I got them in a local crafts shop, they were in the stationary corner. Who now´s what other people do with them,
but at 8mm Ø they near to perfect
. Just hope they don´t rip the paint off when I remove them
Paul
Campaigns
Where Armorama group builds can be discussed, organized, and updates posted.
Where Armorama group builds can be discussed, organized, and updates posted.
Hosted by Darren Baker, Richard S.
Jurassic Plastic Campaign
1721Lancers
Joined: March 21, 2012
KitMaker: 1,673 posts
Armorama: 1,640 posts
Posted: Sunday, March 03, 2013 - 06:41 AM UTC
Hi Sal,
I got them in a local crafts shop, they were in the stationary corner. Who now´s what other people do with them,
but at 8mm Ø they near to perfect . Just hope they don´t
rip the paint off when I remove them
Paul
I got them in a local crafts shop, they were in the stationary corner. Who now´s what other people do with them,
but at 8mm Ø they near to perfect
. Just hope they don´t rip the paint off when I remove them
Paul
tatbaqui
News Writer
#040
Joined: May 06, 2007
KitMaker: 2,713 posts
Armorama: 2,451 posts
Posted: Sunday, March 03, 2013 - 12:47 PM UTC
I think folks use them for file tabs -- leaves me to think why they came up with round ones, as I'm used to seeing rectangular stuff in different colors and sizes.
At the time I was looking for 6mm discs (as that was advice I read), but couldn't find one locally. The closest I can find was 10mm, so I just went for a DIY masking option.
Paul B, 8mm still looks big for my tastes -- however I believe it's best appraised once the discs are taken off.
Cheers,
Tat
At the time I was looking for 6mm discs (as that was advice I read), but couldn't find one locally. The closest I can find was 10mm, so I just went for a DIY masking option.
Paul B, 8mm still looks big for my tastes -- however I believe it's best appraised once the discs are taken off.
Cheers,
Tat
Bluestab
Joined: December 03, 2009
KitMaker: 2,160 posts
Armorama: 1,906 posts
Posted: Sunday, March 03, 2013 - 05:14 PM UTC
Paul B, the stickers are labels for filing and stuff like that. I've seen people use them for price stickers. And they come in a variety of colors. We used to use them for a variety of things at work.
Nice find. I never thought about model uses for them.
Nice find. I never thought about model uses for them.
1721Lancers
Joined: March 21, 2012
KitMaker: 1,673 posts
Armorama: 1,640 posts
Posted: Monday, March 04, 2013 - 04:22 AM UTC
Hi there,
well here we go then:
Before-
After-
Would I do it again
No, it´s easy getting the dots on, but getting the buggers off again is something else 
. The paint must of soaked through some of them, which made the discs tear through the middle. This leaves the sticky side on the tank and the glossy side on the knife or tweezers . Maybe I should of stuck to enamel
paints. Oh well that means I must do it again to find out if that works 
.
I´m going have a to get my sanity back.
Paul
well here we go then:
Before-
After-
Would I do it again
No, it´s easy getting the dots on, but getting the buggers off again is something else . The paint must of soaked through some of them, which made the discs tear through the middle. This leaves the sticky side on the tank and the glossy side on the knife or tweezers . Maybe I should of stuck to enamel paints. Oh well that means I must do it again to find out if that works
.I´m going have a
to get my sanity back. Paul
Shermania
Joined: January 30, 2013
KitMaker: 537 posts
Armorama: 531 posts
Posted: Monday, March 04, 2013 - 09:43 AM UTC
Quoted Text
Hi there,
well here we go then:
Before-
After-
Would I do it again
paints. Oh well that means I must do it again to find out if that works
I´m going have a
Paul
Paul, would some clear gloss (future) make it harder for the stickers to stick since it is not flat?
