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WWII Panther Tanks!
Nito74
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Lisboa, Portugal
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Posted: Thursday, November 20, 2014 - 03:08 PM UTC

Quoted Text


@John, cool turret and road wheels. How did you paint the rubber? By hand?

Keith



Yes, I gave 2 coats of Dark Yellow Tamyia Spray Can and painted the rubber by hand with a thin brush.
JoeOsborne
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California, United States
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Posted: Thursday, November 20, 2014 - 07:41 PM UTC
Here's my update...

After twice stripping the paint ... first time because I just didn't like the dunkelgelb color from Lifecolor..and the second because I made a dumba$$ mistake I switched off to Vallejo paints and had much better success including handpainting the cammo as it's a hard edge. My surprise was how well Model Air paint brushed. Needed two coats, but it worked really well.


So here it is in it's final cammo with a tone coat. Next step weathering with oils.













Motives
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Stockholm, Sweden
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Posted: Thursday, November 20, 2014 - 07:55 PM UTC

Quoted Text


@Johan, your tool racks and skirts came out nice! Again, its an inspiration to me to get to all that PE.



Thanks!
Regarding the magic tracks, my method is as follows:
- Temporarily glue all the running gear in place with white glue

- Build lengths of magic tracks. I usually do one for the top and one for the bottom.

- Glue lightly and wrap track around running gear (Leave one link on each end unglued)

- Adjust sag & fix in place if needed

- Let set

- Deconstruct and remove everything. I'm then left with two "halves" of track for each side. (You can see them in the last photo i posted) I find that this makes it easier to re-attach the track back to the running gear rather than having one "loop". Then paint and weather off the vehicle.
woltersk
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Posted: Thursday, November 20, 2014 - 11:03 PM UTC

Quoted Text


Quoted Text


@John, cool turret and road wheels. How did you paint the rubber? By hand?

Keith



Yes, I gave 2 coats of Dark Yellow Tamyia Spray Can and painted the rubber by hand with a thin brush.



John,
From what I can tell they came out nice and even with little excess getting on the wheel--as if you had used a mask. I do the same method, but have to use a wash to blend in where the rubber meets the wheel, to help hide the errors.

Do you put each wheel on a stick and spin it against the brush vs dragging the brush around the wheel?

Thanks,

Keith
woltersk
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Posted: Thursday, November 20, 2014 - 11:14 PM UTC
@Jeff and Johan,
Thanks for the quick replies. Yeah, I've used that track assembly method, once, on a King Tiger...



...and I was hoping to avoid having to use it again, thinking the Magic Tracks might be more magical than that.
Okay, I'll break out the extra long container lid, masking tape, slow setting glue, patience, nerves, etc.

Keith
woltersk
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Posted: Thursday, November 20, 2014 - 11:24 PM UTC

Quoted Text


Q1 - nothing.
Q2 - connect, glue, and then wrap around the wheels.
Q3 - the links nominated for use on the drive sprockets are very slightly different from the other Magic Tracks and are designed to fit around the curve.
Q4 - fine tip brush and a steady hand. Slip a piece of paper under them once they're on the vehicle so as not to get too much paint where you don't want it.
Q5 - everybody has their own opinion. Do whatever you think is best. If you have a look at my Panther D pics, you'll find that I painted the tools off the vehicle and then attached them.

Regards

Rob



@Rob,
Thanks for the quick reply.
very slightly different from the other Magic Tracks and are designed to fit around the curve.
Q4 - fine tip brush and a steady hand. Slip a piece of paper under them once they're on the vehicle so as not to get too much paint where you don't want it.
Q5 - everybody has their own opinion. Do whatever you think is best. If you have a look at my Panther D pics, you'll find that I painted the tools off the vehicle and then attached them.

Regards

Rob[/quote]

@Rob,
Thanks for the quick reply. See below:

Q1 - nothing. --That cracked me up!
Q2 - connect, glue, and then wrap around the wheels. --I've done this method before, and was hoping to avoid doing it again.
Q3 - the links nominated for use on the drive sprockets are very slightly different from the other Magic Tracks and are designed to fit around the curve. --Links being links, and this kit being supposedly accurate, you'd think any link would work anywhere!
Q4 - fine tip brush and a steady hand. Slip a piece of paper under them once they're on the vehicle so as not to get too much paint where you don't want it. --I had thought of that.
Q5 - everybody has their own opinion. Do whatever you think is best. If you have a look at my Panther D pics, you'll find that I painted the tools off the vehicle and then attached them. --This is what I usually do, but I've never built tools with all that PE which wraps over, under, and around the tools. I'll experiment and see what I can leave off and paint vs should be attached prior to paint.

