Warszawa, Poland
Joined: October 10, 2011
KitMaker: 95 posts
Armorama: 86 posts
Posted: Wednesday, February 29, 2012 - 12:53 PM UTC
Yes! Great pre-shading!

Keep it up!

#135
California, United States
Joined: August 05, 2007
KitMaker: 1,501 posts
Armorama: 1,485 posts
Posted: Wednesday, February 29, 2012 - 02:49 PM UTC
Quoted Text
Wow! Outstanding!
I've rarely seen a so good pre-shading job !
Great indeed!!
@BBD468 – Gary,
Have you attached a laser light pointer to your airbrush? That is some fancy shoot’in there! I haven’t tried pre-shading but it looks promising!
Quoted Text
i tried to download from that link and my Virus protection wont let me. not sure what to do. 
I can’t help you with this one, I don’t know if it may have something to do with how your virus program is configured? Or perhaps it showed up on your dat.files or spyware files because it recently got blacklisted for whatever reasons. Just guessing? Haven’t had an issue with Paint.net on my computer, as of YET! I’m using Symantic Endpoint Protection and managed to download the program to see if my virus scan program would stop it and it downloaded without any issues. I then executed the program and my virus scan still didn’t stop it! If I’m not back online as usual we’ll all know why . . .
~ Eddy

If you absolutely must have a city completely destroyed overnight . . . call the MARINES
Currently on the bench:
1:12 Bandia Star Wars K-2SO
1:35 Takom T-54B Late
Milano, Italy
Joined: July 13, 2010
KitMaker: 3,845 posts
Armorama: 3,543 posts
Posted: Wednesday, February 29, 2012 - 06:57 PM UTC
Quoted Text
Chris - Thanks! Track are what they are. no way im changing now!
You can make an exemplar of Lebanon war. Your track will be ok this way
Quoted Text
Have you attached a laser light pointer to your airbrush?

. Yes! It seams that you have used a marker to do your job!
...well in my opinion T-55 isn' t just a tank. Actually it is THE TANK...
Oost-Vlaanderen, Belgium
Joined: May 14, 2006
KitMaker: 3,829 posts
Armorama: 881 posts
Posted: Wednesday, February 29, 2012 - 08:37 PM UTC
OK Gary, you can come clean now and admit it's a 1/16 model!
impossible thin preshade man!
you must be a surgeon with the airbrush!
LOL
glad to heard the track problem thingy, nevermind, like M said, make a Lebanon version, or just go for the "I don't give a **** about historicaly correct, i'm going for fun and entertainment!" attitude!
don't be depressed about the lightguard accident,if it can be bent, a tankcrew will;)
greetz!
Rest in peace my dearest of friends, Mike I 'll miss ya a lot
fastest way to get killed,
messing with the man with a gun.
modelling is life, anything before or after is waiting...

#284
Northern Ireland, United Kingdom
Joined: October 04, 2006
KitMaker: 3,094 posts
Armorama: 2,942 posts
Posted: Wednesday, February 29, 2012 - 11:24 PM UTC
Stunning pre-shading- I'm in awe of it really, best pre-shading work I've seen in quite some time. As a recently departed Northern Irish comic once said, 'ITS A CRACKER!'
On The Bench:
Ethiopian BMP-1 (Trumpeter 1/35)
AMX-13/75 (Takom 1/35)
Texas, United States
Joined: March 08, 2010
KitMaker: 2,465 posts
Armorama: 2,383 posts
Posted: Thursday, March 01, 2012 - 02:14 AM UTC
Hi gentlemen,
thanks for the great comments on the preshading. i have a steady hand but i still need the proper tool to pull that off. heres the airbrush i used for preshadeing and ill use for the green camo.

i use an Iwata Eclipse HP-CS for primeing and base colors.
i will have the green on later today. ill post pics after.
Thanks guys!
Gary
Quebec, Canada
Joined: November 19, 2011
KitMaker: 1,389 posts
Armorama: 1,388 posts
Posted: Thursday, March 01, 2012 - 02:18 AM UTC
If I send you my flakpanther can you preshade it?
You are Ze Proffesor Gary! keep it up.
Philippe
Modeling...
I rest my case.
Texas, United States
Joined: March 08, 2010
KitMaker: 2,465 posts
Armorama: 2,383 posts
Posted: Thursday, March 01, 2012 - 02:24 AM UTC
Phil i would be honored to preshade your Flakpanther!

one condition, you will have to pay for the shipping both ways!
Gary
New Jersey, United States
Joined: November 02, 2009
KitMaker: 609 posts
Armorama: 433 posts
Posted: Thursday, March 01, 2012 - 02:25 AM UTC
Hi Gary - I've been in ship mode lately so I haven't spent a lot of time on Armorama lately. Glad I came back because this is great. Can I add to the requests above for all the detail you can share on how you paint and finish this one? I have a love hate relationship with my airbrush so I'm always on the lookout for color mixes, ratios, etc.
Texas, United States
Joined: March 08, 2010
KitMaker: 2,465 posts
Armorama: 2,383 posts
Posted: Thursday, March 01, 2012 - 02:40 AM UTC
Hi Bill,
come on in!