ltb073
Joined: March 08, 2010
KitMaker: 3,662 posts
Armorama: 3,078 posts
Posted: Monday, March 04, 2013 - 09:55 AM UTC
Quoted Text
Would I do it again
paints. Oh well that means I must do it again to find out if that works
I´m going have a
Paul
Wooooo there Paul you deserve a few cold ones
Hope the filters and washes blend that in some
Shermania
Joined: January 30, 2013
KitMaker: 537 posts
Armorama: 531 posts
Posted: Monday, March 04, 2013 - 09:56 AM UTC
A little progress on DML M4A4 #6035 from 1995. I had a good 3 1/2 hours to work on her last night. This build is going faster than the DML #6121 VC firefly I'm doing for the D-Day campaign. They are practically the same kit with some differences in the turrets and stowage items. The #6121 represents the first time I've built a DML sherman of this type since the late 1990s. My nephew got to shoot a couple of those with his BB gun as I was never able to fit the tracks on them. But not this time, this time I will conquer those damn tracks! I got to get myself mentally prepared for those. Anyways, this one's been moved to the front of the line given the deadline for this campaign.
I got to get myself mentally prepared for those. Anyways, this one's been moved to the front of the line given the deadline for this campaign.tatbaqui
News Writer#040
Joined: May 06, 2007
KitMaker: 2,713 posts
Armorama: 2,451 posts
Posted: Monday, March 04, 2013 - 12:07 PM UTC
Hi Paul. B,
From the pics shown, the seepage doesn't look that bad. You still have the splinters that can be used to cover up, plus as Sal mentioned, the filters / washes phase to do.
Can't see how much of the adhesive / sticky stuff got stuck on -- and the only way I know how to take it off is some baby oil, though I haven't tried it on a painted surface. But hey, maybe you can try picking them off with Blu-Tack (?) -- its done wonders for me when picking off small, odd bits from builds ai work on.
Cheers,
Tat
From the pics shown, the seepage doesn't look that bad. You still have the splinters that can be used to cover up, plus as Sal mentioned, the filters / washes phase to do.
Can't see how much of the adhesive / sticky stuff got stuck on -- and the only way I know how to take it off is some baby oil, though I haven't tried it on a painted surface. But hey, maybe you can try picking them off with Blu-Tack (?) -- its done wonders for me when picking off small, odd bits from builds ai work on.
Cheers,
Tat
SGTJKJ
#041
Joined: July 20, 2006
KitMaker: 10,069 posts
Armorama: 4,677 posts
Posted: Tuesday, March 05, 2013 - 08:39 AM UTC
Looks great from the pictures, Paul. Although it sounds like it was somewhat of a hassle. As Sal points out, have a cold one and relax. You deserve it. 
I have decided what to do for this campaign. The old Matchbox Havoc. The nose art is super cool, so I really hope the decals hold up despite their age.
More to follow soon
I have decided what to do for this campaign. The old Matchbox Havoc. The nose art is super cool, so I really hope the decals hold up despite their age.
More to follow soon
PantherF
Joined: June 10, 2005
KitMaker: 6,188 posts
Armorama: 5,960 posts
Posted: Tuesday, March 05, 2013 - 09:29 AM UTC
If it were me, I would wipe them off and shoot them with that decal clear that's out. That way the decals would stay intact.
JAT
~ Jeff
JAT
~ Jeff
SGTJKJ
#041
Joined: July 20, 2006
KitMaker: 10,069 posts
Armorama: 4,677 posts
Posted: Tuesday, March 05, 2013 - 10:11 AM UTC
Thanks for the tip, Jeff. I will test one of the decals first from the other option and see how the decal reacts.
I have had luck with old matchbox decals before.
I have had luck with old matchbox decals before.
North4003
Joined: August 01, 2012
KitMaker: 960 posts
Armorama: 95 posts
Posted: Tuesday, March 05, 2013 - 04:16 PM UTC
For this campaign I'll build the vintage Hawker Seahawk, originally a Frog release during the 1950's.
1721Lancers
Joined: March 21, 2012
KitMaker: 1,673 posts
Armorama: 1,640 posts
Posted: Wednesday, March 06, 2013 - 03:27 AM UTC
Hi Jesper and Brent,
welcome to the campaign, and nice choices there from you both. If the need be you can use new decals, no probs with that what so ever
Thanks for the complimments to date guys.
