Яusso-Soviэt Forum: Cold War Soviet Armor
For discussions related to cold war era Russo-Soviet armor.
T-72 M1
asmodeuss
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Posted: Tuesday, December 04, 2012 - 10:51 AM UTC
Thanks Mauro, I'll scavenge around see what I can find.
Braille
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Posted: Tuesday, December 04, 2012 - 10:56 AM UTC
@asmodeuss – Philippe,

Good start, I can’t see the first pics you posted, what’s up with that?

I too don’t know a thing about these vehicles but this blog is going to yield a wealth of information via Mauro ‘Spicerfrommars’ and others that may happen by to post? Always good to learn something new and good to have someone that knows provide the information.

I’m not promising when I will get this out (hopefully very soon) but I just started a feature entitled ‘Easy Step by Step Hand Soldering’. Been hand soldering for most of my life (electronics, PC boards and industrial and military stuff). I hope this article will serve as a benefit for everyone wishing to get down and fix those small PE parts together. Expect to spend at least $120.00 for the soldering iron station, tips, solder, flux and other needed stuff. Aren’t most of us already spending at least this much on a current 35th scale kit, aftermarket PE, barrel, tracks, resin upgrades and sometimes reference books? Get your two cents ready kids, hihi.

~ Eddy
Braille
#135
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Posted: Tuesday, December 04, 2012 - 11:40 AM UTC
@asmodeuss – Philippe,


Quoted Text

Yes indeed I already know that but...I'm not sure what I'll use for the tubes!?




Quoted Text

if I were you I'd use some wire made of lead or tin. They are easy to bend, so it would be quite easy for you to replicate the exact shape of the actual tubes



You could easy wrap 30 gauge un-plated or plated copper wire around 15 – 22 gauge or larger electrical buss wire (sold in electronic shops) to replicate these lines. My motor-tool is attached to a speed controlled foot pedal that I acquired at a beauty supply store. This keeps the speed on the motor-tool down to a very controllable 20 rpm, perfect for most modeling jobs. Adding more pressure to the foot pedal increases the speed if needed. This coupled with the speed control wheel on the motor-tool gives me a huge range of slow speeds. You simply attach a straight length of buss wire to the motor-tool and feed the small gage wire with your free hand giving you a uniform spun wire wrap. To straighten the buss wire, simply place the cut length of buss wire between your workstation matt and a piece of flat wood and with hand pressure roll the wood across the buss wire, bam straight wire and ready for adding the wire to the motor-tool. To secure the wires together you simply coat them with Future / Kleer floor wax. This will allow you to cut the finished hose and bend it into shape without the outer wire separating from the buss wire and getting weird.

Hope this helps,
~ Eddy
asmodeuss
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Posted: Tuesday, December 04, 2012 - 02:12 PM UTC
WOWEE Eddy! I wan't this soldering sbs Very nice of you! I've already asked for a soldering iron Something like the hakko fx 888. lets hope santa find me on the NICE list even if i've been naughty

The tube thing I will definitly try I'll build myself a jig to turn the wire.

Yes Mauro and Walter are a welcome relief since I am not well aware of the russian mather.

The mesh arrived this morning and it is awesome.
Thx a million mate

Philippe.
asmodeuss
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Posted: Tuesday, December 04, 2012 - 02:15 PM UTC
In essence voila the deleted pics:



I had two gallery of the t-72 and deleted the one with 3 pics in it.
Spiderfrommars
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Posted: Tuesday, December 04, 2012 - 05:08 PM UTC
You could also use copper or brass wires (it'll be easier for you to find the right gauge this way) but you should burn them on a kitchen flame before use. As you know copper is stiffer than lead but the burning process can reduce the metal tempering effects, so your wires will become far more malleable.



@Eddy thanks a million for the tip! Sharing advice is one of the most interesting things which is possible to do on Armorama
asmodeuss
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Posted: Wednesday, December 05, 2012 - 02:11 AM UTC

Quoted Text

You could also use copper or brass wires (it'll be easier for you to find the right gauge this way) but you should burn them on a kitchen flame before use. As you know copper is stiffer than lead but the burning process can reduce the metal tempering effects, so your wires will become far more malleable.



@Eddy thanks a million for the tip! Sharing advice is one of the most interesting things which is possible to do on Armorama



Hoho! another tips! I like. If I fail to recreate the effect of the tubes i'll go with strait copper wire and will surely burn it with a flame...I,ve got an electric range...Hmmmmm Italy I'd love to get there and enjoy the food and sun.

Thanks again Mauro.
asmodeuss
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Posted: Wednesday, December 05, 2012 - 02:59 AM UTC
Here is a small update on the rear glacis. I've glued on one of the spare tracks straps, the other one will be empty. 3 out of 4 fuel drum support done...it is going better and better even with ca glue! As you can see I've flush cutted the tam parts of the fuel drum support and shaved the arm part that goes in the hull for the pe part ton insert(hope I,m making some sens). Some clean up is still needed to smooth things, nothing worth worrying. finally will be the log holding device.



Tha barrel is there for pics only it'll be on the other side.

