Panzer Mk III Ausf G DAK Build
Pennsylvania, United States
Joined: February 14, 2011
KitMaker: 390 posts
Armorama: 387 posts
Posted: Friday, January 27, 2012 - 02:41 PM UTC
Quoted Text
Neal --
Really good stuff you have here. I am a sucker for interiors and a huge fan of early war armor with Pzkpfw III's and IV's being at the top of my list. Doing it DAK is just the cherry on the cake. I really dig what your doing here, as well as all of the great input from everyone else. Seriously, all those interior shots I see up here are among the best that I've ever seen. A trip to Bovington, adds just one more of many reasons to visit England. Keep up the great work...this is a thread that I will continue to follow with eagerness.
P.S. -- With all due fairness to Verlinden, at least these kits provide an affordable starting point. I paid $25 bucks for mine as a non auction item from Dragon Hobbies EBay shop. I've seen the TWS stuff, and IMHO are wildly overpriced and really soft on the detail.
Good Luck and great modelling --- Lee
Thanks Lee! I'm a sucker for the interiors as well...now that my (very, very soon to be 11 year old) eldest son, Mason did his Tiger 1.
Here are the latest pics...I'm debating the hull side hatch...I just don't want to cut it out at this point as I'm afraid I might muck things up.
Texas, United States
Joined: March 21, 2011
KitMaker: 71 posts
Armorama: 49 posts
Posted: Friday, January 27, 2012 - 04:55 PM UTC
Hi Neal,
Great work! After 26 years in the Army and collecting kits the past 8, I had acquired these kits and this build log is a great inspiration for me. This will be a great reference when I get to building mine. I still have to work on my skills and it's a slow process, so your work is inspirational for me. Thanks for taking the time to post all of this, it is much appreciated.
Cory
"Not the glow of success, but the purity of the initiative and the true dedication to duty determines the value of soldiers"
-- Field Marshal Graf von Moltke
New York, United States
Joined: January 26, 2012
KitMaker: 23 posts
Armorama: 13 posts
Posted: Friday, January 27, 2012 - 05:04 PM UTC
Neal --
My two cents for what its worth (actually about 3 in Mexico), I would open them. This is assuming that everything I see is mainly dry fitted, otherwise you may run the risk of damaging the fine work you have done so far. Still if you are patient and careful it may be done.
I think the best and safest thing to do would be to take a fine pin vise drill and very patiently follow the inside out line of the door. Drilling one tiny hole next to the other all the way around. Although slightly tedious it is a great way to remove a piece that is located on the interior of a panel. After that I would gently scribe the outline of that piece and it should pop out easily. From there I would carefully and evenly scrape and/or sand the slight ridges that you'll be left with. Keep In mind to allow for the slight lip that would be on the hull,just inside the door as well as the location of the hinge. I might even trace the outline of the door on the inside of the placement line on the hull with a fine felt tip. From there I would probably use the inner line of that as my starting point. I hope that makes sense. I've had excellent results with that method in the past for doors as well as removing crappy molded on grates from the top of Shermans and T34's. Patience will make it fairly painless to do.
Mind you I really don't mess around with the older kits these days, and I am not altogether familiar with this model. So check it against whatever reference you may have to be safe and sure about dimensions.
P.S. Check your PM, I have a very interesting PDF that I think you'll find helpful.
Good Luck! -- Lee
Pennsylvania, United States
Joined: February 14, 2011
KitMaker: 390 posts
Armorama: 387 posts
Posted: Saturday, January 28, 2012 - 05:19 AM UTC
Quoted Text
Hi Neal,
Great work! After 26 years in the Army and collecting kits the past 8, I had acquired these kits and this build log is a great inspiration for me. This will be a great reference when I get to building mine. I still have to work on my skills and it's a slow process, so your work is inspirational for me. Thanks for taking the time to post all of this, it is much appreciated.
