrow!
QUAX_MAXIMUS
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El Salvador
Joined: December 13, 2010
KitMaker: 46 posts
Armorama: 43 posts
Posted: Friday, October 11, 2013 - 04:32 PM UTC
ya quiero ver los edificios pintados y amoblados, se que se veran muy bien, saludos!!!!!!!!!!
sfctur1
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California, United States
Joined: December 12, 2007
KitMaker: 643 posts
Armorama: 497 posts
Posted: Sunday, November 24, 2013 - 05:06 PM UTC
Victor,
Any idea when you are going to be able to sell the sets?
Tom
olivato
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Distrito Federal, Argentina
Joined: August 16, 2005
KitMaker: 127 posts
Armorama: 107 posts
Posted: Wednesday, November 27, 2013 - 09:14 AM UTC
Hi Everyone!

Tom: This will probably answer your question...

Finally, the kits have seen the light!!! They are ready to be sent if anybody is interested in them.
I know this has taken a long time, and I apologise for that, but I am very proud of the final product, especially because everything is the result of my personal work, and when I say “everything” I mean from the master to the copies and even the labels design … and the assembling instructions (hours and hours on end in front of the computer fighting against Corel!!!) … and the packaging… and the posting… everything!!!
This is good because I can say that things came out exactly the way I wanted. On the other hand, if anything goes wrong, it’s all my fault too.
All this time has helped me adjust my timing to reality and not only to my expectations. This experience will help me improve the process-making of future kits.
Here are some pictures of the boxes and their contents.





If anybody is interested, here is my e-mai: [email protected]

I know this is not really about the dio, but it is also an ambitious project that was born from this post.
Thanks everybody for the interest and support that you always show me.
And from now on, this post will keep on following my dio’s process.
See you soon!
awrc
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Wisconsin, United States
Joined: April 18, 2005
KitMaker: 281 posts
Armorama: 201 posts
Posted: Wednesday, November 27, 2013 - 10:07 AM UTC
I've just discovered this thread (I don't read the forums much) but...wow. I'm in awe of the quality of this work.

I realize the discussion has moved on to the furniture (and I'm very pleased to see there's been so much interest in it that Victor is actually producing it for sale) but somewhere in the early pages I've missed something:

Victor, I understand the basic building construction approach that you take, using card templates to prepare styrene parts which then get gauzed and have a thin coating of DAS applied, and while I understand the reason for the application of the gauze how is this adhered to the styrene? Also, how thin do you roll the DAS? I'm assuming that since you keep to scale wall thickness for the styrene, the DAS must also be rolled very thin?

I'm going to follow this from now on - while I've got a lot of WWII-era furniture bought through people like Custom Dioramics, it's very interesting to see more modern styles (and modern appliances) and see techniques for creating buildings with scale thickness walls.

Admittedly, I did live in an 18th century apartment with walls that were over 2ft thick and made of stone at one point, but this is such a nice way of doing modern buildings, especially the ability to show internal wall structure, so I find this fascinating. It's beautiful work!
dioman13
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Indiana, United States
Joined: August 19, 2007
KitMaker: 2,184 posts
Armorama: 1,468 posts
Posted: Wednesday, November 27, 2013 - 03:29 PM UTC
Hey Victor, Congrats!!! It seemed to take forever but you are finallty there. I will have to wait a bit so I can budget in some of your fantastic sets but they will be worth it to me. Just have to finish some purchasing promises and a monthly set up with my L.H.S. You gotta love it when a plan comes together, as the saying goes. Hopefully this wont distract from your build, so far it has been a lovely experiance letting someone else do the driving and somehow don't want it to end. But all good things do. Best of luck on the sales and future development. Maybe we'll see an advertizement on Armorama in the future for "Victo's interiors". Bob D.
P.S. Your kitchen set box is marked (A), and instruction sheet marked (B) oops.
1stjaeger
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Wien, Austria
Joined: May 20, 2011
KitMaker: 1,744 posts
Armorama: 1,727 posts
Posted: Wednesday, November 27, 2013 - 07:46 PM UTC

Hi Victor!

fantastic news! You must be congratulated not only on your talent, but also -and at least as much- on your perseverance! To handle all this on your own is really something!!
Fortunately the sets will be very popular (provided they're affordable )!
I may be wrong, but I don't think so!!

Mail to you is being sent!

