Lisboa, Portugal
Joined: March 04, 2008
KitMaker: 5,386 posts
Armorama: 4,727 posts
Posted: Sunday, March 22, 2015 - 08:48 PM UTC
Quoted Text
Its one of the toughest kits i've ever built. Really, not for beginners. But very exiting.
Little scared about painting job 4 this model))
It's looking great so far Oleg !!!
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Novosibirsk, Russia
Joined: October 08, 2014
KitMaker: 15 posts
Armorama: 15 posts
Posted: Sunday, March 22, 2015 - 08:49 PM UTC
Thank you))
But i'm getting little afraid of the amount of painting work on it. Realy. Base highlights + camo HL.. at least 2-o weeks only on base color))
I've realized the scale of the problem, after I've got in to))
As usual..
Lisboa, Portugal
Joined: March 04, 2008
KitMaker: 5,386 posts
Armorama: 4,727 posts
Posted: Sunday, March 22, 2015 - 09:46 PM UTC
Quoted Text
Thank you))
But i'm getting little afraid of the amount of painting work on it. Realy. Base highlights + camo HL.. at least 2-o weeks only on base color))
I've realized the scale of the problem, after I've got in to))
As usual..
you're doing a 3 tone camo ?
Look at the bright side, for you're next Dragon kit I'll know what to expect...
I see you've already put all the equipment on the fenders.. next time paint them separately and add them after the camo paint.
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Novosibirsk, Russia
Joined: October 08, 2014
KitMaker: 15 posts
Armorama: 15 posts
Posted: Monday, March 23, 2015 - 11:40 PM UTC
Quoted Text
you're doing a 3 tone camo ?
Look at the bright side, for you're next Dragon kit I'll know what to expect...
I see you've already put all the equipment on the fenders.. next time paint them separately and add them after the camo paint.
Yep, I think I'll go with 3-tone from dragon manual paint scheme.
After spending some time searching acceptable camo, i've got nothing i like, so will try to extend my exp in camo painting))
Ah... equipment on board is not a big deal, by my mind. On this model i painted, while it was already int place.
Problem with stug, that it has to much separate armor plates, different angles, and hard-reaching places on board.
Sorry for my english, didnt have much practice in it last time))
United States
Joined: June 04, 2014
KitMaker: 137 posts
Armorama: 128 posts
Posted: Thursday, March 26, 2015 - 07:56 AM UTC
This is the next update in my continuing build log on the Panzer Beob. Wg. IV. My next objective was to get the running gear and tracks installed. Before attaching them to the hull, however, I painted the hull red primer. This occurred for a few months at the end of 1944. Note that I am not saying it was the base for the camouflage but only that the lower hull was left red primer while the upper hull and turret were painted in standard dunkelgelb, rotbraun (not primer red!) and olivgruen. Here is a frontal view of one panzer IV painted in this fashion:
So first I painted the lower hull sides and return rollers primer red:
Then painted the drive sprockets, idlers and wheels separately, before attaching to the hull:
Then attached the tracks, link by link. Very time consuming - I would recommend (and I intend to do this in the future) that the running gear and tracks be assembled BEFORE adding the fenders and upper hull as this will give you a lot more working room.
I also added a spare track bar to the bow plate as one was not included in the kit:
And that's all for this installment. Thanks for following.
#186
Texas, United States
Joined: May 24, 2006
KitMaker: 771 posts
Armorama: 750 posts
Posted: Saturday, March 28, 2015 - 09:22 PM UTC
First in progress shots, and I'm sorry to start with a gripe. This is the 2nd DML vehicle I've built mounting the 37mm Flak gun, and I hate the shell catcher! The frame is very flimsy, and when you try to attach the rather stiff PE mesh the frame tends to come apart in one or more of the places I've added the arrows. After two failed attempts, I'm going to hit the store and find a cloth type mesh to substitute for the PE.
The hull goes together pretty much like any other DML Pz IV. Going to start on the Model Kasten tracks next.