Phil.
BBD468
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Posted: Wednesday, December 05, 2012 - 03:02 AM UTC
Hey Philippe,

Great update on the T-72 bro...looks nice!!!

What brand is the metal barrel you have? The process of heating the copper is called Annealing. You can also do this to any parts of your PE that you need to make more plyable - very handy.

Brother Phil, ill meet you at the airport when you go to Italy...dont you leave without me!!! Mauro, youll be pickin us up right?

Gary
asmodeuss
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Posted: Wednesday, December 05, 2012 - 03:12 AM UTC
Haha! ok Gary we'll meet up at the airport
The brand is unknown my friend I bought it at jb model and it is like you see it the only marking it bares is: l/48 125mm t-72 the item number is:35b102. 8 bucks it was I think.

Tojo72
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Posted: Wednesday, December 05, 2012 - 03:18 AM UTC
nice project that you have going there,looking good.
asmodeuss
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Posted: Wednesday, December 05, 2012 - 02:11 PM UTC
Thanks Anthony!

Hey guys, here is what I received today...Black friday special on spruebros....They totally owned me with the e-mail notice...DAMN YOU SWEET PERSONALISED PUBLICITY!!



The savings were soooooo good

Anyway more of the t-72 soon.
BBD468
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Posted: Wednesday, December 05, 2012 - 03:06 PM UTC

Quoted Text

They totally owned me with the e-mail notice...DAMN YOU SWEET PERSONALISED PUBLICITY!!



(((LOL))) Sunk tha hooks in deep didnt they?

Now....whats it gonna take to talk you out of that SWEET 10/5 Flak 38 kit??? Nice goodies brother!

Gary
Tanksami
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Posted: Wednesday, December 05, 2012 - 03:23 PM UTC
Phil,

The T72 is looking fantastic loving what you are doing with it!!!

Eddie I would love to read you SBS on soldering as well, the couple of times i have tried wound up with me saying Houston we have a problem lol

Cheers Mike
Spiderfrommars
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Posted: Wednesday, December 05, 2012 - 10:06 PM UTC
Well, guys, I'll be glad to meet you!

Those delicious "cooked wires" which you'll eat here in Italy, are "spaghetti"



...Luckily they are not "cooked copper wires"!

cheers
asmodeuss
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Posted: Thursday, December 06, 2012 - 01:27 AM UTC
Haha! I knew you would like the flak Gary!

Thanks for the good words Mike. Always flattering to have good builders following your work

Mauro, I'd love those cooked wires they seems delicious, with a good amarone wine I think me and Mace would be in the zone!

Thanks peeps, i'll update tonight when I come back from work.

Spiderfrommars
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Posted: Thursday, December 06, 2012 - 01:32 AM UTC
Do you even know Amarone wine?

One of the best (and rarest) Italian wines

I'm really impressed!
asmodeuss
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Posted: Thursday, December 06, 2012 - 02:01 AM UTC
My favorite ripasso is the amarone montresor that we can get here, I buy it two or three time a year to drink with my wife over a nice dinner. So Amarone it will be when we meets gents!

have a nice day you all!
grunt136mike
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Posted: Thursday, December 06, 2012 - 08:42 AM UTC
Hi Phill;
I was just wondering On the Barrel isent it in 1/35 ? Also i had the same one, and it was Impossible too get it it put together After several trys i finally ended up Throwing it into the Gulf of Mexico. You WILL need a soldering iron to affix the Barrel Bands too stay on!
I finally ended up Buying Model Points Barrel there by far the BEST on the Market.
GOOD LUCK; MIKE.
asmodeuss
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Posted: Thursday, December 06, 2012 - 10:14 AM UTC
HOOooo Crappydipoop! ok....Thx mike! Glad you called this one, no wonder it is 8 bucks hehe I'll get my hands on a Model points barrel (didn't know them) I'll give it a try anyway, since I'll surely get a soldering station for x-mas. It'll be a cheap thing on wich I'll try my inexistent soldering skill And yes it is 1/35...almost bought a 1/72 tough hehe

Btw, Eddy I would love to get a sbs on soldering for christmas...Just saying


BBD468
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Posted: Thursday, December 06, 2012 - 02:49 PM UTC
Hey Phil,

Dont throw the barrel away if it dont work - ill take it off your hands. We can work somthing out bro. But i do hope it works! Good luck my friend!

Gary
asmodeuss
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Posted: Friday, December 07, 2012 - 01:39 AM UTC
Do not worry Master Windu. If I have no use for it I'll send it to you no charge.

asmodeuss
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Posted: Friday, December 07, 2012 - 01:55 AM UTC
Here is some progres.. not much but I`ve been busy elsewhere(you know, the other work )



It is getting together well I've learned to live with ca glue for the moment being

Anyways, thanks for watching...Any comments?

BBD468
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Posted: Friday, December 07, 2012 - 03:14 PM UTC
Hey Phil,

Looks like you still have it goin' your way brotha! You having CA glue prob's bro? Keep it comin' man!!!

Gary
asmodeuss
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Posted: Saturday, December 08, 2012 - 04:26 AM UTC
Thanks Gary. CA problems....I think it is just the way CA is It builds my patience.
Back to it now!