@ Pedro: if I do this again I´ll try some gloss, might work
@ Sal: I sure hope so too, but not much can go wrong now
it´s all downhill from here
@ Tat: Yes I did the bluetack thing first and for the real
hard bits I got a piece of double sided tape, took the tough stickyness off by sticking it to other things first and that helped a lot.
Paul
welcome to the campaign, and nice choices there from you both. If the need be you can use new decals, no probs with that what so ever
Thanks for the complimments to date guys.
@ Pedro: if I do this again I´ll try some gloss, might work
@ Sal: I sure hope so too, but not much can go wrong now
it´s all downhill from here
@ Tat: Yes I did the bluetack thing first and for the real
hard bits I got a piece of double sided tape, took the tough stickyness off by sticking it to other things first and that helped a lot.
Paul
andyman
Joined: October 11, 2002
KitMaker: 142 posts
Armorama: 134 posts
Posted: Wednesday, March 06, 2013 - 09:52 AM UTC
Hello fellow campaigners,
This is my finished SAS jeep. It was built out of the box with the exception of the storage rack which was made out of paper card stock for the jerry cans and the straps for the packs and cantees. I reworked the 50cal a little cutting in the handles I add from the Tamiya M3A2 Halftrack the ammo box for the 50cal and the cammo net, I also added a bottle of wine from the Tamiya's Cromwell. I used Tamiya's Dark Yellow XF60 for the jeep and a mix of desert yellow XF59 and Buff XF57 for the base. Pin wash with burnt umber oil and mig dry mud pigment.
This is my finished SAS jeep. It was built out of the box with the exception of the storage rack which was made out of paper card stock for the jerry cans and the straps for the packs and cantees. I reworked the 50cal a little cutting in the handles I add from the Tamiya M3A2 Halftrack the ammo box for the 50cal and the cammo net, I also added a bottle of wine from the Tamiya's Cromwell. I used Tamiya's Dark Yellow XF60 for the jeep and a mix of desert yellow XF59 and Buff XF57 for the base. Pin wash with burnt umber oil and mig dry mud pigment.
Shermania
Joined: January 30, 2013
KitMaker: 537 posts
Armorama: 531 posts
Posted: Wednesday, March 06, 2013 - 10:03 AM UTC
Quoted Text
Hello fellow campaigners,
This is my finished SAS jeep. It was built out of the box with the exception of the storage rack which was made out of paper card stock for the jerry cans and the straps for the packs and cantees. I reworked the 50cal a little cutting in the handles I add from the Tamiya M3A2 Halftrack the ammo box for the 50cal and the cammo net, I also added a bottle of wine from the Tamiya's Cromwell. I used Tamiya's Dark Yellow XF60 for the jeep and a mix of desert yellow XF59 and Buff XF57 for the base. Pin wash with burnt umber oil and mig dry mud pigment.
Andrew, that is super nice, so clean, very cool little vignette.
Shermania
Joined: January 30, 2013
KitMaker: 537 posts
Armorama: 531 posts
Posted: Wednesday, March 06, 2013 - 10:48 AM UTC
A small update, spent most of last night building and then testing a new set of track building jigs based on Steve Zaloga's book. They work great, kept the track straight and will definitely pay off as I will end up building these tracks much faster this way. Also got the suspension done on both sides. In case your wondering why part of the sprockets are green. It's because one set of the DML sprockets was mishappen and bent. The old italeri version where the only spares I had. They are even older than the DML ones and I've heard that the dml where just a copy of the Italeri to begin with. They build the same way and fit on the drums no problem. I put them on the outside so both sides would be uniform and becuase the bolt/nut detail on them was better than on the newer DML pieces. Here's the pic:
North4003
Joined: August 01, 2012
KitMaker: 960 posts
Armorama: 95 posts
Posted: Wednesday, March 06, 2013 - 04:31 PM UTC
As I begin this campaign I picture some shady character standing in an alley in the seedy part of town. 'Pssst, hey you; wanna buy a plastic airplane kit?' Ah, yea, I guess so I say. And so the adventure in modeling a paleolithic kit from the 1950s' begins. Flash, yes it has it and a pretty good for the era raised panel lines and rivets, lots of them. If this is a Jurassic Plastic Campaign the my humble contribution is from an even earlier era, the Silurian. If the Jurassic kits represent the Allosaurus dinosaurs then my kit is a trilobite of the model world.