Dalarnas, Sweden
Joined: March 24, 2006
KitMaker: 2,093 posts
Armorama: 1,359 posts
Posted: Saturday, March 28, 2015 - 11:12 PM UTC
Hi Guy, have you tried heating the p.e.? Heat it above a candleflame until it glows and changes color. After that it will be much softer and more pliable.
Working on:
Reworking Italeri/Zvezda T 34/76
http://scalemodelling-by-ron.blogspot.se/
#186
Texas, United States
Joined: May 24, 2006
KitMaker: 771 posts
Armorama: 750 posts
Posted: Sunday, March 29, 2015 - 02:56 AM UTC
Quoted Text
Hi Guy, have you tried heating the p.e.? Heat it above a candleflame until it glows and changes color. After that it will be much softer and more pliable.
I'll try it Ron, my fear is that the thin mesh will just burn up.
Namabiiru
Associate Editor #399
Rhode Island, United States
Joined: March 05, 2014
KitMaker: 2,888 posts
Armorama: 1,920 posts
Posted: Monday, March 30, 2015 - 04:24 AM UTC
Quoted Text
Quoted Text
Hi Guy, have you tried heating the p.e.? Heat it above a candleflame until it glows and changes color. After that it will be much softer and more pliable.
I'll try it Ron, my fear is that the thin mesh will just burn up.
Try putting the mesh on a larger piece of aluminum or other sheet metal, and then heat that over a candle or on the stove. The aluminum should distribute the heat enough that you don't burn up the PE.
#186
Texas, United States
Joined: May 24, 2006
KitMaker: 771 posts
Armorama: 750 posts
Posted: Monday, March 30, 2015 - 05:32 AM UTC
Cool, thanks Mark, I'll try that!
United States
Joined: November 10, 2014
KitMaker: 668 posts
Armorama: 456 posts
Posted: Monday, March 30, 2015 - 08:03 AM UTC
Quoted Text
That looks like a lot of wheely small parts
I've never had a kit that had separate tires for the road wheels, but I like the idea. Must greatly simplify painting.
. You have to make sure there's no paint on the mating surfaces . The thickness of the paint can cause the tires when put on the rim to split .
United States
Joined: November 10, 2014
KitMaker: 668 posts
Armorama: 456 posts
Posted: Monday, March 30, 2015 - 08:08 AM UTC
Quoted Text
Quoted Text
Hi Guy, have you tried heating the p.e.? Heat it above a candleflame until it glows and changes color. After that it will be much softer and more pliable.
I'll try it Ron, my fear is that the thin mesh will just burn up.
. Use a candle not a butane torch or lighter .
Louisiana, United States
Joined: March 06, 2010
KitMaker: 3,128 posts
Armorama: 2,959 posts
Posted: Monday, March 30, 2015 - 10:28 PM UTC
You are trying to anneal your PE.
Annealing is not "all or nothing" - a degree of annealing is A-OK to make your brass easier to bend and form! It does NOT have to glow red or incandesce to be suitably annealed - really all you need to achieve is some heat-discoloration.
"Once burned, twice shy": I have accidentally melted down all of one small PE bit. To prevent melt-downs, I always use a low-output flame - a (mounted, stable) candle, as Edmund stated -, and always approach that flame by lowering my piece DOWN into the heat column from overhead until it just starts to brown and maybe just begin to seem like it might start glowing. Watch the smallest, thinnest part of the bit - this will heat most first. As the candle heat-column is narrow, you can move the piece around to selectively heat some parts more than others - annealing where you want to bend softens that area, while doing less elsewhere helps keep the rest of the bit a bit stiffer and thus reduces accidental bending and deformation.
Just a suggestion!!!
Bob
#186
Texas, United States
Joined: May 24, 2006
KitMaker: 771 posts
Armorama: 750 posts
Posted: Tuesday, March 31, 2015 - 12:05 AM UTC
Thanks Bob. I'm going to wait for the weekend when I won't feel hurried and give these suggestions a try.
