@Philippe – asmodeuss,
Hope you enjoy reading through this while sipping some coffee? Thanks for posting the deleted pic, just for me, hihi!
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Looks like an RB aluminum barrel? And Voyager PE to decorate the Tamiya T72 M1, it’s starting to look like Christmas!
Glad to hear the copper screen meshing I sent you finally arrived, maybe someone at Customs had been thinking of keeping it for their armor project
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–
NOT.
I had already gotten most of the photographs taken of the needed items for the soldering SBS when my Kodac camera decided to let me know that the memory card needed to be formatted right in the middle of downloading them to the computer.
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Losing photographs this way had already happened a number of times before, to both my wife and I. Anyhow, she went out and surprised me with a new camera.
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So I’ll be shooting photographs again in between a braille build that I have been posting over in the Braille forum. Sorry, but no SBS by Christmas, too many logs in the fire here at home. Your making good headway on the PE in spite of the angry CA gods.
@Spiderfrommars – Mauro,
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You could also use copper or brass wires (it'll be easier for you to find the right gauge this way) but you should burn them on a kitchen flame before use. As you know copper is stiffer than lead but the burning process can reduce the metal tempering effects, so your wires will become far more malleable.
Thanks for amending the tip I posted. I don’t think my wife will be too upset if I am standing in front of the stove as long as I am cooking something for her and I.
Like yourself I too am happy to share and help, it makes this hobby that much more enjoyable for everyone. BTW that spaghetti pic you posted sure looks mighty good, humm!
@Tanksami – Mike,
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Eddie I would love to read you SBS on soldering as well, the couple of times i have tried wound up with me saying Houston we have a problem lol
Too funny, Mike!
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Thanks for the laughter – needed it!!! Thanks for your interest in the SBS soldering, when I’m finished with the text, proof reading and photographs I will submit it as a Feature here in Armorama. There has been a number of topics posted on soldering but I think what is really needed is a simple, easy, effective and not so costly way of soldering photo-etched parts. Photo-intense and keeping things simple is the key. If a cave man like myself can do it, anyone can do it!
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You having CA glue prob's bro? - Gary
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Thanks Gary. CA problems....I think it is just the way CA is, it builds my patience. - Philippe
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CA glue has mood swings, some days it does what you want, other days it don’t, on the days it don’t, do something else. - Matt
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Today it did what I wanted! - Philippe
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Worked on the exhaust today...intricate indeed and time consuming. And the CA god wasn't on my side....But, the force prevailed. - Philippe
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Next some major cleaning on the upper hull and.....tiny PE with CA glue again! - Philippe
Having CA issues? CA not co-operating? CA wanting to do what it wants to do without any regard for your authority? Well, it’s time for the CA poe-poe (police)!!!
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TIP: Use a medium sanding stick to abrade the PE where you’re going to place the CA. This gives the CA something to hold onto. Place a small amount of CA on a piece of wax paper. This should keep the CA from setting up and last thru one modeling session (wax paper repels water, water is what causes the CA to harden as do your hand oils / moisture). Add talcum powder to the CA. CA’s tensile strength is king but it has no shear strength, so by adding the talcum powder you’ve added the needed shear strength. Never apply accelerator directly to the CA, this shocks the CA and makes it weak – easy to shatter. Add accelerator via a dampened micro brush near enough to the CA to have it run over to the CA. Unlike water accelerator exhibits almost no adhesion so it easily spreads. For small PE parts or parts that will be placed on the model that will not have any tension on them use Future / Kleer. This amazing floor wax is self-leveling, dries thin and rock hard and has the stamp of approval from the modeling gods. If you need to remove any PE after the wax sets up just use an alcohol dampened ear swab or brush. No muss no fuss! I keep a small bottle (used Testors liquid cement jar) and a No.1 paint brush on the workstation and let my wife know its for keeping the bench waxed and clean, hihi!
Hope this helps,
~ Eddy