After about an hours worth of work it is at this stage.
After about an hours worth of work it is at this stage.
1721Lancers
Joined: March 21, 2012
KitMaker: 1,673 posts
Armorama: 1,640 posts
Posted: Thursday, March 07, 2013 - 03:19 AM UTC
Quoted Text
As I begin this campaign I picture some shady character standing in an alley in the seedy part of town. 'Pssst, hey you; wanna buy a plastic airplane kit?' Ah, yea, I guess so I say. And so the adventure in modeling a paleolithic kit from the 1950s' begins. Flash, yes it has it and a pretty good for the era raised panel lines and rivets, lots of them. If this is a Jurassic Plastic Campaign the my humble contribution is from an even earlier era, the Silurian. If the Jurassic kits represent the Allosaurus dinosaurs then my kit is a trilobite of the model world.
cool start Brent.@ Pedro: told you all would be well
. Now kick that demon butt @ Andrew: nice build. Looks cool and figures lokk good too
Paul
Shermania
Joined: January 30, 2013
KitMaker: 537 posts
Armorama: 531 posts
Posted: Thursday, March 07, 2013 - 03:47 AM UTC
Quoted Text
Quoted TextAs I begin this campaign I picture some shady character standing in an alley in the seedy part of town. 'Pssst, hey you; wanna buy a plastic airplane kit?' Ah, yea, I guess so I say. And so the adventure in modeling a paleolithic kit from the 1950s' begins. Flash, yes it has it and a pretty good for the era raised panel lines and rivets, lots of them. If this is a Jurassic Plastic Campaign the my humble contribution is from an even earlier era, the Silurian. If the Jurassic kits represent the Allosaurus dinosaurs then my kit is a trilobite of the model world.
@ Pedro: told you all would be well
@ Andrew: nice build. Looks cool and figures lokk good too
Paul
Paul, I knew there was another reason why I love this hobby so much. It must be the only thing I can do better now than I could 20 years ago
from studying the fit issue with these tracks it has become clear to me that the big issue with these tracks is that the pegs on the pads are smaller than the holes in the end connectors, this causes potential issues with the end connectors not staying straight or allowing the track to be glued in an incorrect way. Apparently all that can be remedied with track building jigs. This is proving to be an unworthy demon afterall. Last night I built the first side and I'm loving the way they look on the tank. On the positive side, I have a box full of these link to link tracks that I never used. So now they are going to get dusted off and put on some shermans. I'm glad I never got rid of them. There is a certain quality to link to link that cannot be reproduced with rubber band tracks. Here is a picture.
andyman
Joined: October 11, 2002
KitMaker: 142 posts
Armorama: 134 posts
Posted: Thursday, March 07, 2013 - 04:41 AM UTC
I agree with you Padro they look better I did a M4A3E8 for the Korean War Campaign and I had a real tough time with them but they came out good. I was ready to give up and get aftermarket tracks.
Andy
Andy
North4003
Joined: August 01, 2012
KitMaker: 960 posts
Armorama: 95 posts
Posted: Thursday, March 07, 2013 - 10:17 AM UTC
My Sea Hawk trilobite has entered the chrysalis stage; just a wee bit of filler and a little bit of sanding. Amazingly, the underside of the wings were a perfect fit. On the plus side, the decals in this release are very good; their are two options.
Shermania
Joined: January 30, 2013
KitMaker: 537 posts
Armorama: 531 posts
Posted: Friday, March 08, 2013 - 03:14 AM UTC
Quoted Text
I agree with you Padro they look better I did a M4A3E8 for the Korean War Campaign and I had a real tough time with them but they came out good. I was ready to give up and get aftermarket tracks.
Andy
Hi Andy, yeah, I think it's the way that light comes off of them. Real tracks links have a flate face so when they go around the idler and sprocket they reflect light differently from link to link. Even the best rubber tracks (DS) cannot reproduce this effect because those links actually do bend slightly around unlike the real thing. Just a theory but I've been thinking that subtle little effect gets picked up by the eye and makes the tracks look heavier and more convincing when they are link to link.