Cory
Cory, first and foremost...thank you for your service! I am a military "brat" that washed out at physicals because of asthma and eczema...every branch...back when I turned 18. Therefore, I admire those that served proudly!
I only just got back to the hobby last year when my 10 year old (MasonTheKid here in Armorama) picked up the hobby in earnest. It started with just me directing him how to do the basics and reliving my youth in stories to him of how I dreamed of working at Sheperd Paine's level. He took to it like a duck in water so I started. The key now is that I'm learning all over again. Steven's work is my personal inspiration (thank you Steven!) and Darren Baker (CMOT) has been incredibly helpful to both Mason and myself in "getting it right".
thank you for the kind words, of course. You MUST check our Steven's builds!
Pennsylvania, United States
Joined: February 14, 2011
KitMaker: 390 posts
Armorama: 387 posts
Posted: Saturday, January 28, 2012 - 05:26 AM UTC
Quoted Text
Neal --
My two cents for what its worth (actually about 3 in Mexico), I would open them. This is assuming that everything I see is mainly dry fitted, otherwise you may run the risk of damaging the fine work you have done so far. Still if you are patient and careful it may be done.
I think the best and safest thing to do would be to take a fine pin vise drill and very patiently follow the inside out line of the door. Drilling one tiny hole next to the other all the way around. Although slightly tedious it is a great way to remove a piece that is located on the interior of a panel. After that I would gently scribe the outline of that piece and it should pop out easily. From there I would carefully and evenly scrape and/or sand the slight ridges that you'll be left with. Keep In mind to allow for the slight lip that would be on the hull,just inside the door as well as the location of the hinge. I might even trace the outline of the door on the inside of the placement line on the hull with a fine felt tip. From there I would probably use the inner line of that as my starting point. I hope that makes sense. I've had excellent results with that method in the past for doors as well as removing crappy molded on grates from the top of Shermans and T34's. Patience will make it fairly painless to do.
Mind you I really don't mess around with the older kits these days, and I am not altogether familiar with this model. So check it against whatever reference you may have to be safe and sure about dimensions.
P.S. Check your PM, I have a very interesting PDF that I think you'll find helpful.
Good Luck! -- Lee
Lee, the stuff in the pics is glued in. Therefore....
....I want to cut them out...both sides. The problem here is that the Verlinden wall braces interrupt the lines of the hull hatches. In other words, if I cut them out, the braces are going to be in the way of the opening
Because this kit isn't a good match for the Verlinden stuff, I've decided to not install the engine and save it for a better Pz. III kit. This decision came as I realized I couldn't do the hull wall hatches. This makes this build an official learning lesson for my next Pz. III...which will happen at some point.
Pennsylvania, United States
Joined: February 14, 2011
KitMaker: 390 posts
Armorama: 387 posts
Posted: Saturday, January 28, 2012 - 05:40 AM UTC
For those that don't know Shepard Paine's work...check this out:
http://www.itzproductions.com/Misc_Pages/shep_paine.htmNew York, United States
Joined: January 26, 2012
KitMaker: 23 posts
Armorama: 13 posts
Posted: Saturday, January 28, 2012 - 08:12 AM UTC
Shepard Paine was the MAN. Seriously, Those books I had of his in the early 80's were the go to Bible for this stuff. Chances are they were the first great "how to" books on the subject.
By the way, I got the Panzer III ausf H late production Smart Kit recently, and it is great. I've seen them new on ebay around $35. Well worth it.
Pennsylvania, United States
Joined: February 14, 2011
KitMaker: 390 posts
Armorama: 387 posts
Posted: Saturday, January 28, 2012 - 03:23 PM UTC
Quoted Text
Shepard Paine was the MAN. Seriously, Those books I had of his in the early 80's were the go to Bible for this stuff. Chances are they were the first great "how to" books on the subject.
By the way, I got the Panzer III ausf H late production Smart Kit recently, and it is great. I've seen them new on ebay around $35. Well worth it.
I didn't know he even had books out until joining up here. I lived for my next Monogram kit just to see his work.
