Jarle

Looking good so far and I like the way you are shuttering the formwork to build the pour up. Apart from using loge (tee hee) this is how the real thing could be constructed in pours of between 1m and 3m height, depending on the complexity and strength of the formwork providing support to each pour.

A consiquence of this is that you could end up with very distinct horizontal and vertical construction joints at the point where each pour starts and stops. This may be something you want to have on your finished walls too to have the real pour sequence showing through in your model. Maybe add a very thin strip of balsa on the face of the next pour which you can pull out after it has set.

I don't know if you will need this, but it is something to think about, if your own plaster sequence sets at different times, you may end up with the plaster being weak at each join to the next pour and might simply crack if lifted off because the section below is already set hard and your wall thickness is so thin. If you drill in some holes and set some paper clips in the centre of the thickness this will act as reinforcement bars. Aside from giving the junction a bit of possible strength you can then say you have real reinforced concrete modelled. Depending how you want your model to look at the edges you could have the paperclips sticking though you would have to look at real reinforcement to make this effect look convincing.

Nige

Jarle, looking very real for poured concrete. I like the seepage between the boards. Here I'll pipe in some more info for you ( couldn't resist that) For your piping take a look at the model rail road section at your LHS for cornerstone products. They have an oil pumping set of pipes that I have used for my dio's. A lot of useful things including hand wheel shut off vavles and wall mount supports. Various thickness's of piping and angles. Used them for water piping in a building for the N.Y.P.D. emergincy services set by D.M.L. and came out pretty convincing. I think they scale out to about a 4" pipe or close enough depending on which ones you use. Hope it helps soom. bob d.

The structure of the "beton" (correct name?) looks good!
I also have seen this type of walls somewhere.

I wait for the lot of tiles on the wall. Good luck for this.
Will you attach the rubber-mats? (on the tiles)

greetings...
Soeren

The housing of this device in an underground chamber lined with ceramic brick and rubber mats suggests that it gave off extremely strong electro-magnetic or electro-static field effects as well as high heat when in operation.

Beautiful landscape where you live!

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The housing of this device in an underground chamber lined with ceramic brick and rubber mats suggests that it gave off extremely strong electro-magnetic or electro-static field effects as well as high heat when in operation.

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from:
http://discaircraft.greyfalcon.us/DIE%20GLOCKE.htm

Perhaps this helps a bit.

greetings...
Soeren

edit:
On the lower part of the page can be found:
"The test chamber was 30 meters square and lined with ceramic tiles. The floors and walls were covered with heavy black rubber mats."

This might be interesting to see. I found it very inspirational.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sABpGFzxebQ&feature=related

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This might be interesting to see. I found it very inspirational.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sABpGFzxebQ&feature=related

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Thanks!
Today, I found a 5-part documentation on youtube. Very interesting stuff!
first part is: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b8e6wUfueBo&feature=related
Thanks to the publisher!

greetings...
Soeren

Hi,

I have been following this interesting post.
Btw, the tank seems a US sheridan . Why is it there?

Cheers!
Seung-il

Jarle

I have to say I think the molded in windows will look a lot better than trying to carve them out after. You have done such a great job of mimiking the timber formwork that they used in real life, including where they were forming large and small opening in the concrete.

The real windows would have been formed by building a basic timber box and supporting it within the mold (and real reinforcement) and letting the concrete pour in around the formwork even where a window opening is in the mid height of the wall..

The window and door formwork would then be struck out unless they needed fixings for items like pass doors or window frames. Where formwork wasn't to be left the wood pattern of the struck formwork would likely show on the concrete at these large openings too.

Cutting holes in the real concrete to make a new opening is far harder than it might appear even with modern tools given the thickness and the strength of the materials.

As well as that making the formwork for your viewing windows there is more chance that you will get the shapes nearly identical but with a variation in the struck formwork. Formwork could even let you get a nice downward slope of the window cill to enable the viewer to look downwards into the test area that might be hard to carve out of your molded wall accurately.

Hope that doesn't sound nit picking but I thought your first version was great and casting it the way they would do it for real might give you the look you are looking for.

All the best

Nige

Thanks for the images!
This gives some impression of the build and "how to make them".

greetings...
Soeren

edit:

Wow, the result looks very good!