I'd like to add, dragon did a great job reproducing the face detail on these t-62 links like 20 years ago! I've seen a bunch of different brands mess these up. Bronco wishes their new t-62 looked this good.
Bluestab
Joined: December 03, 2009
KitMaker: 2,160 posts
Armorama: 1,906 posts
Posted: Friday, March 08, 2013 - 08:50 AM UTC
I went ahead and started on the second Jurasssic kit...Tamiya's old Panzer II ausf. F.
The kit is literally as old as I am. It's pretty straight-forward. I've built this kit several times. It really is a weekend build. I had pulled it out the other night with the intention of cleaning up some of the parts and some other prep work. The next thing I know, it's assembled and ready for paint.
Rear of the hull. Note the motorization holes have been covered over using filler putty.
And now the front. Basically the front tow brackets. The tape on the hull is to back the motorization holes for the filler.
The wheels, idlers, and drive sprockets. The kit is showing some age but one thing I noticed was the holes for the wheels were slightly off-center.
Turret. I left the 2cm and MG barrels off to avoid breakage. This will be an ausf. F on the Eastern Front so no turret box. I left the cupola assembly seperate for ease of painting.
Upper hull front. Not alot here. I left the pioneer tools off for painting. Tamiya chose to mold the ax on.
Upper hull rear. Not alot here either.
And that's it...she's ready for paint. I'll probably shoot the base coat this weekend. Then, start work on the winter camo. The kit's decals are in pretty bad shape. I hadn't planned on using them. I have some in the spares that are old and should work.
The kit is literally as old as I am. It's pretty straight-forward. I've built this kit several times. It really is a weekend build. I had pulled it out the other night with the intention of cleaning up some of the parts and some other prep work. The next thing I know, it's assembled and ready for paint.
Rear of the hull. Note the motorization holes have been covered over using filler putty.
And now the front. Basically the front tow brackets. The tape on the hull is to back the motorization holes for the filler.
The wheels, idlers, and drive sprockets. The kit is showing some age but one thing I noticed was the holes for the wheels were slightly off-center.
Turret. I left the 2cm and MG barrels off to avoid breakage. This will be an ausf. F on the Eastern Front so no turret box. I left the cupola assembly seperate for ease of painting.
Upper hull front. Not alot here. I left the pioneer tools off for painting. Tamiya chose to mold the ax on.
Upper hull rear. Not alot here either.
And that's it...she's ready for paint. I'll probably shoot the base coat this weekend. Then, start work on the winter camo. The kit's decals are in pretty bad shape. I hadn't planned on using them. I have some in the spares that are old and should work.
Shermania
Joined: January 30, 2013
KitMaker: 537 posts
Armorama: 531 posts
Posted: Saturday, March 09, 2013 - 05:56 AM UTC
Another small update on DML #6035 M4A4:
Tracks are done, would've had them done on Thursday but didn't get any bench time that night. So one 3 hr session building the jigs and testing them, then two 2 hour sessions working on each side cleaning and construction so from here on out I will try to build these in about 3-4 hours total time. I love the way they look on the tank so I'm definitely motivated to use the whole batch that I have in a big box, last night I counted them and it turns out I have about 15 sets of these types of tracks!!! really looking forward to using them now.
Tracks are done, would've had them done on Thursday but didn't get any bench time that night. So one 3 hr session building the jigs and testing them, then two 2 hour sessions working on each side cleaning and construction so from here on out I will try to build these in about 3-4 hours total time. I love the way they look on the tank so I'm definitely motivated to use the whole batch that I have in a big box, last night I counted them and it turns out I have about 15 sets of these types of tracks!!! really looking forward to using them now.
Shermania
Joined: January 30, 2013
KitMaker: 537 posts
Armorama: 531 posts
Posted: Saturday, March 09, 2013 - 06:00 AM UTC
With the jigs based on Steve Zaloga's design, the tracks are actually, dare I say, easy to build. All this time I've been afraid to mess with these again and it was really not such a big deal with the proper tools and know how.
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