is there any specific step or question your interested in or you just gonna follow along? i would be happy to help any way i can. what type ship you working on?Thanks!
Gary
England - South East, United Kingdom
Joined: January 09, 2010
KitMaker: 979 posts
Armorama: 959 posts
Posted: Thursday, March 01, 2012 - 03:43 AM UTC
Gary, This is seriously impressive, the workmanship, the preshading really good technical skill.
I will have to get out my unpainted T-62 and improve it
I like and admire your camo schemes and this one will be impressive too I have no doubt
Texas, United States
Joined: March 08, 2010
KitMaker: 2,465 posts
Armorama: 2,383 posts
Posted: Thursday, March 01, 2012 - 06:08 AM UTC
Quoted Text
Gary, This is seriously impressive, the workmanship, the preshading really good technical skill.
I will have to get out my unpainted T-62 and improve it
I like and admire your camo schemes and this one will be impressive too I have no doubt
Thanks Steven! I admire your skills aswell.
Camo done!
Camo is XF-67 Nato Green thinned with Tamiya Lacquer thinner Approx 25% paint to 75% thinner give or take and a few drops of clear. I used the kit pattern loosely and freehanded the camo. here is 2 pics before i apllied the thinned basecoat mist.


and here are 3 pics after spraying thinned basecoat over entire model. approx 10% paint to 90% thinner. dusted over lightly about 3 times.



any questions please feel free to ask.
Thanks for looking!
Gary
Georgia, United States
Joined: January 31, 2010
KitMaker: 2,191 posts
Armorama: 1,814 posts
Posted: Thursday, March 01, 2012 - 06:35 AM UTC
I may have to try the lacquer thinner rather than the iso-alcohol I typically use. Looking good.
Join AMPS.
http://www.amps-armor.org/ampssite
Texas, United States
Joined: March 08, 2010
KitMaker: 2,465 posts
Armorama: 2,383 posts
Posted: Thursday, March 01, 2012 - 06:49 AM UTC
Quoted Text
I may have to try the lacquer thinner rather than the iso-alcohol I typically use. Looking good.
Hi Jesse,
The Tamiya yellow top lacquer thinner is the only thing i use to thin Tamiya paint now. ive got a bottle of X-20A that hasnt seen the light of day in 3 years. The Lacquer thinner works awsome. it has great etching/adhereing properties, sprays better, and my neddle never fowls with paint which it did constantly with the alcohol X-20A. however, whatever your doing and did on your T-55 is working brilliantly.
Gary
Georgia, United States
Joined: January 31, 2010
KitMaker: 2,191 posts
Armorama: 1,814 posts
Posted: Thursday, March 01, 2012 - 07:11 AM UTC
Quoted Text
Quoted Text
I may have to try the lacquer thinner rather than the iso-alcohol I typically use. Looking good.
Hi Jesse,
The Tamiya yellow top lacquer thinner is the only thing i use to thin Tamiya paint now. ive got a bottle of X-20A that hasnt seen the light of day in 3 years. The Lacquer thinner works awsome. it has great etching/adhereing properties, sprays better, and my neddle never fowls with paint which it did constantly with the alcohol X-20A. however, whatever your doing and did on your T-55 is working brilliantly.
Gary
Any idea if the Tamiya yellow top stuff is significantly different than regular store bought lacquer thinner? Because I do have some of that sitting around.
The T-55 did turn out well, but the clogged tip every couple mins gets old in a hurry, and I'm always looking for ways to improve.
Join AMPS.
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Milano, Italy
Joined: July 13, 2010
KitMaker: 3,845 posts
Armorama: 3,543 posts
Posted: Thursday, March 01, 2012 - 07:28 AM UTC
Quoted Text
Quoted Text
I may have to try the lacquer thinner rather than the iso-alcohol I typically use. Looking good.
Hi Jesse,
The Tamiya yellow top lacquer thinner is the only thing i use to thin Tamiya paint now. ive got a bottle of X-20A that hasnt seen the light of day in 3 years. The Lacquer thinner works awsome. it has great etching/adhereing properties, sprays better, and my neddle never fowls with paint which it did constantly with the alcohol X-20A. however, whatever your doing and did on your T-55 is working brilliantly.
Gary
So your AB has teflon seals hasn't it?
Great job indeed Gary. I've heard that many guys use lacquer thinner to dilute Tamiya paints. I have Tamiya lacquer thinner but i use it just to dilute the putty.
i think i'll give you a try using my old AB, which is a Paasche V and which has seals made in teflon
Thanks for sharing tips
Cheers
...well in my opinion T-55 isn' t just a tank. Actually it is THE TANK...
Texas, United States
Joined: March 08, 2010
KitMaker: 2,465 posts
Armorama: 2,383 posts
Posted: Thursday, March 01, 2012 - 11:33 AM UTC
Hi fellas,
I have had this explained to me before but i dont remember all the details but as i understand Tamiya is acrylic but its specially formulated so its not a "true" acrylic like vallejo. the Tamiya Lacquer thinner is specially made for Tamiya paint. Regular lacquer thinner like Kleanstrip is way too hot. the Kleanstrip is what i flush my airbrush with, but it will melt plastic pretty quick. my Iwata eclipse has seen alot of action in the last 4 yrs. and the teflon seal withstood the hot lacquer thinner for nearly that long as i just recently replaced it.
Matthew Toms aka SSGToms can explain it completely if you want to PM him. He a walking encyclopedia on stuff like this. he can set it straight.
Gary