Thanks again,

Keith


woltersk
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Posted: Thursday, November 20, 2014 - 11:37 PM UTC

Quoted Text

Hey Keith!

They're called 'Magic Tracks' because one... they simply are not on a sprue and are easy to set up. Meaning, using a jig or tape you just run a thin line of slow setting liquid cement (like a Revell) on each side of the tracks and it allows them to slightly bend into place. Other glues might set up too fast and not allow the tracks to work into place.

On the tools, I always like to add them later so painting them separate can be done, depending on how easy it would be to paint them on the tank. It's basically your call as to what's easier or that you're comfortable with.

I hope I made some sense at least it's what I would do. I avoid the 'magic' in it all, preferring Friuls or a Modelkasten type of tracks assembly. I once assembled some Bronco brand tracks for my Panther and they were supposed to be workable but quickly became a nightmare. LOL

Jeff



@Jeff,
So the 'Magic' in 'Magic Track' has nothing to do in how they are assembled! Kinda like the 'Wonder' in 'Wonder Bread' had nothing to do with nutritional value, the 'Wonder' was there because it was the first bread to come pre-sliced! In other words--Big Whoopidity Doo!

On the tools: Like I mentioned to Rob, I usually paint the tools first--but that was non-PE. I'll experiment and see what I can get away with.

I've never tried after market tracks. I'll hafta give them a try one of these days.

Keith
woltersk
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Posted: Thursday, November 20, 2014 - 11:40 PM UTC
@Joe,
That camo looks fantastic. Very smooth. I would have guessed it had been masked and the paint sprayed on. Looking forward to seeing your weathering job.

Now I gotta ask: shouldn't the PE engine screens be painted also?

Keith
Motives
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Posted: Thursday, November 20, 2014 - 11:57 PM UTC

Quoted Text

--Links being links, and this kit being supposedly accurate, you'd think any link would work anywhere!



I mentioned it earlier but if your kit is anything like mine then you will have to use the "special" links or you'll run out of magic tracks!


Joe: Great brushwork! Looking forward to the weathering!
JoeOsborne
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Posted: Friday, November 21, 2014 - 01:30 AM UTC

Quoted Text

@Joe,
That camo looks fantastic. Very smooth. I would have guessed it had been masked and the paint sprayed on. Looking forward to seeing your weathering job.

Now I gotta ask: shouldn't the PE engine screens be painted also?

Keith




Keith,

Thanks for the compliments. Much appreciated!

Funny thing with the screens is they actually have a coat of dunkelgelb on them! I sprayed over a coating of Tamiya metal primer. I saw that they still look very light as opposed to the rest of the Jagd. I'll have to darken them up a bit to blend better.

Nito74
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Posted: Friday, November 21, 2014 - 02:20 AM UTC

Quoted Text



Do you put each wheel on a stick and spin it against the brush vs dragging the brush around the wheel?

Thanks,

Keith



I prefer dragging the brush around the wheel.
Here's an update on the Panther and the a small tutorial painting wooden equipment on a Marder

ICM's Panther





Panther equipment



Painting equipment already on a tank, I hope it helps Keith.







woltersk
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Posted: Friday, November 21, 2014 - 09:02 AM UTC
A quick update.
Some PE work:


Replaced the kit plastic drive sprocket axle with steel rod. The originals seemed too short, the fit too sloppy, and with the rod I don't have to glue them on. Makes installing the track easier.


Keith
Northern_Lad
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Posted: Friday, November 21, 2014 - 07:18 PM UTC
Progress to report…

filled in the gaps between the PE zimmerit at the front



added the engine grilles at the back, and the stowage bin lids… I balked at adding the hinges and clasps - that just seemed like an exercise in frustration in 1:72 scale... BTW, Keith, you have great patience (and skill) to add them to yours.



and the fenders and a couple of the side skirts just to see how they look. I’ll take them off again for painting, and beat them up a bit too



I think that's it now. So off to the paintshop.

Cheers

Matthew


PantherF
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Indiana, United States
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Posted: Friday, November 21, 2014 - 07:23 PM UTC
Ummm, this is 1/72 scale Matthew? Nice work there buddy! I would have never known just by looking at it as it looks much larger in scale.

How was the PE zimm to work with? I do want to try it out someday.


Keep up the great work guys... I like what I see.




Jeff
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Posted: Friday, November 21, 2014 - 07:37 PM UTC

Quoted Text

Ummm, this is 1/72 scale Matthew? Nice work there buddy! I would have never known just by looking at it as it looks much larger in scale.

How was the PE zimm to work with? I do want to try it out someday.


Keep up the great work guys... I like what I see.




