Excellent work, mate!
Cheers,
Guido

Amazing work, Simon. I think the pictures at the ends of the trenches are a good idea. I think it ties the book to the diorama.

Chris

Jeremy,

I sort of have ended up going a bit deeper into this build that I originally intended, but that's the way it goes sometimes.

Simon

Great work on the Trench, also like the pics at the ends finishs that area of neatly.

A bit of progress on the base over this weekend. It has been sprayed using a very greeny blue acrylic car paint. (This is not the final colour, a few layers of Tamiya clear blue will get the colour I want.)



The ship has been afixed to the base. 4 lengths of brass rod down each side pin it for strength. and 5 min epoxy glue as been used. This hull is hollow, sold hulls usually 2 or 3 screws going right though the base and into the hull.



The wake is built up using PVA glue, this will dry clear.



The frames for the canvas dodgers have been added to bridge wings as the compass platform, these need filling with PVA and painting.



and finally I started to paint some figures to go on the bridge & deck.



Si

Hi Simon,

Looking great.

Al

A bit more progress over the weekend.

The first coat of the Wake was added, a fairly rough coat of matt white, just to give it a base. It does not matter that this is a bit crude as that will not show up on the finished article.



Next the first of the fragile items protruding over the side were added, the 12pdr guns on the maindesk and some more railings, along with the 3pdrs on the boat deck and a couple of searchlights.



The 1st coat of "sea" was the final job, a nix of Tamiya clear blue, a touch of clear green, a little clear and a little thinners, brushed on with a soft flat brush.



Next will be a another layer over the wake, this time in Gloss white. I would reckon 4-5 layers each of wake & sea should build up a decent effect.

Si

Simon, that's coming along beautifully! Keep posting.
-Sean H.

gremlinz (Dean) has put together a website dedicated to WWI and modeling that's worth checking out:

wwimodeller.co.nz/

Excellent work Simon.

Al

To All,
Time to post the 'sprueshots' for my build.

Here are photos of the Emhar 1/35 Mk.IV Male and the Model Cellar AM Tracks, Construction to start (hopefully) soon.





Thanks,
Stephen (Minas-Ithil)

Nice looking project Stephen, looking forward to see how it goes.

Small amount of progress this weekend, have started work on the after top. basic shapes for the base cut from plasticard & the sides from evergreen strip.



The bulwarks assembled, and as the ship is not going to be at action stations. the supports for the canvas weather screen have been cut, the two strips of masking tape on the right hand edge of the shot are my cutting guide.



supports added, (1 a bit wonky but that is currable), the screen will be added from masking tape.



And finally a second coat on the wake, gloss white from now on, which is applied with a stiff flat brush, so it leaves a streaky finish, almost like a heavy dry brush.



next finishing the after top, boats, and the next coat of sea.

Si

Hi Stephen

Good to see someone tackling the Emhar MKIV.

Most of the changes I have made to the gun sponsons on my MK V are also applicable to the MK IV, the Male sponsons in the kit are a cross between a MK IV and MK I.

Also, you might want to make the same changes to the width of the track guides that I made, these make the Model Cellar tracks sit much better

Ian Clasper

Si: You seem to have a lot of patience, and it looks to be paying off nicely. Keep it up!

Stephen: I'm looking forward to your build

Ian: If you don't mind, I'd like your input on the resin Mike Bishop kit when I start it. I'm sure it could benefit from some modifications.

Ian -
Thanks for the support. I was extremely fired up when Emhar first released their kit - and then I saw the tracks... Hmmm. I was finally able to pick up a couple of the Model Cellar sets of links. This campaign has finally given me the boot in the a- er, I mean posterior, to make the kit. Yes, I am sure I will ask some details about your spacing to make the tracks sit right. Any details or advice you would want to share would be most appreciated. I need to complete a Stuart for the Lt Tank campaign and then comes time to dive into the Mk. IV.

Thanks,
Stephen

Hi guys!
I watched this thread on and off for some time now, always blaming myself for not having discovered it earlier....
But now i see that the time limit is september... So i could actually make it, if it is not too late tojoin, i mean...
I am currently finishind a downed Camel diorama over the Aeroscale site, but i am in the finishing stages and having an emhar kit just arrived in my stash, i think it would be better for me to tackle this subject with other fellow modellers as i think a lot of help will be needed....
So, how about that? Is there still room for another mkv male dio?
Ciao
Edo

Edoardo: Good to see you again, and you can join whenever you are ready. The sooner the better, and we can never have enough Mk V's I saw your Camel diorama a while back when you were working on it I believe, it was really inspiring. Feel free to post a link to that diorama here in this thread

Hi Jeremy!
Thank you for your warm welcome!
I'll sign up today..
You've also been very kind in referring to my Camel dio... Here is the link....
https://aeroscale.kitmaker.net/forums/184874&page=1
Ciao
Edo

Oh, THAT "Camel dio"!

