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Panzer IV Ausf.J Sd.Kfz.161/2
Thirian24
Joined: September 30, 2015
KitMaker: 2,493 posts
Armorama: 2,344 posts
Posted: Thursday, November 19, 2015 - 07:43 PM UTC
Thank you Rob!
Thirian24
Joined: September 30, 2015
KitMaker: 2,493 posts
Armorama: 2,344 posts
Posted: Friday, November 20, 2015 - 07:16 AM UTC
Wash applied to turret. I'm liking it so far.
Cheers,
Dustin
Cheers,
Dustin
TRM5150
Joined: January 03, 2010
KitMaker: 2,159 posts
Armorama: 707 posts
Posted: Friday, November 20, 2015 - 07:24 AM UTC
It amazing what a wash can bring out in the finish!! Looking great Dustin! Bring on the layers!
Armorsmith
Joined: April 09, 2015
KitMaker: 1,063 posts
Armorama: 1,000 posts
Posted: Friday, November 20, 2015 - 07:50 AM UTC
Quoted Text
Wash applied to turret. I'm liking it so far.
Cheers,
Dustin
Very nice. Outstanding. Anxious to see the rest and the rusted muffler.
Thirian24
Joined: September 30, 2015
KitMaker: 2,493 posts
Armorama: 2,344 posts
Posted: Friday, November 20, 2015 - 08:02 AM UTC
Thank you fellas! Weathering makes things so much nicer.
Question; I know I've asked, I just want to be certain. How long should I wait after doing the wash, to do streaking? I'm afraid when wiping the streaks with thinner, that the wash will come off too. Also, when do the filters get applied, or is it even needed since I did the wash?
Thanks,
Dustin.
Question; I know I've asked, I just want to be certain. How long should I wait after doing the wash, to do streaking? I'm afraid when wiping the streaks with thinner, that the wash will come off too. Also, when do the filters get applied, or is it even needed since I did the wash?
Thanks,
Dustin.
Armorsmith
Joined: April 09, 2015
KitMaker: 1,063 posts
Armorama: 1,000 posts
Posted: Friday, November 20, 2015 - 08:14 AM UTC
Quoted Text
Thank you fellas! Weathering makes things so much nicer.
Question; I know I've asked, I just want to be certain. How long should I wait after doing the wash, to do streaking? I'm afraid when wiping the streaks with thinner, that the wash will come off too. Also, when do the filters get applied, or is it even needed since I did the wash?
Thanks,
Dustin.
It is my understanding that filters are generally done before the wash, but as I do not as a rule use them I may be wrong. Filters are generally used to change the tonal qualities of the base coat and cammo, i.e. giving the dark yellow a more greenish or brownish tone by using the appropriate filter. Washes, especially pin washes are generally used to bring out the detail and to add contrast to the overall paint scheme. Depending on how you do the wash you can usually work it to achieve some degree of overall streaking then do more deliberate streaking in selective areas one the initial wash has dried.
As for the streaking, since it is generally used sparingly and selectivity I don't think you really have to worry too much about drying time, although you should probably wait at least 24 hrs. Keep in mind that I do not use the MIG/Ammo products but use oil washes so the same "rules" for drying may or may not apply.
TRM5150
Joined: January 03, 2010
KitMaker: 2,159 posts
Armorama: 707 posts
Posted: Friday, November 20, 2015 - 08:17 AM UTC
Filters are a preference call. It looks like you already have a full wash on the tank...a filter might not really apply at this point too much. Assuming you might be using an enamel based washes and streaking fluids, typically 24 hours will allow the previous coats to dry sufficiently. But they can be "reactivated" depending on how wet the surface is. A quick clear coat will protect your work if you like. However, streaking should not effect a wash too much. You can always add pin washes after the streaking if you want.
Armorsmith
Joined: April 09, 2015
KitMaker: 1,063 posts
Armorama: 1,000 posts
Posted: Friday, November 20, 2015 - 08:22 AM UTC
Todd,
Not to hijack the topic but is my understanding of filters correct? As I said I don't use them as such so I might very well be misinterpreting their use.
Thank you.
Not to hijack the topic but is my understanding of filters correct? As I said I don't use them as such so I might very well be misinterpreting their use.
Thank you.
Thirian24
Joined: September 30, 2015
KitMaker: 2,493 posts
Armorama: 2,344 posts
Posted: Friday, November 20, 2015 - 08:24 AM UTC
Armorsmith, Todd,
Thank you fellas very much. I get nervous at this point because I don't want to ruin anything. Lol
So it seems like I missed my chance at doing the filters on this Panzer. No biggie.
