Armor/AFV: Axis - WWII
Armor and ground forces of the Axis forces during World War II.
Hosted by Darren Baker
Panzer IV Ausf.J Sd.Kfz.161/2
TRM5150
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Posted: Friday, November 06, 2015 - 09:48 AM UTC
Everything looks better in primer! Nice work there my friend! I'm liking that texturing on the muffler!! Bring on that color!!
Thirian24
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Posted: Friday, November 06, 2015 - 10:08 AM UTC
Thank you very much, Todd! I think Sunday I'll spray it in hull red. I'm really enjoying this build.
Thirian24
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Posted: Saturday, November 07, 2015 - 02:23 AM UTC
I've been watching some videos on camo modulation, I don't think I'll be attempting that for awhile. Seems like it's could easily look weird or get messed up
Thirian24
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Posted: Sunday, November 08, 2015 - 12:22 AM UTC
Using the airbrush to apply this coat was simply awesome, waaaay better than using a rattle can.



Cheers,
Dustin
Modelrob
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Posted: Sunday, November 08, 2015 - 02:00 AM UTC
Dustin it looks good in its coat of primer. You are right about air brushes working better than a rattle can. Can't wait to see more.

Robert
Thirian24
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Posted: Sunday, November 08, 2015 - 02:24 AM UTC
Thanks again Robert.

I'm really excited about this one. It seems to be working well for me. I think it'll turn out nice
TRM5150
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Posted: Sunday, November 08, 2015 - 03:32 AM UTC
Nice work on the primer coat!! She's looking good under a little color!! Once you go AB, you never go back!!
Thirian24
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Posted: Sunday, November 08, 2015 - 04:42 AM UTC
Thank you, Todd. I'm pretty excited so far. I don't know why, but I am. Lol

Yes, I just need to buy bigger bottles of some of the main colors, because these Tamiya Mini bottles won't last very long. It may help that I have a better idea of how much to mix up for certain applications now, so I'm not wasting barely any paint now. Prior to this, I was wasting a fair amount.

Cheers,
Dustin
Thirian24
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Posted: Sunday, November 08, 2015 - 06:16 AM UTC
Question,

I plan on using AKs heavy chipping. Is it ok if I apply it to certain areas that I want to chip, tonight.. And spray the dark yellow and camo tomorrow. Will the effect still be possibly, or is there too much drying time allowed?
TRM5150
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Posted: Sunday, November 08, 2015 - 06:30 AM UTC
I would think it would be okay to do that Dustin. I am thinking the problem might happen if you applied both tonight and waited...but then again, it all depends on what paint you were going to use as it depends on how difficult it would be to remove after the paint has had time to cure.

The Chipping fluid should dry rather quickly...in a few minutes. Might just wait and apply it before you paint tomorrow. A hair dryer can speed up the drying a little too!
Thirian24
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Posted: Sunday, November 08, 2015 - 06:33 AM UTC
Thank you for that advice, Todd. I think I will just wait for tomorrow. I'm being very cautious about painting/weathering and curing because of the mishap with the Tiger. I don't want that mess to happen again. Lol

Cheers,
Dustin
TRM5150
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Posted: Sunday, November 08, 2015 - 06:47 AM UTC
Makes sense! For the most part, you probably could remove paint the next day if you do not finish the chipping in one sitting...it just becomes a little harder to get the paint to move later. Another way is to add chipping with select colors after the painting and chipping...if you think you need more or a more controlled chipping effect. Remember, the amount of chipping fluid you add and the amount of water you use to remove the paint is a direct result on how much paint comes off. More fluid will result in larger areas coming off easier. Lighter coats can be more controlled, but can be slightly more difficult to remove the paint. Same goes for the water use...a wet brush will soak through the paint and you will have bigger chipping...a damp brush will soften and allow you to be more select!
Thirian24
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Posted: Sunday, November 08, 2015 - 07:09 AM UTC
Thank you very much for that advice sir!
This will be my first go at the chipping and I don't want to over do it.
As Armorsmith mentioned to me before about how chipping can be over done easily with this scale.
Armorsmith
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Posted: Sunday, November 08, 2015 - 07:32 AM UTC

Quoted Text

Using the airbrush to apply this coat was simply awesome, waaaay better than using a rattle can.