Hi Simon,

Coming along really well.

Stephen,

Look forward to the MkIV,

Murdo,

How's the Whippet coming along?

Edoardo,

Cool Camel Dio, welcome along.

The plot thickens!



I can only blame Jeremy!

Al

Hi all and Al,

A quick update to the “Whippet with guts”:

I seem to spend an awful of of time staring moodily at photos try to figure out just what exactly I'm looking at and how to replicate it.


The engines and plumbing in place







The “modules”. These can still all be removed for more work. This picture here should be roughly "life size" scale:



In place in the beastie:




The “Office” area
Common consensus is that there was some kind of floor in these things. As this gives a fighting space height of about 4’ 6” they must have been sheer hell to work in for more than 5 minutes.
The “floor” is made from coffee stirrers kindly donated by a large and well known beef & cheeseburger type business that sounds Scottish but isn't.

I drew a very slight pattern on them with a dark brown felt tip pen then ran one of these “Furniture Repair” pens over them which stained them beautifully. A bit of flattened solder was then CA glued in place as the grab handles. All in all, I’m happy with the floor.
I plan to leave the two left hand planks removed to show the drive shafts etc beneath.










Tracks:

The difference between the kit tracks (top) and the Accurate Armour tracks:




I’ve glued some spacers on the track units below the track to lift it slightly as previous to this the track sat right on the sides of the track unit itself and just didn’t look right.



The new gap



This is as far as I've got in about 8 months. The day job has been a killer since about September.

Murdo , that is incredible work on the Whippet interiors. The wood certainly looks like the real deal, but perhaps a bit too shiney and pristine for armour - I'll assume you still plan to weather it.

regards,
Jack

btw, is anyone else receiving multiple email notifications to this thread even though there's no new posts - I've got over a dozen false ones!

Yup....not sure what's going on here...

Hi Murdo,

A cracking update, this is looking excellent - terrific work.

Al

Thanks guys,

Jack I'm still unsure which way this thing is headed. To display it with as many covers off as possible I was thinking of either having it getting a major refurb in a workshop or having a very "open" inspection by Very Top Brass.

Been looking for 1/32 WW1 Top Brass figgies, including women.

Btw, forgot to add:

This is the steering wheel type thing behind the levers which also seems to have some kind of throttle on it.







And yes, I'm also receiving multiple email notifications about each update.

Edo: Anytime, it's always good to see you here in the campaigns. Thanks for the link

Al: LOL! Pleas feel free to blame me, takes the focus off of you when your other half finds out about your new "projects"

Murdo: Good grief, you are keeping all this for a proper build feature aren't you? When I have some extra time in the hopefully not too distant future I would love to use your Whippet build as a guide for my own. And I understand about life cutting into your modeling time, it's been a killer for me since last October. Regarding your display options, there were several simple field cranes used in WWI so you should have plenty of customizable options.

Jack: Yes, I have received 47 alerts for this thread today.

Hi Jeremy,

"Good grief, you are keeping all this for a proper build feature aren't you?"

Erm... Hadn't even crossed my mind that anyone would want to copy what I think is really crude workmanship. The mind is willing but the skills just aren't there.

I still have all the pictures and info gleaned from the internet and it would be fairly easy to add a description of what I used and how I did it all.

To be honest, much of the stuff is "recycled" from various bits of rubbish ("Trash" to a Yank). e.g. The "bicycle" type chains powering the cooling fans (fans were cut from a beer can) on the engine are simply strips cut from old Hard Disk cables and painted in Revell Anthracite, drybrushed with Citadel Silver.

The different sizes of copper tubing (the bright shiny stuff in the pics) was bought from the Flower Arranging area in Hobby Craft, a UK hobby shop. I spent such a lot of time skulking around this area inspecting differnt metal types, and in a rather embarrased way trying not to be noticed (by other blokes) that I'm surprised I wasn't arrested.

Much of the rest is either plastic tubing, hex tubing or solder.

A lot of the hosing and plumbing is just wiring that was recycled from a dead PC Power supply, it keeps the shape you bend it to very well.

I tried to be really technical with the "Steering wheel" and solder the supporting side rods in place. The trouble with soldering lots of bits together in such a small area is that it all heats up (round about the same time) and all the previously soldered stuff just melts and falls off so I went back to using CA glue which isn't really all that strong for this kind of metal.