I do think I will add a coat of clear over this base wash before moving onto the streaking and pin wash. Just to be safe (I guess for my own sake lol).
Armorsmith, I know you said that muzzle soot was not true of WW2 German tanks because of the smokeless power, but I really like the look. What's the best way to apply that effect? And should that be done after the matte clear?
Cheers,
Dustin
Thank you fellas very much. I get nervous at this point because I don't want to ruin anything. Lol
So it seems like I missed my chance at doing the filters on this Panzer. No biggie.
I do think I will add a coat of clear over this base wash before moving onto the streaking and pin wash. Just to be safe (I guess for my own sake lol).
Armorsmith, I know you said that muzzle soot was not true of WW2 German tanks because of the smokeless power, but I really like the look. What's the best way to apply that effect? And should that be done after the matte clear?
Cheers,
Dustin
Armorsmith
Joined: April 09, 2015
KitMaker: 1,063 posts
Armorama: 1,000 posts
Posted: Friday, November 20, 2015 - 08:34 AM UTC
Quoted Text
Armorsmith, Todd,
Thank you fellas very much. I get nervous at this point because I don't want to ruin anything. Lol
So it seems like I missed my chance at doing the filters on this Panzer. No biggie.
I do think I will add a coat of clear over this base wash before moving onto the streaking and pin wash. Just to be safe (I guess for my own sake lol).
Armorsmith, I know you said that muzzle soot was not true of WW2 German tanks because of the smokeless power, but I really like the look. What's the best way to apply that effect? And should that be done after the matte clear?
Cheers,
Dustin
Two possible options for applying the soot and this applies generally not just to your muzzle break: pastels (weathering powders), or airbrush. I tend to do about 80% of my weathering after the wash with an airbrush. For you at this point I would recommend the pastels since they are easier to control and are more forgiving. Just remember to start slow adding a little at a time. It's easier to add more than to remove it, although with pastels you can always wipe some of it away. Pastels are generally the last ting you add after the matt coat. They adhere pretty well to a matt coat and are much more prone to smudging on a clear coat.
TRM5150
Joined: January 03, 2010
KitMaker: 2,159 posts
Armorama: 707 posts
Posted: Friday, November 20, 2015 - 08:55 AM UTC
Quoted Text
Todd,
Not to hijack the topic but is my understanding of filters correct? As I said I don't use them as such so I might very well be misinterpreting their use.
Thank you.
Filters work much the same as a wash just not as invasive. They are used to blend the overall colors and tones. The effects of the filters are quite subtle and can be applied over the entire model. While washes can do the same, they are much darker and , at least in my world, are regulated to darkening and fading panels and pin washes.
Not to aid in hijacking the thread , this is a good example of what a filter can do to the finish.
Thirian24
Joined: September 30, 2015
KitMaker: 2,493 posts
Armorama: 2,344 posts
Posted: Friday, November 20, 2015 - 09:00 AM UTC
Thank you very much Armorsmith! I'll give it a shot.
Todd, that filter really makes it pop. I'll have to remember to try them next time.
Todd, that filter really makes it pop. I'll have to remember to try them next time.
Thirian24
Joined: September 30, 2015
KitMaker: 2,493 posts
Armorama: 2,344 posts
Posted: Friday, November 20, 2015 - 09:02 AM UTC
Todd is that your work? Is that color modulation that you've done? I'm curious as to how you did the highlighting. Looks awesome.
Thirian24
Joined: September 30, 2015
KitMaker: 2,493 posts
Armorama: 2,344 posts
Posted: Friday, November 20, 2015 - 09:38 AM UTC
Now to dry and another coat of clear.
Cheers
Dustin.
Cheers
Dustin.
TRM5150
Joined: January 03, 2010
KitMaker: 2,159 posts
Armorama: 707 posts
Posted: Friday, November 20, 2015 - 12:15 PM UTC
Looking sharp Dustin! Each layer just increases the depth! 
The paint was more of panel shading than a modulation. I tried to leave darker shadowing in the creases and such. Then a couple lighter colors worked into the open areas.
The paint was more of panel shading than a modulation. I tried to leave darker shadowing in the creases and such. Then a couple lighter colors worked into the open areas.
Modelrob
Joined: October 20, 2015
KitMaker: 304 posts
Armorama: 293 posts
Posted: Friday, November 20, 2015 - 04:19 PM UTC
Dustin the wash looks good, the chipping blends in really well now.
Armorsmith
Joined: April 09, 2015
KitMaker: 1,063 posts
Armorama: 1,000 posts
Posted: Friday, November 20, 2015 - 05:39 PM UTC
Quoted Text
Now to dry and another coat of clear.
Cheers
Dustin.