Lee, I hope you're going to post a build thread here....
Pennsylvania, United States
Joined: February 14, 2011
KitMaker: 390 posts
Armorama: 387 posts
Posted: Sunday, January 29, 2012 - 04:45 AM UTC
I was able to install some additional wiring runs and conduit brackets. I'm trying to find something suitable for the circular face to the gyro compass by the driver.
Texas, United States
Joined: March 21, 2011
KitMaker: 71 posts
Armorama: 49 posts
Posted: Sunday, January 29, 2012 - 09:59 AM UTC
I fondly remember the Monogram kits back in the day. I think I built juust about all of them. The kits, if I remember correctly had Shep Paines dioramas on the box cover and an insert inside with modeling and diorama tips from him. then there is Shep Paines "How to build dioramas" and moseling armor books, which I still have!
Anyway Neal, great build log. As to the side hull escape doors, I think maybe the Verlindenn interior braces are in the way as I think the Verlinden set was intended for the Tamiya Pz III Ausf L. The Ausf L didn't have these hull escape hatches, so maybe that's the reason the braces are in the way?
"Not the glow of success, but the purity of the initiative and the true dedication to duty determines the value of soldiers"
-- Field Marshal Graf von Moltke
Pennsylvania, United States
Joined: February 14, 2011
KitMaker: 390 posts
Armorama: 387 posts
Posted: Sunday, January 29, 2012 - 01:50 PM UTC
Quoted Text
I fondly remember the Monogram kits back in the day. I think I built juust about all of them. The kits, if I remember correctly had Shep Paines dioramas on the box cover and an insert inside with modeling and diorama tips from him. then there is Shep Paines "How to build dioramas" and moseling armor books, which I still have!
Anyway Neal, great build log. As to the side hull escape doors, I think maybe the Verlindenn interior braces are in the way as I think the Verlinden set was intended for the Tamiya Pz III Ausf L. The Ausf L didn't have these hull escape hatches, so maybe that's the reason the braces are in the way?
Yup! The braces are in the way. Unfortunately, I couldn't (and still can't) find any clear pics of the Ausf. G interior hull walls to leave the braces out. In fact, everything I have show the braces and show nothing of the hatches. A very good lesson learned. With that, the big question for those building Ausf. G's (and whichever had the hatches), where were the items that are placed against the walls then?
Arkansas, United States
Joined: June 29, 2009
KitMaker: 11,610 posts
Armorama: 7,843 posts
Posted: Sunday, January 29, 2012 - 03:04 PM UTC
Some very nice work on the interior.
Ideals are peaceful. History is violent.
Texas, United States
Joined: March 08, 2010
KitMaker: 2,465 posts
Armorama: 2,383 posts
Posted: Sunday, January 29, 2012 - 03:20 PM UTC
hi Neal,
Thats some good scratch work right there man!
Gary
England - South East, United Kingdom
Joined: January 09, 2010
KitMaker: 979 posts
Armorama: 959 posts
Posted: Sunday, January 29, 2012 - 08:26 PM UTC
Great work Neal,
I believe that you should not add the escape hatch at this stage if you are not 100% confident that the rest of the impressive levels of detail will not be affected.
On the other hand, you could build the model with the escape hatch open, that would be a real treat !
To be fair to verlinden, as one of the comentators was on this blog, they are not that bad and cheaper than Aber et al. However they do not seem to continiously improve and upgrade their models as they should.
Your model is very impressive and I am looking forward to the next update.
S
#003
Donegal, Ireland
Joined: May 14, 2002
KitMaker: 9,763 posts
Armorama: 7,444 posts
Posted: Sunday, January 29, 2012 - 08:48 PM UTC
Quoted Text
Your model is very impressive and I am looking forward to the next update.
Same here. Some nice additions already made to the base interior set. Looking forward to the next updates!! Keep in mind what can be seen after closing up. No point spending days on details that wont be very visible .... these can be simplified, and more effort on the details that are closer to the hatches.