Namabiiru
Associate Editor #399
Rhode Island, United States
Joined: March 05, 2014
KitMaker: 2,888 posts
Armorama: 1,920 posts
Posted: Tuesday, March 31, 2015 - 03:44 AM UTC
I have an electric range at home, which is what I use. Just place the PE on the element and turn on the heat. It has a few advantages: It heats slowly, it can heat an entire PE sheet at one go (if you want to do that), and I can adjust the temperature until I get it where I want it.
Not saying it's the best way, but it's what I use and it's worked pretty well.
Canelones, Uruguay
Joined: December 27, 2006
KitMaker: 773 posts
Armorama: 765 posts
Posted: Friday, April 03, 2015 - 07:23 AM UTC
Hi
I reach this point.
Regards from the south
Alvaro
North-West, South Africa
Joined: September 12, 2012
KitMaker: 88 posts
Armorama: 49 posts
Posted: Friday, April 03, 2015 - 11:33 PM UTC
Quick update, primer and base coat done.
Making slow progress with the tracks, 1 side done.
Wojewodztwo Slaskie, Poland
Joined: October 21, 2003
KitMaker: 529 posts
Armorama: 500 posts
Posted: Saturday, April 04, 2015 - 01:36 PM UTC
ColinEdm
Associate Editor Alberta, Canada
Joined: October 15, 2013
KitMaker: 1,355 posts
Armorama: 1,229 posts
Posted: Wednesday, April 08, 2015 - 08:39 AM UTC
The voices are back.....excellent....
#041
Kobenhavn, Denmark
Joined: July 20, 2006
KitMaker: 10,069 posts
Armorama: 4,677 posts
Posted: Wednesday, April 08, 2015 - 02:12 PM UTC
Looks good, Pawel. Looking forward to see what camouflage you choose for this one.
Colin, beautifully executed camouflage. Looks very realistic and has a "casual" feel to it and very much to scale like a 50mm person painted it. Difficult to explain, but looks great
Campaign'oholic - 252+ campaigns completed
Georgia, United States
Joined: July 26, 2013
KitMaker: 2,272 posts
Armorama: 1,860 posts
Posted: Wednesday, April 08, 2015 - 10:18 PM UTC
Hey Colin:
Quoted Text
Some progress on my Mobelwagen, base coat and camo done, now onto barrel, rubber and details! I know the supports for the side armour wouldn't stand out like that, just put the armour up for painting and weathering.
I am currently finishing one of these right now, and yours looks great. Have to point out, unfortunately, that those supports actually attach to the folding plate, not the chassis. They hang on little hinges. The spots on the chassis are just little shelves to land the end of the support on. Check the pic:
On the Campaign Trail:
Tank Destroyer 2020
ColinEdm
Associate Editor Alberta, Canada
Joined: October 15, 2013
KitMaker: 1,355 posts
Armorama: 1,229 posts
Posted: Wednesday, April 08, 2015 - 11:37 PM UTC
Thanks Jesper!
Shell, thanks, yep, like I said, I only have the armoured sides up to do the painting. when done they will come down and the supports will fit into the hinges. It was just easier to do it this way for me. Maybe I should have made the hinges on those workable...
Cheers
The voices are back.....excellent....
United States
Joined: June 04, 2014
KitMaker: 137 posts
Armorama: 128 posts
Posted: Sunday, April 12, 2015 - 09:45 AM UTC
Texas, United States
Joined: February 22, 2008
KitMaker: 5,026 posts
Armorama: 1,604 posts
Posted: Saturday, April 18, 2015 - 02:31 AM UTC
Oleg: really nice build.
Kevin, Paweł, Colin, and Robert: nice job so far.
I am joining late with my Monogram 1/32 PANZER IV, I am about to give the parts a bath.
Bob
If it aint broke dont fix it.
Queensland, Australia
Joined: October 13, 2009
KitMaker: 223 posts
Armorama: 224 posts
Posted: Saturday, April 18, 2015 - 01:29 PM UTC
Hi all,
I am starting with the old Tamiya Flakpanzer IV Mobelwagen.