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O.K. So should I go with the regular or the "fine" primer?
Here is the one I am thinking about Jeff - Grey primer for Metal and Plastic #87042:
http://www.tamiyausa.com/product/item.php?product-id=87042I have not tried the fine version, but I would anticipate it would work well - my experience with Tamiya products has been good most every time. I will look for it myself as my supplies run low. For inquiring minds:
http://www.tamiyausa.com/product/item.php?product-id=87064A tip for quarterscale modeling from my notebook: best practice is to decant and spray with an airbrush. Thin it a little with Tamiya laquer thinner (this is a great thinner for their paint too)if you can get it, or use a milder laquer thinner if you can't (I have used "Sunshine" brand with good results). The Tamiya laquer thinner should be available from a good webtailer too.
If you use the can the second trick I have learned is to just tap the spray button for a fraction of a second as as you pass the can by the model - you want a really thin dust coat, not a wet coat, and the Tamiya spray heads really put out a lot of paint fast.
It is totally OK if the primer coat is translucent, as long as you have complete coverage. To avoid paint film build up, this is actually the look you are going for.
As an aside, if you want to buy hardware store primers to test, the Rustoleum brands advertising extended coverage have a finer grind to the pigment, and work OK for models, but are still not as fine as the Tamiya products. One thing you can get from Rustoleum is a red oxide primer - I have tested it (decanting and airbrushing) and it works well, and might be a good alternative for German armor in particular since it matches the color of the actual primer the Germans used, but is pretty dark so it will affect your color coats more than a grey primer will :-)
HTH,
Konrad
PS - Gary - your Spit is looking good. You should definitely put the wash on before the satin coat, actually you should put the decals on before the wash. If you spray on a thin coat of gloss the decals will go on better, and buy some setting solution (I use Solvaset on Tamiya decals with good results - use sparingly and let dry, repeat) to get them on tight. Another thin coat of gloss will help keep the wash from darkening the entire surface and help the capilary action draw it into the scribed lines. Check out threads on "Sludge Wash" for a neat technique as well.
Konrad
.So all my stuff is done online.I'm thinking some type of laq.based automotive primer might work
Jeff T.