Cheers

Romain
zorrolobo
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Distrito Federal, Mexico
Joined: May 31, 2013
KitMaker: 1,457 posts
Armorama: 1,440 posts
Posted: Wednesday, November 27, 2013 - 09:07 PM UTC
Felicidades Victor!
Y por cierto, el diorama que inicio todo esto como va?
olivato
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Distrito Federal, Argentina
Joined: August 16, 2005
KitMaker: 127 posts
Armorama: 107 posts
Posted: Friday, November 29, 2013 - 12:59 PM UTC
Hi!

Al, thank you for your kind words about my work, and also for following this thread. It's very motivating for me know that new people find it interesting enough to follow it.
I have recently realized I have had more than 100,000 visits... it seems unbelievable that so many people have devoted this much attention to it, and I really appreciate it.
In answer to your questions, I have used white glue mixed with water (70-30 approx.) to fix the gauze to the styrene. It really gets attached. As for the Das thickness, it's about 1 mm including the gauze. To handle it better and get a thin coat, I use water to make it softer and a palette knife to spread it on the gauze.

Bob, thank you for your good wishes and for your patience following this thread from the very beginning ! I must admit that it seemed like "for ever" to me too, but I have finally done it! As for the assembling instructions, as I said before, it's all my fault Thank you for pointing it out; I have already corrected it. If you want any of the sets, just let me know!

Romain, I wish I had more time, so I could do things more quickly, but unfortunately, that is not the case, so it takes lots of time and, as you said, perseverance, to complete each stage. The market will tell if the sets have a fair price, but I believe that, for the price I am asking, I am offering a lot of items in each set (depending on the set, between 45 and 80 pieces). And I can also guarantee that the assembling of the parts is very accurate, too.
I have received your mail and I have already answered it. If you have any more question, do contact me again!

Marcos, good question!!! Unfortunately, the project has been in stand-by, but now that I have finished the furniture sets, I will go back to it with renewed energy! Thanks for following my posts!
erichvon
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England - East Midlands, United Kingdom
Joined: January 17, 2006
KitMaker: 1,694 posts
Armorama: 1,584 posts
Posted: Friday, November 29, 2013 - 02:09 PM UTC
I've never been one for doing modern subjects (being firmly entrenched in WW2) but I've been following this build and have been blown away by the attention to detail. Seeing that you're going to release these mouldings as sets, it is quite tempting to move into the 21st Century (lol) as prefer doing figures to vehicles oddly enough so these sets would motivate me to build an Iraqi flat being wrecked by Americans on that basis alone. Superb work! Nice to see kits being made by a modeller to sell to modellers! Top work!
walley54
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New Jersey, United States
Joined: September 29, 2005
KitMaker: 108 posts
Armorama: 92 posts
Posted: Tuesday, December 10, 2013 - 03:49 AM UTC
Victor, just recieved the first 3 sets of your new items, they are fantastic. The casting is excellent, no air bubbles or flaws at all. Packaging was great, no broken parts, and very timely delivery. Lookinf forward to all your new releases as they are issued.I highly recommend these sets to anyone looking for contemporary furniture for their dioramas. These kits can be used from the 60's, right through today.
olivato
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Distrito Federal, Argentina
Joined: August 16, 2005
KitMaker: 127 posts
Armorama: 107 posts
Posted: Tuesday, December 10, 2013 - 10:02 AM UTC
Hi everybody!

Karl, I know that WWII dios are the most popular, I myself have done a few ones, and there are a lot of accessories and furniture for that period.But for modelers who prefer modern dios, like me, the offer is very limited. And for a future "business", I can position myself better in the market. Thank you for the compliments and for following my work!

Walter, thank you for your feedback! I really appreciate it and I am happy to know that everything arrived undamaged. I was quite worried about that but now I see that the packaging worked well. It's been a peasure to have you as a customer! Please, do contact me if you need anything and I hope you enjoy the sets.
HeavyArty
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Florida, United States
Joined: May 16, 2002
KitMaker: 17,694 posts
Armorama: 13,742 posts
Posted: Tuesday, December 10, 2013 - 10:10 AM UTC
They look great. I hope you sell a bunch and go on to more develop sets. Modern sets like this are most welcomed.
Hisham
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Al Qahirah, Egypt / لعربية
Joined: July 23, 2004
KitMaker: 6,856 posts
Armorama: 6,363 posts
Posted: Tuesday, December 10, 2013 - 10:27 AM UTC
I just saw this update.. I don't know how I missed it before.. Glad you cast all your items.. and they all look great.. and they will be very useful

I just sent you an e-mail

Hope to see you do more stuff here

Hisham