Coming together very nicely. Chipping looks much more natural now. Your basic skills have improved rapidly and is reflected in your work. In my opinion fine tuning and refinement are really all that is needed. Are you going to leave the tow cable as is or are you going to try to fix it?
brekinapez
Joined: July 26, 2013
KitMaker: 2,272 posts
Armorama: 1,860 posts
Posted: Friday, November 20, 2015 - 07:27 PM UTC
You need to replace that cable, man. It's starting to look like an old hemp rope now that all the paints have been soaking into it. I used cord only once because of that problem.
Of course, I understand if it may not be possible if you have glued it down pretty well as that would just mess up the surrounding work. But if you can, you should. Otherwise it is pretty awesome work for your second outing.
Of course, I understand if it may not be possible if you have glued it down pretty well as that would just mess up the surrounding work. But if you can, you should. Otherwise it is pretty awesome work for your second outing.
Thirian24
Joined: September 30, 2015
KitMaker: 2,493 posts
Armorama: 2,344 posts
Posted: Friday, November 20, 2015 - 08:57 PM UTC
Thank you all very much! I'm actually going to the city today so I'll pick up some wire to replace the cable. It's still part of the plan lol.
In your opinion, should another layer of wash be applied, or does it look good the way it is?
Cheers?
Dustin
In your opinion, should another layer of wash be applied, or does it look good the way it is?
Cheers?
Dustin
KevPak
Joined: June 04, 2014
KitMaker: 137 posts
Armorama: 128 posts
Posted: Friday, November 20, 2015 - 09:25 PM UTC
Dustin-
Your build is progressing nicely but I definitely agree that the string/rope (representing the cable) that you currently have on the model must be eliminated ASAP! All the little fibers sticking out give it an unrealistic "furry" appearance that would not be seen even if it were rope. If you have a local arts and crafts store (not necessarily a model shop) you should be able to pick up something like this:
It's very easy to work with since it retains its shape when it is bent or otherwise manipulated:
Once it is glued to the tow rope ends and painted, it makes for a very convincing (to my eyes, at least) 1/35 tow cable for the Pz III/IV:
Good luck!
Your build is progressing nicely but I definitely agree that the string/rope (representing the cable) that you currently have on the model must be eliminated ASAP! All the little fibers sticking out give it an unrealistic "furry" appearance that would not be seen even if it were rope. If you have a local arts and crafts store (not necessarily a model shop) you should be able to pick up something like this:
It's very easy to work with since it retains its shape when it is bent or otherwise manipulated:
Once it is glued to the tow rope ends and painted, it makes for a very convincing (to my eyes, at least) 1/35 tow cable for the Pz III/IV:
Good luck!
brekinapez
Joined: July 26, 2013
KitMaker: 2,272 posts
Armorama: 1,860 posts
Posted: Saturday, November 21, 2015 - 01:36 AM UTC
In case you were wondering, Dustin, to reuse the cable end loops just cut the string off and carefully drill out the old thread/glue. You can buy one of those little drills that should be near all the paints/glues or even the tip of a new Xacto blade, if you haven't one already. You just need enough hole for the wire to slip in far enough for the glue to get a grip.
Thirian24
Joined: September 30, 2015
KitMaker: 2,493 posts
Armorama: 2,344 posts
Posted: Saturday, November 21, 2015 - 01:49 AM UTC
Kevin & Shell,
Thanks for the advice and tips,
Hopefully I won't forget this wire and I'll correct it tonight.
Thank you fellas.
Thanks for the advice and tips,
Hopefully I won't forget this wire and I'll correct it tonight.
Thank you fellas.
Thirian24
Joined: September 30, 2015
KitMaker: 2,493 posts
Armorama: 2,344 posts
Posted: Saturday, November 21, 2015 - 09:09 AM UTC
Kevin,
I bought the Artistic Wire, this stuff is awesome! Thank you for pointing me in that direction.
Comparison of the artistic wire vs. the string that comes with the kit.
Cheer,
Dustin
I bought the Artistic Wire, this stuff is awesome! Thank you for pointing me in that direction.
Comparison of the artistic wire vs. the string that comes with the kit.
Cheer,
Dustin
Thirian24
Joined: September 30, 2015
KitMaker: 2,493 posts
Armorama: 2,344 posts
Posted: Saturday, November 21, 2015 - 11:40 AM UTC
It looks so much better now, thank you all for pushing me in the right direction to get that fixed.
TRM5150
Joined: January 03, 2010
KitMaker: 2,159 posts
Armorama: 707 posts
Posted: Saturday, November 21, 2015 - 06:51 PM UTC
Much better Dustin! Well done on the cable! 
Well done on the cable! 
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