Jeff



Indeed it is 1:72... I won't be building in this scale much longer as my eyes are shot. The PE zimmerit works like a dream. You just have to be quick and precise when fitting it since the superglue dries so quickly...

Cheers

Matthew
Motives
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Stockholm, Sweden
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Posted: Friday, November 21, 2014 - 11:23 PM UTC
Nice job on the PE Keith, looks spot on to me!

Matthew: Nice one! I also mistook it for 1/35 at first glance
Bonaparte84
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Hessen, Germany
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Posted: Friday, November 21, 2014 - 11:35 PM UTC

Quoted Text

Progress to report…

filled in the gaps between the PE zimmerit at the front




I think that's it now. So off to the paintshop.

Cheers

Matthew





Hey Matthew,

good job in that scale. I will be building a pretty similar set-up (see above). What did you use to fill the gaps between zimm and tanks? I used Mr. White Putty on my Panzer IV and Tiger II and it worked, yet required a lot of clean up and patience...

ALso, don't you think you should fill the same gaps on the turret, too? AT least on the pic, it looks like you have very sharp edges with little gaps on the front of the turret...
Cheers,
Nicolas
Motives
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Stockholm, Sweden
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Posted: Saturday, November 22, 2014 - 04:24 AM UTC
Small update from me. Got the airbrush out and coated the engine vents primer red before attaching the grills. As I was at it I gave the road wheels some primer too Color is vallejo surface primer "Rotbraun"



Modeling is pretty much done at this part. Need to build some more links for the spare rack but after that it's straight to paint!
It will be a while though as I'm taking my daughter to visit her grandparents next week
PantherF
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Posted: Saturday, November 22, 2014 - 04:30 AM UTC
Love the Panther D there Johan!

I hope to get to mine later tonight when everyone turns in.




Jeff
woltersk
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Posted: Saturday, November 22, 2014 - 09:16 AM UTC
Another small update. Drilled the holes for the tool rack cotter-pin(?) fasteners.


And I wasn't sure what to do with the other end of the turret pistol port chains, so I improvised and attached a short length of wire to the open end to keep them in the turret.


Keith
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Posted: Saturday, November 22, 2014 - 02:50 PM UTC

Quoted Text


Quoted Text

Progress to report…

filled in the gaps between the PE zimmerit at the front




I think that's it now. So off to the paintshop.

Cheers

Matthew





Hey Matthew,

good job in that scale. I will be building a pretty similar set-up (see above). What did you use to fill the gaps between zimm and tanks? I used Mr. White Putty on my Panzer IV and Tiger II and it worked, yet required a lot of clean up and patience...

ALso, don't you think you should fill the same gaps on the turret, too? AT least on the pic, it looks like you have very sharp edges with little gaps on the front of the turret...
Cheers,
Nicolas



Thanks, Nicholas. I used Milliput fine to fill the gaps. You're right there are a couple of nasty gaps in the turret. I'll fill those tonight. Good luck with your build. I'll keep watching...

Cheers

Matthew
ColinEdm
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ARMORAMA
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Posted: Saturday, November 22, 2014 - 11:34 PM UTC
Priming, preshade and base coat part deux....


I had gotten to the basecoat and started the camo scheme, but ran into lots of problems getting it to work right, the paint (Testors ModelMaster Acrylic) kept drying in the nozzle and when it did come out it would be uneven and would come out in clumps and run , tried multiple air pressure settings and thinning ratios but finally gave up, stripped and restarted. The camo I am doing is quite fine so need very narrow spray, tried it out on some cardboard with Tamiya colours and it seems to work better, so I'll see how it goes.
gishman32
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Posted: Sunday, November 23, 2014 - 01:04 AM UTC
Hello all. Its been a bit of a slow go for me in the past few weeks but I have managed to get all of the PE done and the first coat of paint on my kitty.

I'll be putting the camo on today (hopefully)

Lots of great looking panthers out there. I'm always amazed at the variations that can come from the same kit.

 photo IMG_1500_zpseb01ea6a.jpg

 photo IMG_1502_zpsb8ba40da.jpg
ColinEdm
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ARMORAMA
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Posted: Sunday, November 23, 2014 - 03:05 AM UTC
Looking good!
PantherF
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Posted: Sunday, November 23, 2014 - 03:31 AM UTC
I just got this in the mail yesterday to add to the build!



Sent the sprockets and wheels off to the paint booth so I will work on the rear hull to start with.




Lots of information to sort through, tempting to use what we see now instead of the drawings of the Panther II. I want mine to look as though it just left the factory on combat trials than in a 'prototype' mode. This will include paint and markings true to the period it should have been completed.

(this will be fun)





Jeff