#135
California, United States
Joined: August 05, 2007
KitMaker: 1,501 posts
Armorama: 1,485 posts
Posted: Thursday, March 01, 2012 - 01:57 PM UTC
@BBD468 – Gary,
Man, that looks really good. I like the translucent feathering between the two colors, not so easily achieved without having to go out and get a precession made airbrush like that Iwata you’re using. I can't make out the model number on your airbrush from the photograph you posted due to the slight glare coming off the chrome on the airbrush, so how about some text, Gary. I'm able to make out HP-6?
No choice, I’ll have to get my hands on one of those beauties. Time to do some surf’n on the net!
~ Eddy

If you absolutely must have a city completely destroyed overnight . . . call the MARINES
Currently on the bench:
1:12 Bandia Star Wars K-2SO
1:35 Takom T-54B Late
Texas, United States
Joined: March 08, 2010
KitMaker: 2,465 posts
Armorama: 2,383 posts
Posted: Thursday, March 01, 2012 - 03:10 PM UTC
Quoted Text
@BBD468 – Gary,
Man, that looks really good. I like the translucent feathering between the two colors, not so easily achieved without having to go out and get a precession made airbrush like that Iwata you’re using. I can't make out the model number on your airbrush from the photograph you posted due to the slight glare coming off the chrome on the airbrush, so how about some text, Gary. I'm able to make out HP-6?
No choice, I’ll have to get my hands on one of those beauties. Time to do some surf’n on the net!
~ Eddy 
Hey Eddy,
Thanks man! Here is a link to the exact airbrush and company that i bought mine.
http://www.merriartist.com/Iwata_B_plus_high_performance_airbrush_p/i-h-2001.htmThey will pretty much beat any price and they have free shipping. they are very friendly as well. ive ordered both my air brushes there and they kicked the crap out of eveyone else price at the time. but that was 3 years ago. could be different price now.
Gary
Texas, United States
Joined: March 08, 2010
KitMaker: 2,465 posts
Armorama: 2,383 posts
Posted: Thursday, March 01, 2012 - 04:36 PM UTC
hi all,
kinda bored waiting for paint to dry so thought id throw another pic at ya.

Thanks every one for following! im haveing a blast with you guys!
Gary
Georgia, United States
Joined: January 31, 2010
KitMaker: 2,191 posts
Armorama: 1,814 posts
Posted: Friday, March 02, 2012 - 01:16 AM UTC
The other place to check is Dickblick art supplies.
http://www.dickblick.com/products/iwata-hp-plus-series-airbrushes/Their list price is higher, but if you look at the very top of the page, they have a 20% off list price + free shipping coupon.
Join AMPS.
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Texas, United States
Joined: October 21, 2004
KitMaker: 128 posts
Armorama: 119 posts
Posted: Friday, March 02, 2012 - 02:47 AM UTC
Drooooool!
Man, that sure would look good on the shelf with my Shot Kal. Time to talk trade perhaps??
On the Bench:
AFV Club Shot Kal - 50%
DML Panther G w/Zim - 25%
Texas, United States
Joined: March 08, 2010
KitMaker: 2,465 posts
Armorama: 2,383 posts
Posted: Friday, March 02, 2012 - 07:25 AM UTC
Quoted Text
Drooooool!
Man, that sure would look good on the shelf with my Shot Kal. Time to talk trade perhaps??
Hey nephew! you got to finish that Shot kal before we can talk. but i no you, ill have three more built by the time you finish the one!
Hey Jesse, thanks for the link man!
Gary
Indiana, United States
Joined: October 02, 2008
KitMaker: 119 posts
Armorama: 118 posts
Posted: Friday, March 02, 2012 - 10:47 AM UTC
Very nice camo work.
I am anxious to see it weathered
and beat up.
John
All of life's little problems can be solved with the propper application of plastique explosives.
Quebec, Canada
Joined: November 19, 2011
KitMaker: 1,389 posts
Armorama: 1,388 posts
Posted: Friday, March 02, 2012 - 11:09 AM UTC
Hi Gary,
Did you masked the road wheels or free handed it?
Phil
Modeling...
I rest my case.