Armor/AFV: Axis - WWII
Armor and ground forces of the Axis forces during World War II.
Hosted by Darren Baker
Panzer IV Ausf.J Sd.Kfz.161/2
Armorsmith
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Posted: Saturday, November 21, 2015 - 07:02 PM UTC
[quote]It looks so much better now, thank you all for pushing me in the right direction to get that fixed.[quote]

Much improved. As for "pushing" you in the right direction, in my opinion it's more your willingness to consider the advice of more experienced modelers and your eagerness/enthusiasm to learn and improve your skills and techniques. You could easily have said no and left the string, but you chose to do a little thing that makes a huge difference in this case. By this time I think you have realized that it's a combination of many small details that really impact the overall appearance and quality or lack thereof of the completed model. Well done!
KevPak
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Posted: Saturday, November 21, 2015 - 08:20 PM UTC
Much improved! I'm glad I was able to help. As a side note, Tamiya should be severely reprimanded for including said string in their kits as a substitute for a more suitable part. Even their old vinyl plastic cables were better looking!
Thirian24
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Posted: Saturday, November 21, 2015 - 08:34 PM UTC
Todd, Armorsmith, Kevin,

Thank you fellas for the kind words.

Armorsmith you're absolutely correct, all the little things make these models really stand out. I appreciate all of you guys helping me learn to make better models.

Cheers,
Dustin
Thirian24
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Posted: Monday, November 23, 2015 - 06:46 AM UTC
Did the rusting on the muffler and added some pigments.. Which may have been premature. Also did streaking on the turret Schürzen.




Cheers,
Dustin
Armorsmith
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Posted: Monday, November 23, 2015 - 06:58 AM UTC

Quoted Text

Did the rusting on the muffler and added some pigments.. Which may have been premature. Also did streaking on the turret Schürzen.

Cheers,
Dustin



Like the streaking on the turret. Not overdone. rust on the muffler looks ok. You might want to add some different shades of orange/browns to give it a better look. Remember that the muffler rusts from two different elements, heat and rain, and that the heat is not evenly distributed, some spots will be hotter than others and as a result will show different stages/color of rust. You might also want to add some soot to the inside and around the actual exhaust pipe. Other than that looking very good.
Thirian24
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Posted: Monday, November 23, 2015 - 07:03 AM UTC
Thank you sir!

I think I'll add more pigments later on after the matte clear. I kinda just wanted to test it out to see how it would look. Different tones of rust and soot is on the agenda for sure. In this pic, you can see better (somewhat) that there are different tone of rust. I guess the flash hit the muffler in the other pics.

Thirian24
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Posted: Monday, November 23, 2015 - 07:04 AM UTC
But it still need more, you're correct.

I still have streaking to do on the rear and front area. And probably the sides of the turret.
Thirian24
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Posted: Monday, November 23, 2015 - 08:23 AM UTC
deathdork
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Posted: Monday, November 23, 2015 - 12:18 PM UTC
I really like this model, but I have a question for the experts as to whether a 100% rust coating on the large muffler is really accurate or should it be painted in the base coat with rust spotting.

Regardless I congratulate and thank you for sharing a fun build!
GazzaS
#424
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Posted: Monday, November 23, 2015 - 12:44 PM UTC
Paints of the day simply could not survive the heat.
Modelrob
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Posted: Monday, November 23, 2015 - 04:09 PM UTC
Dustin the cat is coming along great. Changing the cable out made a huge difference. The streaking is looking good also.

Robert
Thirian24
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Posted: Monday, November 23, 2015 - 07:02 PM UTC
Thank you fellas for the kind words!

Cheers,
Dustin
Thirian24
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Posted: Monday, November 23, 2015 - 11:33 PM UTC
I still need to weather the road wheels, idler and drive sprocket.

Just wanted to see it with the tracks on again.

TRM5150
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Posted: Tuesday, November 24, 2015 - 12:40 AM UTC
Your IV is looking great Dustin! Fine work on replacing that cable! Made a world of difference! Amazing how some washes and streaking make a project pop!! All about layers!!

Thirian24
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Posted: Tuesday, November 24, 2015 - 01:18 AM UTC
Thank you Todd.

You are completely right, I mean look at the hull/turret vs. the drive sprocket. Wow!

I'm feeling very accomplished with this one so far.

Cheers,
Dustin
Major-Hazard
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Posted: Tuesday, November 24, 2015 - 01:50 AM UTC
Hi Dustin

Those washes have made a difference. now you need to dirty up those idlers and sprockets along with the running gear.

Bill
Armorsmith
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Posted: Tuesday, November 24, 2015 - 02:17 AM UTC

Quoted Text

I'm feeling very accomplished with this one so far.

Cheers,
Dustin




And well you should. Anxious to see the everything completed. Getting very close to the end. Very well done!
Thirian24
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Posted: Tuesday, November 24, 2015 - 02:33 AM UTC
Thank you Bill & Armorsmith.

I'll probably be applying mud tomorrow I think!

Still have a few steps.

Matte clear
Pigments
Lead pencil on return rollers and edges of hull/turret
Dust effects
Spray a light coat of buff to creat dust
Mud
Thirian24
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Posted: Wednesday, November 25, 2015 - 08:34 AM UTC
Question,

I still have sprayed the matte clear yet.

I have the AK Dust & Dirt deposites, does this get applied before the matte clear? I want to make sure that I get everything done, that needs to be done before the matte coat.

The lead pencil is used after the matte?

Am I forgetting anything?
Armorsmith
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Posted: Wednesday, November 25, 2015 - 09:06 AM UTC

Quoted Text

Question,

I still have sprayed the matte clear yet.

I have the AK Dust & Dirt deposites, does this get applied before the matte clear? I want to make sure that I get everything done, that needs to be done before the matte coat.

The lead pencil is used after the matte?

Am I forgetting anything?



If the AK dust/dirt is a powder then I would apply them after the matt. Same for the pencil since you want some shine to the bare metal. Generally speaking I do not overspray my pastels/pigments as I find that they tend to darken somewhat and their effect is lost. Application of powders is usually the last thing I do and is the final step in the weathering process for me.

Looking at the muffler again you might consider giving it a dark wash to add some depth to the finish before applying any more rust effects etc.
Thirian24
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Posted: Wednesday, November 25, 2015 - 09:29 AM UTC
Armorsmith, the ak effects are a liguid. Really thin.
Armorsmith
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Posted: Wednesday, November 25, 2015 - 09:34 AM UTC

Quoted Text

Armorsmith, the ak effects are a liguid. Really thin.



I suspect that they are a suspension. That is the liquid is a carrier for really fine particles that will settle into the nooks and crannies. When the liquid dries you will in effect have powders left behind. If that is so, then I would apply it after the matt finish.
Thirian24
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Posted: Wednesday, November 25, 2015 - 09:35 AM UTC
It's an enamel. That's ok for the acrylic matte?
Armorsmith
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Posted: Wednesday, November 25, 2015 - 09:38 AM UTC

Quoted Text

It's an enamel. That's ok for the acrylic matte?




Should not be problem. Just be sure to allow sufficient drying time. At least 24hrs.
Thirian24
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Posted: Wednesday, November 25, 2015 - 09:40 AM UTC
Ok sounds good sir. Thank you!