Cheers,
Dustin



The primer coat looks excellent. Keep up the good work.
Thirian24
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Posted: Sunday, November 08, 2015 - 07:37 AM UTC
Thank you very much sir!
Thirian24
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Posted: Monday, November 09, 2015 - 03:09 AM UTC
Dark yellow is on. Thinking I'll probably just do dark green camo with no red brown.


Cheers,
Dustin
TRM5150
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Posted: Monday, November 09, 2015 - 03:19 AM UTC
Looks good there Dustin! Great color for weathering too!!
Thirian24
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Posted: Monday, November 09, 2015 - 03:30 AM UTC
Thank you sir!

Much to be done still.

Armorsmith
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Posted: Monday, November 09, 2015 - 03:37 AM UTC

Quoted Text

Thank you sir!

Much to be done still.



Looks good. Have the idler and drive been painted? They still look like bare plastic in the photo.
Thirian24
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Posted: Monday, November 09, 2015 - 03:41 AM UTC
Thank you sir!

In this picture they haven't been painted, but I just sprayed them with prime, getting them ready for the yellow.

I'll probably do the camo an start painting the tracks tonight. Do the tracks need a "primer" on them? The only primer I have is grey.
Armorsmith
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Posted: Monday, November 09, 2015 - 03:56 AM UTC

Quoted Text

Thank you sir!

In this picture they haven't been painted, but I just sprayed them with prime, getting them ready for the yellow.

I'll probably do the camo an start painting the tracks tonight. Do the tracks need a "primer" on them? The only primer I have is grey.



Wouldn't hurt. Painting rubber band tracks has traditionally been somewhat of an adventure. At one time it was nearly impossible to paint them and have the paint actually adhere. With only minor handling it would flake off. Then there are those who experienced track rot, where the tracks would become brittle and break. I am pretty sure that your kit is of a somewhat newer vintage(1990s)where the track is much more easily paintable and. Just make sure they are clean and don't have an oily/greasy feel about them. If they do just wash them gently in warm soapy water and let them dry, then prime and paint as per usual. If using oils/enamels for weathering make sure the tracks are sealed so as not to run the risk of the tracks being weakened by the petrol products that are in the oils/enamels.
Thirian24
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Posted: Monday, November 09, 2015 - 04:05 AM UTC
Thank you for that info sir.

I'll give them a wash tonight and prime them.

I really need to get me a work station setup and buy a small air crompressor.

This moving my stuff around from my dresser to the kitchen table, and going to the garage to paint is not a best use of my modeling time. Plus, I definitely need better lighting once I get me a desk.
tatbaqui
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Posted: Monday, November 09, 2015 - 04:05 AM UTC
Hello Dustin,

I'd prime the tracks as well. Painting vinyl tracks like Tamiya's has it own share of challenges -- mainly paint not adhering well. I've heard of others saying the paint rubs off, flakes over time, etc.

What I do: mount the tracks on the vehicle, spray on primer, then base coat, and cover it in Future to seal it. Let it cure for a couple of days, then do the weathering and all other finishing stuff. Then a final coat of Future mixed with Tamiya X21 Flat Base.

Painting and weathering details like the hull, wheel assembly, etc. may be challenging with the tracks mounted, but it sure keeps my hands from touching it all over, and messing the work.

Check the Painting sub-forum -- there's a sticky there about painting tracks. Other folks have put in their techniques as well, that you may want to take on.

Cheers,

Tat
Thirian24
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Posted: Monday, November 09, 2015 - 05:33 AM UTC
Thank you for that advice sir.

Camo on.





Cheers,
Dustin
Armorsmith
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Posted: Monday, November 09, 2015 - 06:37 AM UTC

Quoted Text

Thank you for that advice sir.

Camo on.

Cheers,
Dustin



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