IPMS Stockholm
"The problem with common sense, is that it is not that common"
England - South East, United Kingdom
Joined: January 09, 2010
KitMaker: 979 posts
Armorama: 959 posts
Posted: Sunday, January 29, 2012 - 08:51 PM UTC
Quoted Text
Quoted Text
Your model is very impressive and I am looking forward to the next update.
Same here. Some nice additions already made to the base interior set. Looking forward to the next updates!! Keep in mind what can be seen after closing up. No point spending days on details that wont be very visible .... these can be simplified, and more effort on the details that are closer to the hatches.
You could always not glue the top of the hull to the main body of the kit and all the super detail will be available.
Pennsylvania, United States
Joined: February 14, 2011
KitMaker: 390 posts
Armorama: 387 posts
Posted: Monday, January 30, 2012 - 03:47 PM UTC
Alright, I put in the seats, hull wall shelves and the ammo cabinets. Doing so pushed the firewall back (just under) 1/16". To fix and make it believable, I pulled the firewall and connecting transmission cabinet out so I can re-situate it.
As I was surveying my predicament, Mason (whom was building a large Lego Star Wars kit near me) suggested I go ahead and try to to the tread plate flooring as it should be. I honestly think he wants to see how to make it happen, so off I go.....
Pennsylvania, United States
Joined: February 14, 2011
KitMaker: 390 posts
Armorama: 387 posts
Posted: Monday, January 30, 2012 - 03:50 PM UTC
I have to add, that I am completely considering this interior detailing as a training run for both myself and Mason.
Pennsylvania, United States
Joined: February 14, 2011
KitMaker: 390 posts
Armorama: 387 posts
Posted: Tuesday, January 31, 2012 - 05:46 AM UTC
Yesterday was Mason's 11th birthday...the first pic is of the two of us during the party.
The second pic is my attempt to fix the floor and firewall. I'm not happy with the gaps, but it's a learning lesson. The (white plastic) floor plates on the left are dry fit. I will get to the tread plate later. The round plastic discs to the right are what I'm using as spacers.
Arkansas, United States
Joined: June 29, 2009
KitMaker: 11,610 posts
Armorama: 7,843 posts
Posted: Tuesday, January 31, 2012 - 09:01 AM UTC
Mason looks just like you. Nice job on the interior, despite the problems.
Ideals are peaceful. History is violent.
Pennsylvania, United States
Joined: February 14, 2011
KitMaker: 390 posts
Armorama: 387 posts
Posted: Tuesday, January 31, 2012 - 04:12 PM UTC
Quoted Text
Mason looks just like you. Nice job on the interior, despite the problems.
Thanks! I think he's much better looking though...
The floor plates in with tread plate on....
Texas, United States
Joined: March 08, 2010
KitMaker: 2,465 posts
Armorama: 2,383 posts
Posted: Tuesday, January 31, 2012 - 04:23 PM UTC
comeing along nicely. Happy 11th birthday mason!
Gary
Pennsylvania, United States
Joined: February 14, 2011
KitMaker: 390 posts
Armorama: 387 posts
Posted: Wednesday, February 01, 2012 - 04:16 PM UTC
Thanks Gary!
I got the fire wall re-constructed and in place.
England - South East, United Kingdom
Joined: January 09, 2010
KitMaker: 979 posts
Armorama: 959 posts
Posted: Wednesday, February 01, 2012 - 08:01 PM UTC
Wow its really getting there, impressive.
S
Pennsylvania, United States
Joined: February 14, 2011
KitMaker: 390 posts
Armorama: 387 posts
Posted: Thursday, February 02, 2012 - 07:37 AM UTC
Quoted Text
Wow its really getting there, impressive.
S
Thanks Steven!
Here I added some of the bolts and hinges. The bolts are miniature nails that I pushed through drilled holes and then snipped off the sharp ends and glued to secure them. The hinges are actually from my Father-in-Law's (deceased)HO scale train parts.
